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Need your help with a last minute six week trip to Italy

My young 74 yr old mother and I are planning to head to Italy in the beginning of May. She would like to spend a week (perhaps 2?) in Florence, a week in Venice, and then hill town(s) in Umbria or Tuscany or ????. We are hoping for apartment rentals max 600 E per week. My mom is very into Art, myself- not as much. I enjoy getting off the touristed path and living like a temporary local .We are wanting to minimize the number of accommodation changes, and will likely travel by bus and train . We are looking for a very relaxed travel pace, where one really can get a feel for a place. My mom has been to Italy before (30 yrs ago), and this is my first time (but this trip is about mom). Looking for recommendations and suggestions for town(s) to stay in ..perhaps for two or three weeks. Is two weeks two long for Florence? Not long enough? Ditto for Venice? We are hoping to not spend the whole trip amongst crowds of other tourists. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Posted by
7737 posts

Wow. I envy you. Six weeks in Italy! The issue you're going to come up against in finding apartments now is their availability at this short notice, esp. if you're looking for 1-2 weeks at a stretch. That's also going to impact your budget, since you won't have as many options. Try vrbo.com, where there is a "check availability" feature you can use. Can I lobby for you to consider Rome as well, especially given your mom's love of art? The Vatican Museum alone should have her champing at the bit. For Venice, try to stay in the Dorsoduro neighborhood. Easy access to the major museums in Venice from there, and it has far fewer tourists than San Marco/Rialto. It's a beautiful charming neighborhood. And if you haven't bought the RS Italy 2011 book, do it right now. It will be the smartest money you spend. Best wishes.

Posted by
316 posts

A week in Florence would never be too long for me but a week in Venice would be. Where else you go would depend on where you're flying into and out of. Once you've decided that, then just pick stops along the route. Are you planning on Rome? It can feel much smaller if you travel the RS way and is a relief for those not quite so artsy!

Posted by
931 posts

Rome for two weeks would be wonderful! One week iwould do also. We loved staying in Siena, rather than Florence, but you could do either. (Florence will be flatter and easier to walk...) I would only spend one week in Florence and Venice, and would add a week in Sorrento. I really like your idea of hill towns in Tuscany and Umbria, but I would prefer using a car in those areas; much easier to transport Mom "up hill and down dale". When she gets tired you can wisk her away. There are some awesome Agritourisimos in that area. You can stay at "one each", and use the car to do day trips to many of the other hill towns. The personal conection at the agri's cannot be beat. Some offer wonderful home cooked meals; some have cooking classes. I think that Mom could have a great time at one, and you could also use them as a base to explore. But most require a car. We generally use VRBO to book our apt rentals in the EU, but allso have great luck with Homelidays.com. Make sure you know what floor the apt is on, and if they have an elevator. And, don't forget that Mom is going to have to negotiate lots of cobblestone streets; which can be hard on feet and legs of even her young daughter! Shoes are going to be an important part of this adventure.

Posted by
7737 posts

I cannot stand by while aspersions are cast at La Serenissima (Venice). :-) Actually, I've heard that people who love Florence tend not to care for Venice and vice versa. Me, I'm a huge Venice fan and wouldn't have trouble at all enjoying it for a week. There are amazing museums, churches and other places to see art in the most beautiful setting on earth, plus easy daytrips to Verona, Padua and Vicenza. Florence didn't appeal to me as much as a city but holy cow it sure has a lot of art. I've seen one estimate that one fifth of the world's art treasures are in Florence. The source was probably the Chamber of Commerce of Florence, but no one can argue that it's one of the world's most important art centers. Anyway, this just goes to show that there is no one size fits all approach when it comes to travel. Have a great time.

Posted by
244 posts

Two years ago my beloved and I went to Italy for 15 days in May. I planned the entire trip, from airfare booking, rooms, etc to departure, in 6 days. Here is what I can share with you: I used Craigslist. I placed ads on the temporary/sublets wanted sections looking for places in Rome and Florence. I got some crazy responses from scammers in Nigeria, but generally when you're working with a very close timeline they know that they can't make a scam work. I also got a response from a 60 something year old american music professor who lived in Rome with an apartment to rent. We stayed there for eight days. It was wonderful, near Termini (OK, it's not Beverly Hills. But if you want Beverly Hills, go there) From my Florence ad I got a response from an american couple who lived in a 15th century farm house outside Mt. San Sevino. We went there for 3 days on our way to Florence. We stayed for 6 days, skipped Florence, and never looked back. Craigslist is full of scammers. Our best ally was that this was all going to happen in 6 days. I insisted on talking to people on the phone. Placing the ad allowed people who had space to contact us. Two years ago, in 2009, I arranged 15 nights of wonderful lodging for about $800. That did not suck. PM me if you want to chat more.

Posted by
4407 posts

"...this trip is about mom..." Fantastic :-) FWIW, I won't go back to Venice UNTIL I can devote at least a week to it; it's a very hard place to hit for just a few days because of the crowds...with a week or more, you can spend more time away from the crowds when necessary (middle of the day) and feel free to explore the rest of the town and nearby areas. It's a great base for daytrips! If things are getting to you, just hop on a train and leave for a little while. Ditto for Florence - I'd LOVE two weeks! I'd love one week! Lots to daytrip to from there, too, if you start feeling like you're ready to move on, and accessible by train/bus, too. I understand that having a car might be easier for you mother, BUT if you're planted in one place for a week or two, you can just take a few hours out of the middle of the day for your daytrips because you don't feel pressured to 'fit everything in' in just a few days (meaning, she won't be likely to get 'pooped out' at that pace!). (cont.)

Posted by
4407 posts

(cont.) Does she want/not want to revisit any of the places she went to before? What cities are you flying into/out of? I would throw out Siena and area, Sorrento and area, Rome, maybe the Lake Como area if that appeals to you. Do either of you watch Rick Steves' travel programs? If you want access to all of them, go to: http://www.youtube.com/user/RickSteves (first, make sure your speakers aren't turned up too loudly...) I second the recommendation to get RS "Italy 2011" ASAP! I would also recommend his "Europe through the Back Door" book because it explains the travel skills you'll need for traveling through Europe. It's a bit pricey, but it's also not a buy-a-new-one-every-year type of book; it'll last you for many years to come...you'll probably save the $$$ spent on the book by using just one of his tips. Do either of you have any other interests - gardens, history, 'communing with nature', NOT 'communing with nature' LOL, etc.? Are you artists, photographers, wine lovers? Do you want to be on the ocean, or stay within the rolling hills of Tuscany? Things to think about...quickly ;-) And ditto everything already mentioned, esp. the elevator and the shoes (I strongly suggest two pairs each of thick-soled, supportive shoes to alternate every so many days). Your trip sounds wonderful!

Posted by
3 posts

I just want to thank people for the suggestions and ideas. I haven't put my mind on flight details yet as I thought that I'd better first figure out where we were actually going! Rome looks like it is now a contender for at least a week. I am still putting out feelers on vrbo for accommodations in Florence and Venice, but haven't looked into other towns as of yet. There is also the possibility of a mid June visit to Ischia as some friends are renting a house and have invited us to visit. I'm sure that no matter where we go, it will be marvelous, but need to decide where to go..especially for the "Tuscany and/or Umbria hilltown " experience. We enjoy gardens, wine, food, cafes, and just wandering ( in addition to mom's passion for Art). Thank again for the ideas and recommendation, please do keep them coming.

Posted by
3 posts

I have the RS Italy 2010; should I upgrade to 2011? I am sifting through vrbo responses for Florence. Thought that I would try and nail this down first, and then piece together the other bits. I need to talk to mom about deciding on how long for Venice, then can find the hilltown experience, and possibly Rome. Flight details can then follow. I hadn't realized Florence was so over run with tourists. I had the luxury of spending 3.5 weeks last July in Paris and while I could certainly count on areas that would be heavily touristed, I was for the most part, able to avoid them. I was hoping Florence might be the same. I am finding all of this a wee bit overwhelming. Still not sure about renting a car, but I suppose that I am open to it.
Thanks again for all of the suggestions and tips!

Posted by
931 posts

Here is a link where Rick talks about hill towns: http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/ctlitaly_hilltowns.htm We loved visiting the Umbrian Hill town of Assisi. I would not hestitate staying overnite there. Two seperate couples that we know have stayed in Todi, a much smaller town. They loved it. Last year we stayed in an agri a few miles outside of Orvieto, and drove into Orvieto each nite for dinner. It is a great hill town with easy train access. Some people that we met loved a local B&B there, and used it as their exploration base. In Tuscany we stayed in an agri a few miles outside of the smaller hill town of Panzano. Our friends stayed closer and we all made use of the great restaurants in town. We visited Montalcino and Montepulciano and San Gimignano. San Gimignano deserves a look as a great hill town to stay in. When we visited Florence we based ourselves in Siena. It was quick bus ride to Florence on clean and spacious busses. Siena is magical at nite. The Passigiata is so much fun. Whe you pick a small town as a "possible", check and see if it has a "town"website. Some of these are great sources of info, and offer some lodging choices that are not available elsewhere. Have fun!

Posted by
253 posts

The short notice may be a problem on getting accommodations in some of the more popular hilltowns, if you haven't gotten them already. Apartments are a great option for travelling in Italy, but you have to be diligent in getting one in smaller towns. Florence for a week is about all you will stand. Great art, but the crowds are just daunting after a while. This is also true of Venice, but you can find secluded spots everywhere there. Just the touristy places are overwhelmed most of the time. Some off the beaten track suggestions for smaller Italian towns - Sirmione on Lake Garda (one of our favorite little, but popular, stays - look it up. Busy during the day, but you have town to yourself in the evenings.) Bergamo, outside of Milan - actually a hilltown for the foothills of the Alps. Siena was suggested already and I concur. This is a great town of the right size and is best at night. An apartment in Rome for a week may be the best part of your trip. We stayed in Trastevere, across the river and the tram takes you over to the sights each day, while the neighborhood is outstanding to stay in.

Posted by
931 posts

...so go to Siena .....and check out the apts on VRBO and Homelidays. You and Mom will love Siena!

Posted by
2030 posts

Huge Venice fan also. Great art there, and the whole city is a work of art....
I also enjoyed staying in a rental apartment in Cortona for a week. Very charming and relaxed place. Easy train ride to Orvieto, which is very nice also, and if you get up early you can get train to Florence also. though if your mom in into art she may want to spend time more near Florence.

Posted by
253 posts

Uh oh. Lamonde, not only is Florence overrun with tourists, you almost HAVE to get reservations for the Uffizi and possibly the Accademia to avoid extensively long waits in lines. You and your mom are not the only ones who will be there from the U.S. and wanting to see the art. There have been times we visited Florence when I swear there were more Americans wandering around then Italians. The days of just throwing some things in a suitcase and hopping a plane are disappearing. But with some planning ahead, it all can work out. I know, the philosophy of some is to just go and see what happens, but with your mom in tow, this is not the way for you to approach it.

Posted by
7737 posts

Since you've got the 2010 book, I probably wouldn't bother upgrading to the 2011. (Heresy, I know.) But you would be surprised how many people will pick up a five year old book at a garage sale and think it's just as good. But do consider investing in the city-specific books for Rome, Venice and Florence/Tuscany. They have really good self-guided tours as well as great info on daytrips. And here's another plug for Rome - Michelangelo's Pieta', the Sistine Chapel, and all the art that the Vatican has collected over the centuries in the Vatican Museum. Throw in the Borghese Gallery with its Berninis and Caravaggios. Now add charming cafes, great restaurants, and all the ancient Roman sites. Now put all that in a wonderfully concentrated city that's very walkable and can be taken at any pace. That's Rome. :-)