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New idea: Varenna Lake Como and Alpe di Siusi itinerary help

My husband, myself and our younger daughter (21) will be traveling in Europe. Our older daughter (23) will be coming from NY to meet us giving us 8 days to travel together.

I've always wanted to go to Lake Como. Could we stay in Varenna for a couple of days and then go to Alpe Di Siusi to hike in the Dolomites? It doesn't have to be in this order. Would our daughter fly into Milan and we would meet her there and then take a train to Varenna? If we went from Varenna to the Dolomites would we drive? I've heard the drive can be crazy. And where would we stay? I've heard good things about Ortisei and Castelrotto. I've also read about 3 day hikes where you stay in mountain huts which could be amazing

And how long would you recommend in each place. From the Alpe di Siusi where would we need to go so my daughter could fly back to NY? Could we end up somewhere where she could take the train to Milan and fly out from there?

Posted by
16895 posts

I assume that main benefits of driving would be to use a scenic mountain route or if you wanted to have the car longer in the Dolomites. I haven't driven that area myself. Driving won't necessarily be faster than train. By train, the route would be Varenna-Milan-Verona-Bolzano - 2 train connections, about 5 hours, and then a bus to Alpe di Siusi. There's no special scenery between Milan and Verona - it's just the main transport corridor used by both railways and highways.

The Milano-Varenna leg that you might travel in both directions by train takes 1 hour. From Bolzano, your daughter to go back through Verona to Venice (some connections as fast as 3 hours) to fly out or Milan (about 4 hours). Allow extra time to actually get to the airport.

Looking Up Train Schedules and Routes Online gives you the DB train schedule link and tips for using it. Or www.trenitalia.com takes you to the source and also sells train tickets.

Posted by
27648 posts

I spent a week in the Dolomites in 2015. You can get around pretty easily by public transportation--buses from Bolzano or Bressanone up to the mountain villages, then various types of lifts for higher-elevation walks. On the other hand, renting a car for 1 to 3 days would be nice for taking a loop drive through the mountains.

I'd tend to go with Ortisei rather than Castelrotto, but they are both pretty.

Bolzano would be a nice city break while you're in the area. It has a good-sized and very attractive historic district and multiple museums, including the one housing the Iceman. Note, though, that it can be very hot in Bolzano and the other valley cities/towns during the summer, and the attitude of many of the hoteliers is, "We don't need air-conditioning."

Posted by
17244 posts

I have spent three weeks hiking in the Dolomites, on three separate trips. Two by public transport, and the last by car. I have to say I much preferred having a car, for the freedom and flexibility. We rented the car in Bolzano (which you could do as well) and returned it in Venice (which you could also do). This way you could drive your daughter to the Venice airport (Marco Polo) for her flight out. If you are not flying out the same day, you could spend the night in Venice, Verona, or perhaps Lago do Garda before returning the car.

I can discuss some possible places to stay later---time to get dinner started!

Posted by
25 posts

Thank you!

When I work out our itinerary it looks tight? I'm using my daughter Olivia's schedule because we can work around that.

Sat- she flys from NY to Milan
Sun- she arrives Milan train to Varenna (we either meet her in Milan or Varenna)
Sun night, Mon, Tues, Wed in Varenna
Thurs- travel day: train or drive to Ortisei (?) Thurs night in Ortisei
Fri, Sat, in Ortisei and hiking in Alpe di Siusi
Sun- we would have to head to Venice or Milan to spend the night so she could fly out the next morning (Mon) She has to be back at work on Tues

What do you think? Still not sure about taking trains and buses vs driving? There will be our two girls and their mom and dad in a car if we drive! I love the idea of driving but I also want it be a low stress trip!!

Posted by
771 posts

I think your itinerary looks good, especially if you fly "open-jaw"--into one airport (Milan) and out of another (Venice.)

We did something similar last May. We arrived in Varenna by train, having switched in Milan from Naples. When leaving Varenna, we took the train to Verona to spend a few days, then picked up a car. We drove up to Bolzano and stopped to visit, then continued on to Ortisei. Heading home with a flight from Venice, we drove from Ortisei to Venice; through the mountains. If you chose to drive, you could take the train Varenna-Milan-Verona-Bolzano and pick up a car there, as someone else mentioned having done.

There are pros and cons to the car or using buses for the Ortisei portion, but I think either way would work for your family.

Driving gives you flexibility. One of our days it rained, and we drove to Merano, a town to the northeast (we had already stopped in Bolzano on the way, which would be another good choice.) Other than that we didn't use the car while in Ortisei because on the other 2 days we took the lifts to do hiking. The drive through the mountain pass to Venice, (and there are many beautiful ones to explore,) while spectacular, needs a driver who is ok sharing narrow roads with busses and bikes. My husband was Ok with that job. Alternatively, you can drive back the way you came, through Bolazno and Verona, on to Venice. There, we chose to stay just outside of Venice, very close to the airport at a place called the Venice Resort Hotel. The rates were reasonable and they had parking for the car. If the car was already returned, they had a shuttle to the airport. We didn't take advantage, but there is also a local bus that you can take to go into Venice for the evening, if you chose.
Using the buses while in Ortisei could give you flexibility if, for example, if one day the girls wanted to go one way, and you another.
Or, you could easily travel to another town to do hiking there. Then there are no worries about the car. i thought we would do more driving around than we did, probably because of rain for he first day and a half.

In Varenna, we stayed in Albergo Milano, which is well recommended on this forum. We met a family staying in an Air B&B who were happy with their choice.
In Ortisei, I would recommend staying close to the town center, rather than a bit up up on the mountainside, which we did. The return climbs were pretty steep each time we set out.

You didn't mention when you would be going, but lifts in the Val Gardena area of the Dolomites don't start operation until late May.

www.valgardena.it is helpful. Search for 'hiking' or 'summer.' You can find information on the refugees there, also. Dates for the lifts are in month/day order, not day/month.

If you are really interested in staying in the huts, or refugees, I would suggest starting a separate thread with that question, since there are people on the forum who have done that.

Posted by
25 posts

Thank you so much for your suggestions. Oh my gosh I can't believe I didn't say that with one of our daughters work schedule we are committed to traveling the first week of Aug which is not ideal in terms of crowds. I'm worried that this is too much in one week. And SO crowded. With only 7 full days together it might be better to focus on one area? I've found an awesome airbnb in Varenna. We could start in Milan and then use Varenna as a home base? maybe take a day trip to Lugano?

Posted by
473 posts

We are doing something similar in June. We fly to Venice from Philadelphia and pick up a car and drive to Ortisei for five nights. Then drop off the car at Verona airport. There we will catch the bus to Verona train station. From there we travel via Milan to Varenna. Spending four nights. Then back to Venice via train and spend three nights there. Then fly out of VCE to San Francisco changing planes in Philadelphia. We can't wait.

Posted by
771 posts

I think your revised idea sounds good as well. Rick Steves gives directions on how to travel to Lugano from Varenna for a day trip. We also did the cooking class at Ristorante il Caminetto that he mentions and enjoyed it, but touring the lake comes first.

Posted by
25 posts

Thank you all! I am so impressed with the amazing advice on this travel forum. I can't wait for this trip!!!!