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Naples - to go or not to go?

My husband and I are going to Italy November 17th - 27th. Our first five nights will be in Rome. For the next three nights I was thinking of staying in Naples and visiting Pompeii and another day possibly do a Sorrento/Amalfi coast bus trip. Here's my question - everyone on here says that Naples is dirty and gross. Should I bother or should we stay in Sorrento instead (I read that this is what Rick likes to do)? My only concern is that we like to go out to bars, etc in the evening and I am afraid that since it's the off season, Sorrento will be like a ghost town. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks

Posted by
582 posts

I would say to give Naples a chance, if you are there only a short time. When someone says they don't like a place, I never listen. People here hate Milan. People that post on the tripadvisor forum, love Milan a lot! We are all so different, and we need to find these things out for ourselves. If you were staying in Naples for a number of days, that would be a risk if you are unsure of how you would like Naples. If you do spend three days in Naples, there are wonderful side trips you can take from there if you don't like Naples. Check out the tours that leave from Naples. Sorrento would be a great trip, and I'm sure you will get some answers here about Sorrento this time of year. Also, ask at tripadvisor. You can also email Rick Steves staff to ask. I have asked questions to the staff, and they are just wonderful. They know so much! I'm sure whatever you decide to do, you will have a wonderful time! I'm going to Italy myself in 2 1/2 weeks!!!

Posted by
174 posts

I was there last weekend for about 3 hours and that was more than enough. Funny thing about our quick lunch break - the Prime Minister was there, and all of the police in Naples were around the main square to provide a blockade...the people of Naples acted as if he wasn't even there. Where in the US we would have a line of people waving to the motorcade - there were literally 5 people watching, and one guy clapping. We found it funny.

Naples wasn't my favorite. The pizza was great, but the town itself was unappealing to me.

Posted by
104 posts

Hi Jen,

I was in Naples this summer, and I really did not enjoy it either. The city is dirty and the traffic is the craziest thing I have ever seen in my life. However, the sights in and around Naples are really amazing. The archaeological museum was great, especially since I went there before I went to Pompeii, so then Pompeii was more meaningful, since I had the background information. Pompeii is a must, and I went to Positano, which is beautiful. So, even though I did not like Naples, I would still definitely visit the area. If others here say that Sorrento is slow in the off-season, then I would stay in Naples - though I don't know about going to a bar at - I did not feel safe going out at night.

Posted by
534 posts

The overall impression I get is that people seem to say "eh" about Naples but LOOOOVVVE Orvieto. I have not been to either. But if I were you, I would go with the populous on this one. Oh and if you like to go out for a drink - I doubt any town is that much of a ghost town that you can't find a place to have a drink out.

Posted by
32352 posts

Jen,

I was in Naples in May (with a RS tour), and had a wonderful time. The area surrounding the Hotel was nice, with lots of small restaurants and a really nice "upscale" Bar right on the corner (at the end of via Chiaia, close to Piazza Plebiscito).

I did a fair amount of walking about, and didn't have the impression that it was "dirty and gross". However, I suspect there are neighborhoods where that might be true. There seemed to be a lot of trash piles evident in some of the nearby communities (Torre del Greco is one example).

The Archeological Museum is excellent and certainly worth a visit. If your budget allows, I'd highly recommend a tour with one of the private Guides listed in Rick's book.

It's also a convenient location for a day trip to Sorrento. If you're planning on a short visit to Pompeii, it might be a good idea to check the website as I'm not sure what opening/closing days they operate in the Fall. A Guide at Pompeii would also be good, as they provide so much detail about the history of the site and it's really nice to be able to ask questions.

Of course, like anywhere else in Europe be sure to wear your Money Belt and be aware of those around you. I tended to stay in the neighborhood close to the Hotel at nights, and never had any problems.

Happy travels!

Posted by
2083 posts

We just returned from a month in Italy. We did not stay in Naples, having heard what you did, and from what we saw of it I was glad of it. Pompeii and Herculaneum were our main objectives, which we did easily from Sorrento. The Circumvesuviana runs about twice an hour from Sorrento and gets you to these sights in about 45 minutes or so. We stayed at the Mignon Meuble Hotel in Sorrento...clean, center of town, nice breakfast, free internet access, and very convenient for our needs. Also, we took the boat one day from Sorrento to Positano and back rather than the bus...it was fun. Can't say what Nov will be like, but the citrus tree forests suggest it can't be too cold and I imagine there will still be 1000 or so Brits there to keep the bars humming...they seem to like this place :-)

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks everyone for all of your help - I am still a bit torn but this has helped me a ton.

Thanks!
:) jen

Posted by
252 posts

Naples IS dirty. Naples definitely CAN be gross. But, is that the type of thing that can ruin a trip for you? If so, avoid it or just make it a day trip from Sorrento. If not, enjoy everything it has to offer and watch out for the doggie land mines while you walk!

There are FAR FAR FAR FAR dirtier cities than Naples that are popular tourist destinations. Perhaps people just expect more because Naples is in Western Europe.

Posted by
636 posts

We chose to base ourselves in Sorrento (in July) and visit Naples as a day trip. We took the hydrofoil over, strolled the streets, ate pizza, went to the National Archaeological Museum (having done Pompeii 2 days prior), strolled back to the marina, and took the regular ferry back (much less expensive than the hydrofoil, plus the hydrofoil had stopped running for the day).

We did not find Naples to be dirty or gross. In fact, I was impressed by how clean the streets were, how frequently we saw trash cans, and how much it's just like a typical large city. Crossing the street was definitely an experience, but otherwise, it didn't stand out in any negative way.

But, if your hesitation about not staying in Naples is due to the potential lack of night life in Sorrento, I'm sorry, but I can't help you there, not being aware of what Sorrento is like in the Fall.

Posted by
466 posts

The thing that I like about Naples is that is reminds me of what italy was in the past.......before it got so touristic. You can still see the older ladies talking from window to window or street level to a few floors up. Kids kicking around the soccer ball in the street. Laundry hanging from building to building. It's not Rome, Venice or Florence but it is fun and I'm glad that I went!!!

Posted by
192 posts

There is nothing wrong with Naples - it is just not real touristy. It is a large, bustling city. But if your only reason to go there is because you think Sorrento will be a ghost town, you don't have to worry. There are plenty of bars in Sorrento and they will be open. Less tourists but plenty of locals.