Parma because the Duomo's lovely pink Baptistery has painted ceiling and walls with sculptures incorporated into the paintings. And the Storica Spezieria di San Giovanni (pharmacy museum). Lots of great places to eat.
But perhaps you would like to avoid a town altogether? Are you driving? In that case, look into visiting Torrechiara, a 15th century castle just outside of Parma --- it's full of wonderful painted rooms, each one different, and views over the countryside. It has a parking lot, so there's no hassle about parking. The restaurant there, Taverna del Castello, is good although fancier than we like. Look into it and see what you think.