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Palermo

Posted by (Midwest) on

I'm just starting to think about Italy for next year. At the end of the trip, I'm aiming for 7 nights in Sicily (flying from Rome). I've been to Italy but not Sicily. My broad plan is 3-4 nights on the east side of the island, seeing Etna, Syracuse, and other towns on that side. I'd assume I'd fly into Catania. Then the remaining 3-4 nights on the other side, seeing Palermo and Segesta, flying home from Palermo. I'd have a car for most of this. As I said, it's broad strokes right now. I will be with husband and kids (elementary school age boys).

My question now is around Palermo. There is a lot I want to see in the city (Norman Palace, several churches, Monreale, markets), but I'm not sure I want to stay in the city. I will have a car, which I assume I will park somewhere on the outskirts, because if Palermo is anything like Rome or Naples, I have no interest in driving in it. What I'm looking for is:

-possibly a nice town to stay in with easy access to Palermo. I would also like to take a half-day to Segesta from there (driving).

-OR thoughts on staying in Palermo itself. I could stay in the city for 2 nights right before leaving. I like cities, and in some ways like the idea of being immersed in the atmosphere, plus I've always found that staying in town gives you experiences like early morning markets, later evening strolls, sunrise, sunset...that I tend to miss on day trips. But I've heard it's kind of intense and so am not sure. Would anyone advise this, and if so I'd love suggestions for neighborhoods.

THANKS!

Posted by
11613 posts

I like the area around Teatro Massimo. Like you, I love cities and I love Palermo!

You might want to see Segesta on your way to Palermo, ditch the car and spend your two nights in Palermo. The bus to Monreale is easy, the bus stop is down a short flight of stairs in a supermarket piazza/parking lot, go up the stairs and you are on the main street of the town.

If you have time for Cefalu, I recommend it highly (one hour by train from Palermo).

Posted by
339 posts

I agree with ditching the car before Palermo. It is often quicker to walk than try to navigate by car and parking is the worse I have ever seen. Bus to Monreale worked very well for us.

Posted by
15165 posts

Just stay in Palermo the last one or two nights before flying home (or at the very beginning after arrival). A full day and a half is enough for Palermo and Monreale.

Don't have the car while in Palermo. If you do Palermo at the beginning upon arrival, rent the car after you have done visiting the city. If you do Palermo at the tail end of your trip, return the car upon arrival in Palermo.

Between the two options I would choose to do Palermo upon arrival and rent the car at the end of the city visit from a downtown rental office, since it's cheaper than picking up the rental car at the airport. At the end of your trip you would return the car at the airport (no extra charge) and fly away.

If you fly into CTA and fly out of PMO, the only option is to do Palermo at the end of your trip.

Posted by
11294 posts

I was in Sicily in April and May 2014 (11 nights), seeing many of the places you want to see. My VERY detailed trip report is here, with lots of tips that should help you: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/sicily-palermo-caltanisetta-siracusa-taormina

I agree with the others - stay in Palermo without a car. As you'll see in my report, we were prepared to find Palermo to be like Naples on crack, but found it to be more like a slightly dilapidated Rome, and not nearly as intense as we thought it would be (or as Naples is). If you stay at our B&B, or in this neighborhood, you won't find Palermo stressful at all.

Flying into Palermo and out of Catania, or vice versa, is definitely the way to go. As you'll see from my report, picking up a car in Palermo and leaving town was not hard. Returning at Catania Airport was definitely more confusing (but not horrible once we found out where to do it).

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