Has anyone ever attended the Palio in Siena? We will be there that week and would like to book grandstand tickets. We don't need the ticket and accommodation packages, but a package that included a contrada meal would be a great option. Can anyone recommend the best source for Palio tickets? ( I know we could view the race from the square for free, but I'm at the stage in life where that option doesn't hold much appeal).
Posted by
52 posts
We were just in Tuscany this month while the Palio was taking place. I had the same questions as you, and I could not get any good responses on here. When I searched online, most companies would package in accommodations with the ticket and it was very pricey. I would recommend doing some thorough searches online for operators who can book you a ticket only.
FWIW, we ended up going to Siena 2 days before the official August Palio to watch one of the practice races at 9am in the Campo. This was fun for us and our kids and did not involve huge crowds, and parking was easy when we arrived at 815am. Then we still had all day to sightsee Siena without too much madness.
We watched the official Palio on tv later that week and I have to say that it was the most exciting horse race that any of us had ever seen. So much drama!
Also be aware that although the race doesn’t start on time. It takes a long time to line up the horses in order - and they end up fighting with each other (the horses) and then the jockeys need to exit the starting line and walk the horses around a bit to calm them down - and then try to line up in order again. Once they are all in order, the final horse in the line up enters, the rope drops, and the race is off. It can be a lot of waiting around. But if you have a seat in the grandstand then at least you are off your feet.
Good luck. Even the trial race and then the offices one on tv are life long memories for myself and my kids.
Posted by
Florida, USA
250 posts
We were at this year's July Palio. It is a very exciting time to be in Siena. If you are sure you will there, I strongly suggest you start searching for tickets as soon as possible. We have friends living in Siena and started our search last September. In November we were notified two tickets were available in the grandstands at a cost of 600 euro each. We decided that was just too much and planned to watch the race on TV. When we arrived in Siena in late May and visited our favorite panini shop in the Campo, they told us they had tickets. We learned that each section of the grandstand, except for those in front of City Hall, is privately owned, usually by the merchant who owns the shop where the grandstand is located. We were able to purchase tickets for 300 euro each. The seats were very uncomfortable, and it was hot, but for us it was a once in a lifetime experience. Check with the hotel where you are staying or the owner of your accommodation to see if they can help with finding tickets both for the Palio and for a contrada dinner.
Also recommend visiting a Contrada Museum. The Civetta (Owl) Contrada is very interesting and located near the Campo. Here are a couple of links that might help you.
https://www.ilpalio.org/domande.htm (You can right click your mouse for translation in English.)
This site is written by a travel writer and is a good description of the Palio.
https://www.thegeographicalcure.com/post/guide-to-the-palio-of-siena
Posted by
OP
20 posts
Thank you both for the advice. We will be renting an apartment just outside Siena for the week so it's good to know that the trail races are worth checking out. I'll ask our apartment owner for advice as well. We will be staying within the boundaries of the Shell contrada so it would be ideal to have a dinner there if they are in that race. I'll check out those links as well.
Posted by
Firenze, Italy
1721 posts
The actual race usually starts around 8pm. The moment the race starts is called "la mossa" and the referee is "il mossiere". The problem is this is not modern racing, it is medieval racing, so everybody expects the race to be rigged. Jockeys do not know in which order they are set for la mossa till the mossiere reads it for the first try; this is the moment jockeys can discuss how the race can be rigged; sometimes big money is promised. All horses have to stand in their prescribed order between two ropes, but the last one will start already galloping ("di rincorsa"), so actually it is the last horse that gives the start (the mossiere releases the front rope as the rincorsa horse is arriving). Lining up the other horses may be difficult as horses and jockeys are unruly, and the rincorsa jockey can sabotage agreements by choosing a good or bad moment for starting.
The mossiere (not an enviable job) has no disciplinary powers no matter how unruly get the horses, but has a big power as he can recall a bad start or deem good a doubtful start, so a jockey should better not try the mossiere's patience too much.
Sometimes the mossa can be accomplished in a relatively short time, but sometimes it becomes so muddled that night falls and the race has to be deferred to the next day.
EDIT: I forgot that as a soccer referee has a whistle to stop the game, the mossiere can recall a false start by shooting a firecracker.
Posted by
OP
20 posts
The more I research, the more it sounds like it's worth the money to get a seat for the race!
Posted by
Firenze, Italy
1721 posts
The very last palio, one week ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqCE7L8RJgk
It looks to me the mossiere condoned a bad mossa (the rincorsa horse made a very bad move, but if the mossiere is too nitpicky the race would never be run), two times the front runner made a wrong turn, and in the end a horse who had lost its jockey ("cavallo scosso") won the race. This sequence has been run on Siena's local tvs and commented for hours after the race.
Posted by
Wyckoff, NJ, USA
7936 posts
Clearly if you have a seat in a business establishment's grandstand, you have access to their rest rooms. I'd like to hear from attendees to what extent it was like Times Square on New Years Eve: You simply do not have the option of moving around or even leaving for eight hours or more? I've also read that it sells out weeks in advance.
Posted by
Florida, USA
250 posts
Hello Tim. That is not the case. I can only speak for the area we were in (San Martino corner), but the entrance to the grandstands were from the track. So, once the events begin you are stuck in your seat. We were there for just over 3 hours and were told to plan accordingly.
Deannelamb the price for it grandstand is set by the owner of the stand. The city charges the owner a set fee per seat, but the owner may ask whatever price they chose. That is why the ticket prices vary so much. All that being said if you are able to afford it as I have said it was a once in a lifetime event.