Out of shape in the Cinque Terre

Forget going the Cinque Terre hike out of Monterosso as it begins with a huge amount of steep steps up the hillside. Take the train to the last viillage, Riomaggiore, and walk the flat section of the trail there.

It's been about 10 years since I visited the Cinque Terre, but my recollection is that other than right by the sea, most all of Monterosso is up hill to some degree or another......some very, very much up a hill.

Are you staying in a hotel close to the sea?

And, others will chime in, I'm sure, but even to get to/fro the train (if that's how you are arriving) will involve some walking up/down the hill.

If the ferries are running (if the seas are not rough), she would probably enjoy taking the ferry from village to village and concentrate walking in the flatter areas of the villages close to the sea. But, there is no way (as you probably know) would you want her to tackle the trail that connects all five villages.

The Via del'Amore connects the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola, and best I can recall, it starts out pretty flat, but even though it is the easiest trail that connects villages, seems there was still some uphill climbing or stairs involved. Others who have visited more frequently can advise. But, there is no reason you/she could not just turn back when you hit a spot that looks too challenging on that segment.

The Via del'Amore has been closed since the Great Mud Slide of 2011. Only a short portion has re-opened. This won't be clear everywhere you look, so see http://savevernazza.com/traveladvisortrailupdates/.

My strategy for your sister or myself would be to stick to walks within or just above a town, rather than setting out to connect to towns and possible getting "stuck" in the middle. Connect the towns by boat or train, instead. Rick's guidebook and/or local hoteliers and tourist offices give you some notes about town walks such as the vineyard walk in Manarola and the lemon walk in Monterosso. There are also some local shuttle buses heading to uphill parking lots and trailheads that you could take uphill, if you only want to walk downhill.

If you take the boat as far as Porto Venere (not one of the five towns and not served by train), that town is pretty but flatter, with a pretty gentle series of switchbacks leading to its cliff-top church and castle.

The Via del'Amore (between Riomaggiore and Manarola) would be an excellent, fairly easy hike for someone not in great shape - if the Via del'Amore were open to hikers now. Unfortunately, it's been closed since a big slide in 2011. The main trail between Manarola and Corniglia is closed right now, too.

I love the CInque Terre, but I fear it has become so overhyped out of proportion to the value of the experience that people are visiting without even considering whether it's worth it for them (or their families). Although the towns are lovely (I have a picture of Riomaggiore on my wall at home), to me, the biggest attraction of the Cinque Terre is the hiking - and if you aren't going to hike, consider one of the other beautiful Italian Riviera destinations instead (e.g. Camogli, Rapallo, maybe Santa Margherita Ligure). I understand there's a fairly easy trail between Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino, for example (I didn't hike it) and you can take a bus or boat to return.

You pay a premium to stay in the Cinque Terre largely because of the hype. It might be worth the premium if you plan to hike.

The "main" trail that connects the villages gets more flat as you go south. Unfortunately, the section that is more of a stroll, the Via del'Amore, is closed and unlikely to reopen this year. Other than Monterosso, these villages are built on a hillside and even walking around town can be quite hilly.

I agree with the other writers about the trails. In Monterosso, you may get around the old and new parts fairly easily although there is a hill to walk up and down connecting them through the tunnel. The other towns require steep walking up the streets . In Corniglia the town is not at the sea but high up. You may take a shuttle to the top and walk around the town and that is lovely.

Is Cinque Terre your first stop or will you have been traveling for a while before you get there? I ask because we find we get in better shape as the trip progresses. Does she have an injury or is older? If not then she may surprise you. I was not in the best shape when we went but it was so beautiful that I really pushed myself to go up hills to see the view, to see what was around the corner, because I was in Cinque Terre. I also saw people older and bigger than me walking, climbing and they inspired me (if they can do it...so can I). There is nothing wrong with stopping to recover with a gelato or a spritz and a snack, then pushing on. I would plan on doing what you want but at a slower pace. Ask her to invest in a good pair of shoes, this will make a big difference. I am not big on walking just to walk, but travel walking is so much different, much more exciting and stimulating that I forget I am walking!!

I would get an all day pass on the ferries and take them between the towns. When you get into a town, you can then decide if you want to hike to the hills above the town to get a great picture, you can without investing that much energy.

As Laura mentioned, Rick Steves' guide has self-guided tours of each little town. There is some uphill walking involved, but it is not like hiking on the trails. Perhaps you can encourage her to get out and walk a mile each day until your trip so she is prepared for not only the Cinque Terre, but the overall exertion of foreign travel.

Or consider staying in Levanto. You can hike and your sister can visit the beach, shops, etc.

What about a half day of kayaking? I rented a kayak and had a blast on the water, set your own pace and only go as far as you want. Beautiful views from the water!

Any way you can coax your sister into training up for this trip? The rewards would be quite substantial - getting in shape by itself is a great goal to strive for. It would be a shame to go to the Cinque Terre and avoid hiking.

Gosh, thanks everyone for the info. Right now I have pending reservations for the Hotel Villa Steno in Monterosso. My sister does love to hang out at the beach; would Monterosso be a good place for her to chill while I do a little hiking?

Hotel Villa Steno is where we stayed when I was in Monterosso on the RS tour. Very nice! Air conditioned, right at the beach, excellent breakfast, super friendly staff. I think you made a perfect choice. While the beach there is small, it is clean and has plenty of space to lay out and just soak up the sun.

I had to edit my post. We stayed at Hotel Pasquale which is on ground level right after you exit the tunnel from new part of town to old. Great place

Someone help me out.

When we were on our Heart of Italy Tour with Rick Steves' company several years ago, we stayed at the Hotel Villa Steno. It was an uphill walk to the hotel (and if I am remembering correctly, some steep stairs once we got up the hill). The staff, views, breakfast, etc. were all lovely, and we would make the same choice if returning. At the time we were there, the Hotel Villa Steno had a sister hotel that was down by the water/beach that operated under a different name.

Since Terri has mentioned her sister does not like walking uphill, I am wondering if perhaps the Hotel Villa Steno's sister hotel (at the waterside/beach) which used to operate under a different name now also operates under the same name as the Hotel Villa Steno. Or, maybe they no longer have that second hotel?

The waterside hotel did not have the steep uphill walk to reach the hotel. Terri, perhaps, your reservation is for a room in that building?

We were not bothered by the walk uphill, and we absolutely loved the view from our balcony (especially in the morning as the sun rose and the village began to wake up). One evening we also took pizza back to our balcony and enjoyed that with a glass of wine, soaking in the fabulous view. But, just thinking about your sister's preference for minimal uphill walking.

Our RS tour group was divided between the two hotels, and those who stayed at both hotels were equally pleased. The group's pesto-making demonstration was held in the dining area of the seaside hotel building.

Perhaps everything has changed since we visited (maybe due to the bad flood that happened since then), but I'd like to know the situation, just so I am current (if friends ask for hotel advice in the future). Does Hotel Villa Steno still have the second hotel? If so, under what name does it now operate? I think (but I may not be remembering correctly), it was something like Albergo (maybe) and I remember huge green shutters.

Maggie-you may be thinking Hotel Pasquale.

Yes, Carolyn, you are right....that's the one I was thinking of.

If that hotel is still a sister hotel of Hotel Villa Steno, that might be a better option for Terri's sister (to avoid the uphill climb she wants to avoid). But, if they are not still a sister hotel, then due-diligence needed re: current reviews. Hotel Villa Steno enjoys an excellent reputation (as did their sister hotel at the time I visited many years ago).

I'm a bit late getting into the discussion, but a few additional points to mention.....

" Very nice! Air conditioned, right at the beach, excellent breakfast, super friendly staff."

Just to clarify, Hotel Villa Steno is not right at the beach, but uphill a short distance. As some have mentioned in previous replies, their "sister" hotel (owned by the same family) is Hotel Pasquale and that is right by the beach. Last time I checked, Villa Steno and Pasquale were the #1 and #2 rated hotels in Monterosso. You were fortunate to get a booking at Villa Steno, so I'd suggest hanging onto it. That's where I always stay, and it's absolutely one of my favourite hotels in all of Europe!

A few things to mention about Villa Steno. When you first arrive, I'd suggest taking a Taxi from the station, and also when you leave. I have walked from the station to the hotel with luggage, but a Taxi is so much easier. The first part of the uphill walk on Via Roma is not too steep, so it's not a strenuous walk. However the upper end next to the gate where the hotel driveway is located, is more steep. Once you've checked in, there's a "short cut" down to Via Roma through the hotel garden which has some stairs, but it's not difficult or strenuous; just take your time. If you go out at night, I'd suggest throwing a small flashlight in your pocket as part of the stairway leading from the street isn't well lighted. Your card key from the hotel will allow you to access the gate.

Another point to clarify.....

"Take the train to the last viillage, Riomaggiore, and walk the flat section of the trail there."

As mentioned in previous replies, the Via dell' Amore has been closed since 24 September 2012, following a huge rock slide which pushed four Australian tourists over a cliff (fortunately they were rescued). It is NOT going to reopen this year, so walking the "flat section" is not going to happen! There is a short section open at the Manarola end as far as the Bar (which is open during tourist season and serves beverages and food), but just beyond the Bar visitors will encounter this. When I was there last fall, I was amazed at how many people were heading for the trail, totally unaware of the long term closure. Obviously they aren't users of the Rick Steves forum!!!

The trail segment from Manarola to Corniglia is also closed, and has been for several years. The reason for the closure is quite apparent, and it looks like it will be a major undertaking to clear the slide. As usual, the delay can probably be attributed at least partially to lack of funds to get the work done.

As others have mentioned, it would be a good idea for your sister to do some "conditioning" prior to the trip as she'll likely be walking a lot more in Europe than she does at home. The walk from the "new town" to the "old town" in Monterosso should be quite tolerable, as it's mostly flat. Just take your time and walk at a pace she's comfortable with. There are some stairs to get up to the rail platforms in the Monterosso station, and also at the other stations.

Using the trains is the easiest way to get between the five towns, but you could also use the Ferries (weather permitting), including taking a day trip to Porto Venere. All of the towns have some uphill sections and stairs to deal with.

Hope this helps..... Buon Viaggio!