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Orvieto & Civita

In May, we (family of four - two children in their late teens) will be spending a few days in Montepulciano, returning our rental car in Orvieto, and then taking the train to Rome.

Originally, we were meant to spend 4 nights in Montepulciano, but have chosen to possibly spend 3 instead. Even though we're not huge fans of one-night stays, we keep hearing about Orvieto and I've been reading that entire chapter in the RS book. So we're undecided as to whether we should spend that one night in Orvieto or in Civita.

  1. Is parking difficult if we decide on Civita?
  2. Our train from Oriveto to Rome leaves in the early afternoon of the next day. That should give us plenty of time, right?
  3. Civita would be such a unique experience, I'm sure. The pictures look gorgeous and the advantage of spending the night there are that the crowds will dissipate, correct? (Sorry, I'm just thinking out loud here).

Thank you so much.

Posted by
4637 posts

Orvieto is substantially bigger. Civita is very small. From the parking lot you have to walk up up up on the bridge. There is not many accommodation in the hill town so spending night there would be fantastic experience and no crowds whatsoever. Civita and Orvieto are about 25 km apart. No problem to catch the train in Orvieto. Parking in Civita is not difficult but carrying luggage from the car could be.

Posted by
3648 posts

It all depends on what you like and what interests you. Orvieto actually has more than a day’s worth of sights. Its duomo is one of the most beautiful in Italy. There is a museum very close by with Etruscan finds, as well as several other small museums. There is an underground area that can be toured. Just walking through the medieval center is fun.

As for Civita, in my opinion it is a testament to RS’s power that he has convinced so many people that that insignificant, almost abandoned hamlet is worth visiting. It’s a kind of Potemkin village. Almost no one lives there. What’s there has been revived strictly for tourists. If you stand at the foot of the pedestrian bridge, or up a little higher, you can see all you need to see, namely a few buildings sitting on an ever-eroding mesa.

Posted by
2456 posts

I think Orvieto is very beautiful and enjoyable, especially early and late in the day, when the day trippers are gone. Som excellent restaurants, some interesting shops, and many sites and experiences. I loved Orvieto.
Civita is also beautiful, even if it has become a purely tourist site. Hardly anyone lives there, and I believe those are mostly people serving tourists. Still, I expect spending the night in Civita, with a late night stroll, would be a unique and memorable experience.
About parking near Civita, be careful with the day of the week. I went from Orvieto to Civita with a car and driver on a weekend, Sunday I think. Our plan was to park the car near the pedestrian bridge, and for the driver to accompany me walking to Civita. But every parking space was full, there were no parking spaces anywhere nearby, so he dropped me off and then we met up a couple hours later. I found Civita full of other tourists, Italians, and learned that it was a favorite weekend day trip for a Romans.

Posted by
183 posts

Thank you all so much. I'd like to read your helpful replies to the rest of the family. I'm having a hard time deciding! I just thought that a day in Orvieto, or a half-day, followed by arriving to Civita later in the day and spending the night there would be lovely. The crowds would have gone by then and it sounds nice to be up and away from everything.
Yes, we'll be arriving there on a Sunday, so parking in Civita could be a problem.
I have read that Civita is popular mainly as a result of RS. I found it interesting that in the 2018 Italy book, he mentions that Civita "used" to be his favorite hill town. I wish I could find out which hill town is his favorite now!

Posted by
782 posts

I have stayed in Orvieto near the Duomo and the town is well worth seeing.The Duomo is beautiful inside and out.We day tripped to Civita and loved it.
Mike

Posted by
183 posts

Once again, thank you all so much. I am always grateful for these forums and for reading everyone's helpful input.

Since we'll have about 24 hours, we've decided to sleep in Orvieto and visit Civita - we'll hopefully visit the latter early in the morning or later in the day - when most of the day-trippers leave.

Posted by
14963 posts

I'm glad you decided that!

I'll just give a small warning in case there are any folks in your group who are height sensitive. The bridge over to Civita is so much higher than you can imagine from pictures.

There are wonderful gelato shops in Orvieto! Also make sure you have the RS guidebook with you. I think he discusses the carvings on the facade of the Duomo which tell the stories of the Bible. My favorite one is the carving of Eve coming out of the side of Adam. Oh, just Wiki'd it and there is a picture of that one!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orvieto_Cathedral