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Need Help with Southern Italy Road Trip Logistics

We are a couple flying round trip to Rome in September. Renting a car for 21 days. Upon arrival we drive south and stay 2 nights in Matera, then 5-7 nights in the southern tip of Puglia at Marina del Gregorio. This part will be with our children and grandchildren. After that, we are on our own for 13-15 nights. (The kids are leaving early so we have option of last two nights stay in MdG or depart with them, villa is rented for 7 nights.) We are Lucky dogs!

So we have quite a few options. During the week with the kids, we will explore Puglia northward up to Bari area.
We are thinking of then traveling, via Calabria, to Sicily. We will have a car the entire trip (returning to Rome at the end). I have confirmed with Auto Europe that we can definitely take the Avis car via ferry to Sicily.

So, what is feasible with 13-15 nights after the southern tip of Puglia? Here's what we thought (we like to spend minimum 3 nights in any given place, but will shorten that if necessary to avoid ridiculous driving days). The thing is, I'm finding all kinds of advice about driving distances taking much longer than google estimates.

How does this sound for starters:
2-3 nights in Calabria (read a post that says lovely towns are Scilla, Pizzo, Tropea - do you agree? Which one?)
ferry to Sicily, then begin a counter clockwise trip:
3 nights in Cefalu (we are beach people)
park the car and 2-3 nights in Palermo;
then begin the round Sicily trip. Areas of interest include: Trapani, Agrigento & valley of the Temples, Ragusa, Siracusa. Not sure if we want to visit Mount Etna and Taormina, but we will have to take that car back to Rome for at least one night before our return home.

I am having trouble visualizing the scope of the driving part. Is it reasonable to think that we can explore Sicily in 13 nights, saving one travel day and night to return to Rome airport? Thank you for help and tips from anyone who experienced this. We don't want to drive more than 4-5 hours on travel days. We enjoy food, small villages, art, wandering the streets. We also plan to rent a boat with the family while in Marina san Gregorio..

If you think that Sicily is too much for us, then we can also change to a different region after Puglia. More of Calabria, then on to perhaps Abruzzo and/or northern Puglia?

Any and all opinions are welcome!

P.S. Don't tell me to change the rental car and fly to Rome from Catania, because we got such a good deal on air and car we must drive back to Rome. In retrospect, might not have done this, but would not be affordable to change it up now.

Posted by
267 posts

Meant to add: this will be our fourth trip to Italy. We have visited Rome, Amalfi coast, Tuscany, Cuomo, Florence and Venice, Cinque Terre, Umbria previously.

Posted by
7322 posts

The ferries between Palermo and Civitavecchia (or Naples, but less ideal) could save you the long drive back to Rome, and they run overnight so they are time-efficient.
This would imply finishing your Sicily tour with Palermo.
I would skip western Sicily for time reasons: plenty to see and do in the east and south already.

Never been to Calabria so cannot help with that.

Posted by
267 posts

Thanks Balso.
Just checked, and it seems like we would have to take that ferry either five days before our departure from Rome (at 6 PM) or two days prior at 2 AM. 2AM??? That's pretty weird - we'd have to give up our hotel the day before, then wait and wait.. 268 euros with a cabin...

Posted by
7322 posts

Look at timings to Naples, it still shortens the drive and they could be more suited to your needs that the ferry to Civitavecchia.
If it does not work: then perhaps keep the Calabria stopovers for the return leg to Rome? You can drive from Puglia to the ferry crossing at Villa San Giovanni in less than 6 hours - then Taormina is a short drive on the other side - so you do not need a stopover on that leg.

Posted by
1605 posts

When we drove to and around Sicily 21 years ago, we spent the night in Scilla, Calabria, took the ferry the next morning, and drove to the villa we rented for a week near Enna. Then we stayed in Noto and Scopello for a few nights. So, 12 nights. Flew home from Palermo. Skipped seeing western Sicily, but it's our plan to return to Sicily next spring for 5 weeks.

From these three bases, we easily visited Villa Romana del Casale, Santo Stefano di Camastra (for the town's unique ceramics), Agrigento, Palermo (briefly) and Monreale, and also various towns that are a bit of a blur now but certainly Ragusa, Siracusa, and Caltagirone, and went up Mount Etna (which was erupting so we couldn't go all the way to the very top).

We loved our villa near Enna, but would not do that again --- better to stay at three towns on the coast, as you seem to be planning. We spent too much time driving from the middle of Sicily out to coastal towns.

Not sure what to tell you about Puglia vs Sicily vs other regions. Both Puglia and Sicily could use several weeks each. We are partial to staying in one region and really getting to know it and spend less time traveling from one part of Italy to another. But, yeah, I definitely also feel the temptation to add Sicily to Puglia. Full disclosure: we drove to Sicily from VENICE.

Posted by
3812 posts

or two days prior at 2 AM. 2AM???

Which company sails at 2 AM? It's Not GNV and SNAV quit offering that route.

Posted by
267 posts

OK, you have both given me alot to think about.

Perhaps take our time - and limit ourselves to the south and east part of Sicily. We really enjoy smaller towns, although Palermo sounds fascinating...maybe save that for next time, and explore more of Calabria on either end of the Sicily part.

How about, for Sicily, 3-4 nights (give or take) each for Cefalu, Siracusa, and what else? Agrigento? The temples look like a romantic view, but would staying in Agrigento town be good? Is there charm (and cafes)?

And I'm seeing some gorgeous waterview apartments on the western side of Calabria...
Thank you.

Posted by
7322 posts

There is no need to stay more than 1-2 nights in Agrigento. The town is relatively charming once you get past the modern buildings around it, but the main draw is really the Valle dei Templi.
So you could have some time for Palermo, especially if you keep your stay in Cefalu short (remember, you'll have had plenty of beach time in Puglia already). Or you could spend 1-2 nights in Modica or Ragusa, which are quite charming towns between Siracusa and Agrigento.

Posted by
267 posts

Darlo, it says "GNV" and it does say 02:00 with 15:45 arrival in Civitavecchia. ssl.directferries.com