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Northern Italy Home Base

I have seen several posts about home bases in northern Italy. We have a few additions, so I thought I would see if there are suggestions out there.

We are looking for a cute town to stay in and base for a weeklong visit to northern Italy. We have a well-behaved four year old and will be traveling primarily by rail. We are flying in and out of Milan. We are hoping to enjoy great food and wandering along the way. We would rather stay in a picturesque smaller town and take day trips. So far, we are thinking Parma, Venice and Modena as day trips.

I am interested in finding a town/city for the trip to base and day trip from. If it can fit in, we are also interested in visiting San Marino. Are there suggestions of a cute town for a home base between Milan and Bologna?

Posted by
7350 posts

Parma and Venice are quite far apart; it will be difficult to pinpoint a suitable place for day trips to both locations. Also, why Parma and Modena?

This reservation aside, the place that comes to mind is Padua (Padova), which is charming in itself and has excellent connections to the east (Venice), south (Bologna) and west (Verona).

Posted by
7 posts

Thank you for the suggestion! (Parma and Modena were on the list for cheese and balsamic vinegar tastings)

Posted by
11809 posts

Why San Marino?
Look at Vicenza for a base in the Veneto or our favorite, Bassano de Grappa.

Posted by
17603 posts

Take a look at Ferrara—-centrally located for the places you name. From Ferrara, it is an hour to 1.5 hours to Venice to the north and 30 minutes to Bologna to the south, both on direct trains with no changes. For Parma and Modena, change at Bologna and ride another 30-45 minutes. I would also recommend a visit to Ravenna.

It is a pretty town with city walls and a castle, and very bike-friendly. We found a nice apartment on booking.com for our stay there.

https://emiliaromagnaturismo.it/en/towns/ferrara

Posted by
28754 posts

[Edited to add: Lola's suggestion of Ferrara is a good one; time-wise, it works better that Bologna if you must go in both directions from one base. It's still more travel time than I'd want if I planned three day-trips over the course of six or seven days.]

I don't really think there is a place that works for visits to both Venice and Modena/Parma. You won't want to spend 5-7 hours a day on trains. Keep in mind, too, that it's not just the train time you need to budget for; you also have to get back and forth between your lodgings and the train station, plus time to find the right track, which can add considerable time in each direction.

Italy has some very fast trains. The Frecciarossa, Frecciargento and Frecciabianca trains will whisk you between large cities extremely fast, but they do not stop everywhere. For trips of any distance, it's advantageous not to need the much slower regional trains that serve small towns. It's also important to check how long a layover you'll have if you need to transfer. A couple of 45-minute layovers add 1-1/2 hours to total transit time.

Parma and Modena are easy; they're close to each other and on the same rail line. Venice is the outlier. To side trip to both Venice and Parma/Modena, you'll need to change trains in Bologna unless you choose Bologna itself as your base. That's where rail lines to Venice and to Modena/Parma meet.

Bologna has a lot to recommend it. It's a great food city with one of Europe's largest medieval centers. I believe there are food tours operating from Bologna to Modena and Parma, as well. The complicating factor is that the main train station in Bolgona--from which you'd be taking your day trips--is quite a walk from the historic center, the best place to choose a hotel. Google Maps tells me the Piazza Maggiore is about 0.9 miles from Bologna Centrale RR station. By the time you walked to a bus stop and waited for a bus, it might not be much faster than walking the entire way.

And the fact is that even the optimum choice (Bologna) means over 3 hours round-trip on the train to Venice--with really significant walks on both ends of that rail trip; I'd figure on about 5 hours in transit for that trip, which puts you in Venice during the same horribly crowded mid-day hours when everyone else is there. That's not the way to see Venice. You can explore travel times on the Trenitalia website. You'll need to use the Italian station names, as follows:

Venice: Venezia S. Lucia
Bologna: Bologna Centrale
Padua: Padova
Parma
Modena
Vicenza

Don't forget to change the time of day for each search, and note that schedules vary by day of week, especially for Sunday.

In case it helps, here's schematic map on Trentitalia's routes. There are others out there that may be easier to read. I really can't see the difference between the heavy blue lines and heavy green lines on my monitor.

Trenitalia rail schematic

I believe you should either defer Venice until a later trip--which could also include Padua, Vicenza and Bassano del Grappa--or spend some nights in Venice and some nights in the Parma/Modena area.

Posted by
1641 posts

What time of year? I'm hoping you'll say some time late fall to early spring.

Having spent 2.5 weeks in Italy with our (then) 4-year-old grandson and seeing how enchanted our (now) 4-year-old granddaughter is with videos and descriptions of Venice, here's what I would do with your week in northern Italy.

I'm assuming you can't change your flights to be into Venice and out of Milan, which would be ideal.

Land in Milan and take the fast train to Venice --- we've done it and it's not the pain it sounds like. Take turns napping on the train.

Stay in a nice quiet part of Venice for 4 nights. Get vaporetto passes. We like an apartment in Castello near a vaporetto stop. The area was just like "a cute small town." The canals and bridges, the lack of cars, the freedom of running around in the various piazze, eating at the restaurants' outdoor seating, buying fruit from a boat, going up in the bell tower across the Grand Canal from San Marco, and riding around on the vaporetti (to Burano is one good idea) will make your child very happy. Only go to the heavily touristed areas early in the morning and late in the evening. There is lots to do in Venice. It's a great place to get over jet lag, too. It's where I would like to take both of our grandchildren soon.

Then, pack up and take the train to Modena for two or three nights. Find a private tour that will take you to a cheese factory, a vinegar tasting, etc. Our tour took us to those two things and to a vineyard and lunch. Could have taken us to a Parma ham place, but I didn't want to do that. No need to visit Parma to taste cheese, but you could. We stayed several nights in both Parma and Modena --- actually, either would be fine!

Then take a train back to Milan --- many of us would say to stay in Milan the night before your flight home. We used to do that, now we stay in a nice historic family-run hotel near the airport with a shuttle to the airport. But if you stay in Milan, you could visit the roof of the cathedral or another site you would enjoy.