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Narrowing down itinerary to Northern Italy & Florence

My husband and I are planning to visit Northern Italy and Florence for 2 weeks in May/June 2020. We have an ambitious wish list of cities and towns to visit and need to narrow it down with this Forum's help. We don't want to rush through 2 weeks. A few things to note . . . we love history, learning about a culture, architecture, museums, hiking/walks and would like to take an Italian cooking class. We like to see the main sights but also would like to get off the beaten path and get to know a city/area and the Italian culture. Also, we'll figure out travel by train versus by car once we have this itinerary narrowed down. We know we can't do all the locations below in 2 weeks (nor do we want to), we just don't know where to cut back. Your feedback is most welcome!

Fly in and out of Milan.
Turin and Aosta - we have Italian friends who live in these two areas. Hiking around Aosta and even the Italian side of the Mont Blanc is tempting!
Milan (spend 1 full day/2 nights)
Lake Como area staying in Varenna (2 days/3 nights)
Dolomites (3 days/4 nights) we'd like to hike there either via day trips out of Bolzano/Castelrotto or a 3-day hike staying at rifugios.
Venice (1 day/2 nights) - it's been recommended to overnight outside of Venice and take the train to Venice for the day.
Verona (1 day/2 nights)
Genoa (1 day/2 nights)
Cinque Terre (1 day/2 nights) we plan to hike through all 5 towns in one day and then take the train to the next destination.
Florence (3 days/4 nights)

Thank you!

Posted by
2475 posts

I don’t know why you were advised to spend your nights outside of Venice and travel in for the day, but I think you would get a lot more out of it if you stayed in the city. It’s lovely (and uncrowded) to walk around in early morning and evening.

Posted by
11429 posts

Venice (1 day/2 nights) - it's been recommended to overnight outside of Venice and take the train to Venice for the day.

Obviously whoever made this suggestion is not a friend.

Cinque Terre (1 day/2 nights) we plan to hike through all 5 towns in one day and then take the train to the next destination.

Better check, but the trail between some of the towns is under reconstruction from flood damage several years ago

So my $0.02 would be eliminate CT ( you cannot hike through all 5 towns) and that seems to be your motivation for going there.
You are already planning your 'waterfront' experience in Varenna and hiking in the mountains
Verona and Genoa would be the other two I would ax from your list to get you down to the number of nights you have available.

Posted by
1049 posts

That's a lot of packing and unpacking, getting to train and getting to hotel. Not sure I (can only speak for myself - for you it's a question) would find that time as taking away from my vacation. No comment on Milan because I seem to avoid the place. Varenna is beautiful although 3 nights were a bit much when I was there. The Dolomites are beautiful and Castelrotto is a great homebase for hiking. 4 nights? Maybe 3? Venice (do not stay in Mestri!!!) is my favorite and they have to put me on the train kicking and screaming after a full week's stay. You can squeeze Verona into a day if you must. I usually spend at least 3 nights there. Genoa? Why? Cinque Terre? It could be done as a day trip from Florence (along with other day trips to Siena, Pisa, Lucca). That would at least save you a packing/unpacking day.

If you can cut back on travel days I think you would enjoy each place more. In Italy daytime and nighttime are so completely different in so many wonderful ways. Remember you will be there when the weather can be hot and humid, especially in Florence. That will slow you down . . . a lot.

Posted by
573 posts

I suggest trying to prioritize the places you want to see first and then go from there. For example, how important is it to visit your friends in Turin? If very, then by all means put that on the list. Looks like you like to hike a lot, so perhaps you can satisfy the hiking need with just one or two places, rather than the 3 possible locations you list. I can't speak for myself, but hiking all 5 towns in the Cinque Terre in one day seems like a lot.
You may want to consider adding another night to Venice and take it from one of your less-prioritized stops.
I certainly support the notion of going to Florence, as it's my favorite Italian city. I think your plan of 3 days/4 nights there is reasonable.
Once you've prioritized your cities, then plot out the visits there on a map so you minimize any back-tracking. Consider planning your Milan tour days at the end of the trip since you have to go there anyway to get home.
Sounds like a wonderful trip!

Posted by
16774 posts

I will be back with more comments, but I just want to quickly point out that you cannot hike all 5 Cinque Terre villages. The trails between Riomaggiore and Manarola, and Manarola to Corniglia, are closed until at least 2021.

https://www.incinqueterre.com/en/trail-number2-blue

You could take the train to Corniglia, and hike Corniglia—-Vernazza—-Monterosso.

Posted by
25 posts

Inbsig - the rationale for staying outside Venice was for cost savings. Thanks for suggesting the early morning and evening walks. Wouldn't have thought of that!

Joe32F - We'll definitely reconsider overnighting in Venice. I'll probe further into the walking trails in CT for closures to consider including it or not. Thanks for your other feedback too. So helpful!

Robert - You're right about the packing and unpacking - it really will be a lot. We will definitely think about how to economize our travel days and maximize the experience of enjoying the locations we visit. Thank you for your tips!

Kathy H - Such helpful advice about prioritizing and visiting Milan at the end! We will put your advice to work.

I so appreciate your expert opinions!
Elizabeth

Posted by
25 posts

Lola - I didn't realize there were trail closures at CT. I just went online to read more about it. Thanks and I look forward to your other thoughts about our wish list itinerary!
Elizabeth

Posted by
7529 posts

Have you used Google Maps to calculate distances yet? The train times on Google aren't as reliable, so you need to use the Trenitalia website to show real times for anything over an hour. Do you have Ricks Italy book yet?

Posted by
25 posts

Hi Tim,
I put together a table of drive/train travel distances using Google Maps. I'm glad to know about the Trenitalia website - will check that out. I've referred to one Italy guide book a friend lent me and will be getting Rick's guide at the library this week.
Thanks!
Elizabeth

Posted by
16774 posts

Taking your wish list in order:

Turin/Torino: we have not been, but this is my sister’s favorite place in Italy. They have been all over Italy from Sicily to Sardinia in 6 trips, plus she studied in Florence while in college. So naming a favorite carries a lot of weight with me. One thing you could do there is visit the amazing Forte di Fenestrelle, the so-called “Great Wall of the Alps.”

https://curiosity.com/topics/italys-fenestrelle-fortress-is-known-as-the-great-wall-of-the-alps-curiosity/

https://www.fortedifenestrelle.it/

I am going to try to find a way to add this to our own trip next July.

Aosta/Mont Blanc: you should consult with your friends regarding the availability of snow-free hiking in late May/early June. When we hiked the Tour du Mont Blanc in 2018, our guide mentioned that the early June trips she guides often have to be altered or detoured because of snow. We will be hiking with her in Gran Paradiso National Parc (just south of Turin) next summer, and she doesn’t want to go before the third week of July.

Milan & Varenna: I would put this at the end, giving you a day there before flying home. When you land, go straight to Varenna, as late May is a good time. We have stayed several times at Albergo Milano, in the large top-floor room in Casa Rossa, separate from the main hotel. This room is large and bright, with a huge balcony overlooking the lake, and a kitchen corner in case you wish to make a simple meal (breakfast at the main hotel is included, however). There is no elevator so you have to walk up to the 3rd of 4th floor, but you are hikers so should have no trouble with that.

There is an excellent cooking class you can do at Varenna, run by Chef Moreno at Il Caminetto, a restaurant above town. They will pick you up in Varenna and drive you there, and return you to Varenna or, as we did, to the Castel Vecchio where you can look around the ruins and maybe catch the falconry exhibit before walking back to town. His recipes and techniques are simple but very tasty——something we use at home.

Dolomites: if you want to hike, don’t stay in Bolzano. Stay in Castelrotto or better yet Val Gardena or up on Alpe di Siusi. Early June may or may not be early for completely snow-free hiking, but there should be at least some trails fully open. I see that Refugio Bolzano/Schlernhuette above Alpe di Siusi opens June 1, so that should be an indicator. But tha later you can put this stop, the better. Which brings me to . . .

Venice. This fits best after Turin and before the Dolomites. If you are going to spend 2 nights here (as you should), stay IN Venice as others have advised. It is false economy to stay elsewhere (like Mestre) to save a few euros. Venice is at her best in the morning and evening, and you will maximize your time and enjoyment by eliminating the commute from elsewhere and sleep on the island. Not all accommodations are expensive; you might consider extending your stay to 3 nights and getting an apartment through AirBnB or an agency (we rent from Venice Red House which is local and less expensive than the better-known Views on Venice and others).

Verona comes next, and would be on your way to the Dolomites if you travel by train. I would not skip Verona. It is lovely and full of history: the whole city is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Two nights are enough. You should be there before opera season starts, so hotels are less expensive.

I would skip Genoa and Cinque Terre and head straight to Florence from Verona. That gives you a total of 6 stops in your two weeks, which I do not consider excessive. (Turin, Varenna, Venice, Dolomites, Verona, Florence). Oh, I guess you have to add a night in Milan. . . . If you do feel the need to drop another stop, I guess I would suggest Verona. And shorten your time in Florence to 3 nights, not 4, which you don’t need if you skip the Cinque Terre.

Posted by
245 posts

I'd skip Genoa and CT, and spend a day or two (or more) in Padua. An amazing old city.

Posted by
16032 posts

Elizabeth, this is the OFFICIAL Cinque Terre park website:

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Eindex.php

This is the section which indicates which trails are closed at any given point:
http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Esentieri-outdoor.php

If you were planning to "hike through all 5 towns in one day** you were likely looking at the 4 segments of the SVA2 trail, two of which have been closed for years now with no clear date when they'll be open again. So, Monterosso> Vernazza > Corniglia will likely be the best you can do unless either or both of those listed legs are also closed to damage or bad weather.So, no, you're not going to "hike through all 5 towns in one day. And what if the one day you've allotted for this is pouring rain so the trails which are usually opened are closed?

Other than that I'd say you have WAY too many 2-night stays on your itinerary. I can't tell you what to cut, as your interests and mine may not be the same, but changing destinations eats up more time than than you think it will. Based on your interest list, I think you're cutting Venice short. And honestly, with just two weeks, you're not going to get off the beaten and or absorb much for culture at all. No problem: it's perfectly OK to be a tourist, and that's what you'll be unless you speak the language and have months versus 2 days to spend in one spot.

Posted by
25 posts

Lola / Chiara / Kathy - This is exactly the kind of feedback we need! You've given us more to think about as we refine our itinerary. We need to consider the accessibility to trails in the Alps and Dolomites, further refine what's a priority, and consider length of stay in each location.

Elizabeth

Posted by
2475 posts

One thing you might want to look into for accommodations in Venice (and perhaps elsewhere as well) is booking a room in a monastery or convent, which you can do through monasterystays.com. It would definitely help keep costs down in Venice, and is also quite interesting.

Posted by
3039 posts

Two nights in Milan - on day two visit Lake Como.
Two nights in the Dolomites - take a train to Verona and store bags at the train station and tour the town. Go back to the station and grab bags and continue journey to Bolzano. Sleep in Bolzano. On day two take a bus to Kastlerotto and catch the bus to the Dolomites. On your way back tour Kastlerotto and bus back to Bolzano. Sleep in Bolzano.
Two nights in Venice - take train to Padua and visit the Scrovegni Chapel and the town before continuing your journey to the lagoon. You do not want to sleep in the car trodden city where herds of organized tourists sleep.
Four nights in Florence - and that includes a day trip to Florence one day and a cooking class another day.
Three nights in the Cinque Terre - but first stop in Pisa and store your bags so you can visit the leaning tower of Pisa. Grab your bags and catch the next train to Monterosso. Sleep in Monterosso.
One night in Milan.

Posted by
16032 posts

Elizabeth, backing up to the C.T again, I'd still probably cut it from the itinerary to give other locations more time but should you decide to keep it, you can see from the website I provided you that there are many other trails in the system besides the overloaded SVA2 (Blue Trail/ Sentiero Azzurro) route. It's just that a lot of them are longer and even more strenuous so it would be difficult to string enough OPEN paths together to hit all 5 villages in a single day.

But that's not really an issue. You can, say, do the Monterosso>Vernazza>Corniglia legs of the "Blue" and then catch trains to Manarola and Riomaggiore. This region - most-hiked trails, trains and villages - is going to be very, very busy in late May/early June though, and you still risk your one day being a wet one if that's all you can give it. The trails are not safe when wet so they do close them for rain.

Posted by
25 posts

Kathy - After reading the CT website, the info you provided, and considering other feedback we've received, we do plan to cut out Cinque Terre for this trip. This is our first trip to Italy and definitely won't be our last! Thank you for your guidance.

Posted by
245 posts

After reading the CT website, the info you provided, and considering other feedback we've received, we do plan to cut out Cinque Terre for this trip

Yeah, once I looked at the website and the closures, I too cut CT from my plans. Unfortunately I left in Genoa, but I wish I'd spent those 5 days elsewhere - a day or two in Genoa would have been more than enough.

Posted by
4603 posts

I think if you eliminate CT (done), plus Genoa and Florence, then you have a healthy list for two weeks. Trip two can encompass those areas.
I have never regretted staying anywhere longer than I initially thought I would--I think it is important to make sure you have 4-5 nights at some point to soak it all in, recharge, do laundry, etc. I'd especially take advantage of having friends in places to show you around!