Please sign in to post.

Northern Italy Itinerary & Recs | Lake Como, Ortisei/Dolomites, & Venice

Hi, everyone! My first post on here :) Writing to gain some seasoned traveler insight on a Northern Italy itinerary I have drafted up. I have done a lot of reading on the RS Travel Forum and love to see how everyone shares their personal experiences. I am seeking your insight on a trip for my husband and I (our first wedding anniversary trip!) from August 29 to September 11, 2024. FYI - we are a young (almost 30) couple who enjoys: hiking and nature, walking, major foodies, romantic terraces, meeting new people, but we like to not be in the thickest of it all... to return to a serene place for the evening after all the fun, is ideal. We are open to both B&B and hotels, but value a good central location and high-quality host, food, drink, and accommodations (comfy beds, linens, etc.)

Below is our itinerary thus far...

Arrive in Milan MXP 9/29
Lake Como 8/29 - 9/2 (3 full days)
Ortisei 9/2 - 9/7 (4 full days)
Venice 9/7 - 9/10 (2 full days)
Milan 9/10 - 9/11 (1/2 day)
Fly out of Milan MXP 9/11

Some questions I have:
Thoughts on how to get from Dolomites to Venice?
Is the order I have destinations listed a practical plan?
Any hotel recs in Dolomites, or input on the ones I listed below? (really wanting an outdoor pool)
Any specific restaurants/bars/must see in Ortesei?
Thoughts on basing out of Ortisei to explore Dolomites, renting a car so we can travel around the mountains?
Recommendations for a walking tour of Venice history and niche spots (either personal, or small group)

In addition, I am stuck on where to stay in Lake Como - a few things that are important to us for lodging: lakeside pool, restaurant and bar in hotel/B&B, cozy sleeping arrangements, nearby wine bars/restaurants/walking trails. I was thinking of Varenna, but lack of lakeside pool... then I thought of Menaggio but it seems like there is a lack of bars/restaurants/things to do?. My friend stayed in Cernobbio but not sure about affordable (under $500 a night) lodging there. Our dream itinerary for Lake Como is: one day relax by lakeside pool, rent a boat day, and third hiking and exploring the town (or wine tour one day). Appreciate any recs :)

Some things we want to do:
Countryside cooking class (pasta and tiramisu) - any suggestions for this in Ortisei region?
Wine country tour - any recs for this in Lake Como area?
Boat day on Lake Como
Rent a car and explore Dolomites
Explore Ortisei using gondolas
Evening gondola ride in Venice
History tour in Venice
Last Supper in Milan (if possible during our 1/2 day on 9/10)

Hotels (I welcome feedback)
Lake Como 8/29 - 9/2 | need help identifying where to stay
Ortisei 9/2 - 9/4 Hotel Gardena Grodnerhof & 9/4 - 9/7 Adler Spa Resort Dolomiti
Venice 9/7 - 9/10 Casin dei Nobili B&B
Milan 9/10 - 9/11 | any recs for an affordable (under $200 hotel) for one night? Maybe with a host who can take us around the city for a few hours?

I know this is a lot, and I am sure I have more questions but this is all I have for now. I appreciate any and all constructive feedback.

Thanks yall!

~ V

Posted by
1638 posts

First, congrats on your anniversary and thank you for doing your homework before posting.

Second, if you are based in Ortisei, you don't really need a car. There's enough to do for 4 days locally in Val Gardena. This is a good, most convenient base.

Third, Lake Como and the Dolomites are some of the most expensive vacation destinations in Italy. Therefore, it's hard to find bargains. I suggest you prioritize location over budget. Also, lodging with a nice pool will be $$$ for sure.

Fourth, I don't know if there is a direct train from Bolzano to Venice, on top of my head. I think you have to change at Verona. Google Maps is very helpful in this regard. Just don't trust their driving time estimates in mountains, but you don't need this.

Posted by
910 posts

If it was me, I would do everything I wanted in Milan first and then head off. Fly back from Venice and save a travel day.

Basing out of Ortisei to explore the Dolomites is easy. Hotels give you free Mobicards (bus passes) for the duration of your stay. Check out the Suedtirol websites for more information on local transport.

https://www.suedtirol.info/en/en

Lake Como train to Verona and change to go to Bolzano (towards Innsbruck), At the Bolzano main station walk out the front door, turn right and the bus station is (maybe 25-50 yards) to your right, Catch the bus to Ortisei. Used to be about 10 Euro. Nice winding road. Ortisei has excellent food and wine. I will know more up to date information [post-pandemic] when I get back in April from my skiing trip there.

To go Ortisei to Venice you have two choices - "Short Way" - The the local bus back to Bolzano and take the train to Verona, change trains to go Venice. Or, "Long Way" take a local bus east to Corvara/Bada and change to the Cortina Express Bus from Corvara to Cortina d'Ampezo. Change in Cortina to the Cortina Express bus to Marco Polo Airport in Venice. Catch a water taxi from the airport to Venice itself.

Posted by
11608 posts

We had a great experience staying at family owned and run Hotel Grones in Ortisei.We ate dinner there too, excellent.

Posted by
11799 posts

Why are you changing hotels while in Ortisei? There are many hotels there and in the Alpe di Siusi that off half-pension. If you want to split your time, spend 2 or 3 nights in Ortisei and the remainder in the Alpe di Siusi. We love the AlpenHotel Panorama in the AdS.

Posted by
77 posts

On Lake Como, I have two hotel suggestions for you. The first is really, really expensive, but maybe you can economize elsewhere. The property is Grand Hotel Tremezzo. The pool floats in the lake! For something more modest, have a look at Borgo La Terrazze. It is just outside of Bellagio and the pool offers a lake view. The hotel advertises a shuttle into Bellagio. I think it is just a couple of miles. You'd have the ease of getting into the village and the quiet evening outside of town.

For a wine tour while on Lake Como, look for trip to the Valtellina region. Vineyards growing up the mountainsides. This valley is nestled at the base of the Alps.

There is a lot of hiking in the Lake Como area.

Milan 9/10 - 9/11 | any recs for an affordable (under $200 hotel) for one night? Maybe with a host who can take us around the city for a few hours. I can't suggest any hotels in Milan. But I can very highly recommend a tour in the city with Bella Milano Tours.

Posted by
1321 posts

I might suggest instead of lake choose Lake Garda and if possible fly in and out of Venice. Or a least into Milan and home from Venice. Lake como doesn’t have the wine tours you can get say in Verona or Brescia. Lake como is my favorite but to me with the Dolomites Lake Garda makes more sense and is just as beautiful.

Posted by
2571 posts

Just a restaurant recommendation near Ortesei. Go to La Tambra in Santa Cristina. Get the pear & prosciutto pizza, and a steak. Both are the best meal that I (pizza) and my husband (steak) have ever had.

We stayed in their hotel and it was lovely, with wonderful views of Sassalongo. The town is much quieter than Ortesei. No pool, but they do include passes for the public pool nearby. We didn’t make it there, so I can’t review it. Hotel Touring next door has a rooftop pool. But if you’re looking for a more quiet location, Santa Cristina is it. Ortesei felt a bit like Disneyland on a weekend. A car is helpful in the area. Buses are available, but will get very crowded.

Posted by
1 posts

Ciao.I have been to Venice & the Dolomites three times in the past 6 years. So excellent. A few of my thoughts. In Ortisei we stayed at the Grand Tubla Hotel and it was great with good views. Take the tram in Ortisei to the top of the local mountain. Spectacular views, abundance of trails and a mountain top bar/restaurant. We had a rental car every time we were in that region and it was definitely more convenient because you can travel and stop when you prefer. Check out Passo Falzarego. There is a tram there as well and it is very worth it. We really liked Santa Maddalena (Hotel Fallerhof) and Cortina D'Ampezzo (Hotel Panda). Villa Stern (Hotel Dolomit). Try to go over Passo di Sella from Ortisei to Corvara. It is mind-blowing.
In Venice we stayed at Hotel Mercurio and it was fairly reasonable pricewise but had great hosts and breakfast. Check out Walks of Italy for walking tours of Venice. We have taken the Doges Palace and Food Tour. Both were excellent. We dined twice at AL Barbacani and it is good. We dined at Al Covo as well. It is considered the best restaurant in Venice and was excellent but it's a bit pricy. The Vaporetto to Burano is a must. Have lunch at the Gato Nero (reservations a must). Stop at Murano (glassware making) on the way back. As a sidebar, my cousin lives in Treviso and it is a worth destination. Beautiful medieval walled city with canals and zero tourists. My cousin owns a restaurant in Istrana https://www.ristorantealbarco.online/ and it is killer. Also, in that region, look into visiting Cittadella. I am heading there again this October with my daughter for her first trip to Italy. Can't wait. Buon Viaggio!

Posted by
10 posts

Hi everyone! Thank you for all the replies :)

Couple questions:
Best way to get from Como > Ortisei? (rent a car in Como and drive to Ortisei? can I rent a car in Ortisei?)
Best auto rental company?
Any recs for hotels in Como? (has anyone stayed at 73 Boutique Hotel, Aurum & Vitrum Luxury Suites, Villa Platamone, SantAgata Bed & Breakfast?)

We are flying roundtrip to Milan because they have a United flight and it's only offered roundtrip on Chase flights... I thought this was strange, but it is not showing up anywhere else (and it's about a $2000 savings versus flying to Milan, and back from Venice one way flights).

Looks like the way from Ortisei to Venice is sorted out, thanks to yall. I am trying to figure out the best way to get from Como > Ortisei. We want to stop a couple places along the way for sight seeing, and we definitely want a car to explore further places while in Ortisei. I know there is a lot to do in Ortisei, but we want to experience other nearby(ish) places and indulge in the adventure of driving around the mountains.

Laurel - Changing hotels in Oritsei to experience both lovely places. Are you stuck up at Alpen Hotel Panorama once the lifts close? In other words, could we go down to town in the evening and come back via lift? Looks like a lovely place, but want to be able to go to town freely without fear of getting left down there.

Raymond.bini - Love all the Ortisei and Venice recs. Need to make another trip to explore Treviso - THANK YOU!

Thank you for the recs for wine tours, restaurants and everything. :)

~ V

Posted by
11799 posts

Changing hotels in Oritsei to experience both lovely places. Are you stuck up at Alpen Hotel Panorama once the lifts close? In other words, could we go down to town in the evening and come back via lift? Looks like a lovely place, but want to be able to go to town freely without fear of getting left down there.

You are sort of “stuck” as the lifts close and driving would be time-consuming if you even have a car (I recommend against it). But as the hotels have marvelous dinners that take 90 minutes, that is your evening’s entertainment after a vigorous day outdoors.

Your change from the Grodenerhof to the Adler is a 6 minute walk. You’d probably have to check out by 10:00 and probably cannot check in until after 15:00. Not sure packing up to move is worth it.

Posted by
386 posts

I stayed at the Hotel Regina in Gravedona on the lake in 2015 and loved it. It’s not fancy but was very nice and has a pool. I checked your dates and it appears they may not be booking out that far yet; if you like the looks of it I suggest emailing them. I took train from Milan and then the C10 bus. Took ferry across lake one day. It’s a lovely short walk to the main part of town where there are restaurants and bars.

Posted by
125 posts

In Varenna, we stayed at Hotel Royal Victoria, which was amazing! It had fabulous views, included a full breakfast, and had a lakeside pool, small but there. We got the room with the full balcony and it had views that could make you cry! I don't have my notes but it was under $400. It has a poolside bar, a beautiful indoor bar, and a very nice restaurant. Varenna was our favorite of the towns on Lake Como. On their website, it listed our dates were not available, but we emailed and we were in.

Posted by
3299 posts

Hotel Interski in Santa Cristina has a nice outdoor infinity pool. You can walk to La Tambla for that steak recommended above.