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Non-touristy restaurants in the big 3 tourist towns (with a unique concern)

As we finalize our 15-day Rome/Venice/Florence trip, I'm starting to compile a list of places to dine in each city. When we visited Paris (our first Europe trip) ten years ago, we assumed that all food in Paris would be amazing and thus did zero research. As you can imagine, that ended poorly! I wish to not repeat that experience! We had great dining luck on our subsequent Spain trips, but that was luck which was backed up with research!

The internet has confirmed what I assumed to be true: not all restaurants in these "big three" Italian cities are created equal. Many are, as one would expect, tourist traps. Of the three cities we are visiting, my understanding is that Venice will present the biggest challenge here.

I understand the basics--don't eat near a major tourist attraction, avoid places with posted menus in English, avoid places where staff is standing outside enticing people to come in. But I'd love a few recommendations for dining from those of you who have been there, done that. So I ask of you: what are some not-to-be-missed restaurants/cafes/etc. in Rome, Venice, and Florence?

A note on budget: this is a budget trip, so while I'm not trying to eat for pennies, any five dollar sign suggestions would be considered a once-per-trip splurge.

We will also have a kitchen in both Rome and Florence, and I'm cool with recommendations of markets to check out for at-home cooking. I'm also open to being told that cooking is stupid and we should just enjoy many of each city's fine restaurants instead!

And finally, a note on my unique concern (stop reading now if you don't want to know possibly TMI medical things!)

I would love to enjoy street food and/or gelato on the go. I also understand that the thing to do in Venice is a cicchetti crawl. However, I cannot do any of those things and here's why: I had cancer three years ago, a resulting MAJOR surgery, and now every single time I eat I require a restroom immediately. Like get up while eating and find a restroom and return to finish my meal. So I cannot eat on the street, and I cannot enjoy cicchetti bars, as my understanding (from much research) is that most of them do not have toilets. So for those of you making recommendations, please keep this in mind--and let me know if there's anywhere I should avoid! I would hate to walk halfway across town to arrive at a dining establishment only to discover that I can't eat there. Thanks!

Posted by
4365 posts

For every region of Italy, I use the Slow Food guide--they now have a convenient app you can download to your phone. These are the established osterie type places. Elizabeth Minchilli is a food writer who also has great recommendations on her app. With those two resources, you will eat quite well!
Cooking -- not stupid at all! Though we still go out for dinner, as that's too fun to miss, breakfast and lunch are often made in rentals on my trips. I like a substantial breakfast for one thing, and I don't want to linger over lunch as much as I do dinner, because of the Italian service style, running back to the apartment for lunch can actually be quicker.

Posted by
1206 posts

Tracy, I've eaten at several cicchetti bars in Venice, over several visits to Venice in recent years, and have probably used the restroom in every one of them. I specifically remember the restrooms at Cantina Do Spade, Cantina do Mori, and Osteria Antico Dolo (listed in order of my favorites) all of which are in the Rialto area, and all restrooms were clean and "western" in style. Although a "cicchetti crawl", like with a tour, might not be possible with your specific needs, you can certainly go enjoy cicchetti at your own pace!

Posted by
3112 posts

If you like street food with a sit-down (and restroom) option, Florence has some good inexpensive kabob places. They're not fancy but the food is good. I especially like Ayasofya Istanbul which serves many Turkish style dishes other than just kabob. The original location is on Via Panicale and they just opened a second location on Via Sant'Antonino, both located about a block in different directions from the Central Market.

Posted by
383 posts

Hi Tracy,

Sabatino's in Florence is a big, family-run, and inexpensive restaurant with a beautiful, modern restroom. The food is simple and good depending on what you order. I had the best Panzanella salad here! It's in the Oltrarno, not far from Santo Spirito. Good luck!

http://www.trattoriasabatino.it/

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11315 posts
Posted by
85 posts

Venice - Pizzeria Oke and Osteria Ai 4 Feri (both in Dorsoduro), Trattoria Bussa alle Torre (Murano)

Florence - Trattoria al Trebbio and Boccadarno; the Central Market has a number of small food stands but I think there's bathrooms in the Market. There's also a food court upstairs.

Rome - Bistrot 2014 (near Forum), La Tavernetta 29 da Tony e Andrea and Casetta di Trastevere (both in Trastevere)

I believe all of these have restrooms but I can't say for sure as I didn't pay much attention. Bistrot 2014 would be the only one I'd think might not. Good luck!

Posted by
887 posts

Just bear in mind that in Rome and probably Florence, restrooms are often tucked away in the basement or upstairs. Always seem to be steep stairs too!

Posted by
463 posts

Thank you so much, everyone! These recommendations are all going in my notes! I very much appreciate the advice. I will be sure to report back with tales of all the hopefully-amazing meals we enjoy.

Thanks!!!

Posted by
1386 posts

Do check out the bathroom before you choose the restaurant. All of the.......interesting..... toilets in Italy are springing to my mind, but not the ones that were not......interesting. Sorry.

But the one thing I can tell you is that you cannot predict what the bathroom will be like from the way the restaurant looks. I have been surprised both ways. I have photos of one experience at a perfectly lovely restaurant in Torino that had a small, narrow phone-booth-like hut out in an open courtyard with just a hole in the floor. I was laughing, which made it worse, but I don't think you would be laughing. Perhaps you could find someone to write a sentence or two in Italian for you to discreetly explain that you want to just look at the bathroom first due to medical issues.

Posted by
463 posts

nancyscherer8 --excellent advice! and i'm laughing over your story! i was honestly considering having little cards printed which read (in italian):

i'm sorry. i had cancer. please point me to your toilet and my husband will order a drink.

i feel like that MIGHT be overkill.

but honestly, even a hole in the ground in a courtyard works for me. i don't need comfort. i've long since adapted. and i like to hike. so let's just leave it at that and say: i'll be fine as long as there's somewhere with a door and a hole. in other parts of the world, bushes work. oddly, cities stress me out more than anything.

Posted by
131 posts

Why shouldn't a person eat at a restaurant with an English menu?
I don't follow.

Posted by
1878 posts

I ate at this place a couple of times in Rome in late October 2016: Alimentari dei coronari. It's more of a wine bar but they have great food too. Even though it's in the old town it was filled with locals. The kind of place where a glass of wine might be 6 Euros but it's a good-sized pour and really good wine. (Too many restaurants in Italy define a glass of wine a 100 cl, less that 1/7 of a bottle). When I was unsure about a wine they even poured me a taste. I had a platter of prosciutto and cheese one night and some kind of sandwich the other. The theater of the server doing her work was entertainment in itself. It just felt very authentic to me and was a highlight of my fourth visit to Rome.

I was recently in Italy again and you might want to watch out for places with restrooms that are one person at a time. I seem to recall that was pretty common. If you need immediate access this might be a problem for you.

Generally I think it's easier to find good food at a reasonable price in Rome and Florence than Venice or other places in northern Italy. On my recent northern Italy trip I found the food to be hit or miss. Rome and Florence, I had no trouble finding pretty good food.