Returned from Italy in late Sept. and have been meaning to report back on 4 nights in the Cinque Terre.
We had 2 nights in airbnb in northern Monterosso, a wonderful small home with big private garden, slept 6. and 2 nights at Villa Degli Argentieri. I'd seen one bad forum review so I was nervous, but had to book late so had few choices. Happy to say it was really fine. Good staff, helpful. Room was fine. Breakfast fine. Location great. It's right on main promenade at north end of Monterosso.
shoes: I'd read plenty re the hiking and shoes required/recommended, steep fines for bad shoes and many people falling. I'm mid 60s, fairly fit, but I was nervous re reports of such steep areas. I sacrificed my usual good walking/tennis shoe for lightweight Merrells with great tread- which weren't perfect shoe for rest of the trip. First day we hiked Monterosso to Vernazza. Lots and lots of uphill but doable. And views, wow. One young man in our group had open toe sandals with tread. The worker at head of trail didn't even take a second look. A woman I spotted on trail had shiny black leather slip ons. ? So my advice for rule-followers like me, just use your regular tennis shoes, as long as they have some amount of tread. I did hear later of two women I know who fell on hikes there, so that's real. You have to be very aware as you go.
The next two days we explored all 5 towns. Really fun. Found a tiny restaurant at end of meandering Lane in Corniglia with sea view that was just magical. Terza Terra. So late Sept. wasn't too crowded overall. Mornings and about 3 pm on were really great. Sunset boat tour from Stefano was the best! 7 of us, and a 2-hour ride with lots of great history from him, glorious golden light from setting sun on the 5 towns and a soundtrack we all loved, which he joyfully sang and danced to as he motored along. Wonderful.
But each town is just a giant staircase and while I figured I was building thigh muscle (yay) I forgot how it might get to me otherwise. By day 4 as I headed for train platform I had some serious left side back pain. Turns out I'd pulled one of those little muscles used to stabilize us as we climb stairs. Took weeks to repair, but I am mid 60s. :\
Just something to pass on. Next time I travel I'll remember my age and abilities and try to be smarter about what I can do. I guess lesson was to have done a few less flights of stairs. Or stretched more. That said, it was a beautiful region, wonderful memories. I'm grateful to the folks who live and work there.
Posted by
Arlington TX
591 posts
RandR, thanks for the report. Sounds like you had a great time. I have to say I’d never heard of footwear being monitored on the CT but I never planned to hike it. Interesting. I’ll be there briefly in April (but will be train transport between villages only) so I appreciate the restaurant recommendations.
Posted by
Bend, OR
1016 posts
We were in the Cinque Terra in early October with our RS tour. We did the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso to try and escape the wall to wall crowds in the towns and on the trains. Unfortunately, the trail was also very crowded. I commend you for being able to do the never ending stairs up at the beginning of the trail in Monterosso without turning back as we saw others do as we came down them. We had been warned beforehand that the route was a tad easier going south to north, a tad. I had on my Keen Whisper sandals that are closed toe, water friendly with very good tread and nothing was said when we stopped at the check point. For me, these worked out great on this type of trail with all the mud and slippery rocks. Most people seemed to have on lightweight sneakers. I might mention we saw very few people with over the ankle high hiking boots. When we got into Monterosso, sat down for the best beer ever and conversed with others, we heard from the server about the multiple helicopters during the day that had airlifted people off the trail, very sad.