Northern Italy Itinerary - Feedback Please

I think Ortisei or even St. Christina or Selva in the Val Gardena makes a good base. They are about 5 or so minutes from one another, so none of them is "inconvenient". When in September? I ask as some cable cars start closing for the season in September. I think you'll find more than enough open though.
We've been a few times in early to mid October and love the Dolomites. You may find the Gardena Card a good value.
Here's a link:

http://www.valgardena.it/en/hiking-biking/walking-trekking/lifts/

Paul

The bus system in the Dolomites is really good, and extensive - if you're in Ortisei without a car, you'll have lots of options for day trips beyond what you can do hiking.

I'd suggest flying home from Switzerland rather than spending only one night in Paris. The train ticket to Paris can be expensive unless you book it about three months in advance.

"We are skipping Cinque Terre, because I don't think my husband will tolerate the crowds well” Wait until you get to Venice - the crowds, even in September/October, are crushing! If you need to get away from the crowds of Venice for a day, do a day trip to Vicenza and Padua by train. It's easy and cheap and these under-rated cities have a lot to offer.

I would take the train to Verona and pick up your car there. The Autostrada can be pretty expensive and the A-roads can be pretty slow.

Consider taking one night from the Dolomites and adding it to Venice which is a truly unique place and easily deserves more time. I also agree with the idea of flying out of Switzerland rather than Paris -- that's a long way to go just to catch a flight -- perhaps add that night to Varenna.

Fly out from Zurich

Verona itself can be enjoyed in a day. With 3 nights, perhaps you are looking at a day to either Mantova or Vicenza.

Thanks for the responses so far.

Thanks for the link, Paul. It looks like the cable cars will be operating until early October, so we are good.

I hear you all about Zurich, but we really prefer direct flights. If we fly from Paris (and I'm not totally set on that), we will book our train fare in advance to get the cheapest ticket, Laura.
Ha, ha, Todd, you are right. I think my husband might hate Venice, but I have been dreaming about going there since I was a little girl. I am going to suggest he wander the back alleys. I certainly can't subject him to two places he will hate, so Cinque Terre is out. Also, I feel like I am pushing it with three nights in Venice, so I can't add another one, TC.

Consider taking one night from the Dolomites and adding it to Venice which is a truly unique place and easily deserves more time.

We love Venice, but we probably love Ortisei and the Val Gardena more. Your 5 nights is an excellent idea and you might want more! No car necessary. We go there very year and never rent a car. Train to Bolzano, bus to Ortisei, easy as pie. Let me know if you need details on the buses. Get a Val Gardena card for the lifts. It is a great value. Your lodging should give you a free pass for using on the buses in the valley.

Carroll,

Your Itnerary looks well organized, but I agree with the others on a few points.....

• use a return flight from Zürich. It will be much easier than navigating the chaos of CDG and will save you the train fare to Paris.
• your plan to spend 5 nights in Ortisei is good, given your interest in "beautiful scenery, hiking/walking".
• I definitely concur with the previous comment about the crowds in Venice. I was there in September, and they were so thick I almost went back to the Vaporetto and got out of town! However, I decided to tolerate the chaos, but tried to get away from Piazza San Marco, which helped.

Carroll, you wrote "Ha, ha, Todd, you are right. I think my husband might hate Venice, but I have been dreaming about going there since I was a little girl. I am going to suggest he wander the back alleys. I certainly can't subject him to two places he will hate, so Cinque Terre is out. Also, I feel like I am pushing it with three nights in Venice, so I can't add another one, TC."

Look for a place in the Dorsoduro neighborhood as it's the most un-touristy of the main islands. It's relatively quit, even in the high season... I would also look into an apartment as they don't cost much more than good hotel rooms and offer you space to spread out and relax. We stayed in an apartment on Rio Marin (a quite part of the San Polo neighborhood) and just loved it. In my opinion, Venice is best after about 1800 as all the tourists go back to the cruise ships and tour buses.

The main vaporetto routes (1 & 2) are a crush of tourists during the day so I would plan on walking. If you don't have problems with stairs, Venice is VERY walkable with little effort. We gave up on the vaporetto (on the Grand Canal) because it getting on an off was such a pain.

Have fun, Todd

I would go as late in the year as you can arrange and still enjoy the mountains. Even in October Venice/Verona/Milan are as likely to be hot as not. Make sure your hotels have AC. The crowds in Venice are mostly around the Rialto Bridge and the Piazza. It's easy to walk 5 minutes and be in a back lane with few people, but still lots to enjoy . . . quiet, scenic small canals, churches, shops, cafes.

Laurel and Ken, I am happy to hear you think five nights in the Dolomites is good. I was afraid it might be too much, especially without a car, but I really wanted to linger there. Laurel, I sent you a PM about the buses; thanks!

I am leaning towards flying home from Zurich now.

Todd, thanks so much for the suggestion on where to stay in Venice. I would love to find an apartment. We walk pretty much everywhere, and rarely take public transportation to our lodgings, so we should be able to avoid the crowds on the vaporettos.

Chani, I wish we could go in October (that was my original plan), but we have commitments that we have to be home for. I am worried about hot weather, but we'll just have to make the best of it. Air conditioning is our number one criteria for lodging. I am glad to hear you think the back lanes won't be crowded.

Don't think you will need AC at this time of year in any of these places but especially not in the mountains.
I think you would be better served having a car for those 5 nights in the Dolomites but also don't think that is too long there based on your other areas. (3 days in Verona does seems a long time unless have a day trip or two planned)

I have been to Murren and found it beautiful (stayed in Wengen not Murren) but suspect it is a long day to go from Milan to Zurich by train and then get over to Murren? Unless there is another way to get there from Milan.
I agree if Murren is your last stop flying out of Zurich makes much more sense.

Will be interested in hearing your opinion/comparison of the Dolomites to the Swiss Alps
I know which has the better food!

Let me join in the chorus of Val Gardena lovers. I spent 5 nites there in 2014, I am returning this Sept for at least 8 maybe more. You definitely don't need a car. The gardena card is a great value, it gives access to all the lifts you will ever need to access fantastic hiking/walking. The Dolomites are gorgeous, you won't be thinking about Murren while you are there. Finally the food...you're in Italy.

Two points to chime in on: (1) we stayed in Dorsodura area of Venice and I too recommend it as quiet, peaceful area. We walked all over Venice and made discoveries on our own with no crowds. Just avoid the main tourist paths that run from train station (and cruise lines, buses etc) to San Marco. And get a really good street map. The calles can be very crooked and narrow (fun) and street names aren't obvious. (2) we took a train from Milan to Murren (that same trip in 2014). While it took most of a day, it was not a difficult trip. Staying in Murren was awesome! Would go again. But this year we are doing Dolomites, thus this topic of interest to me too!