Naples is awesome

Terrific report, edwardius! Very pleased to hear that you've found this often maligned city to your liking. I've only been through it en-route to another destination, and have heard/read enough positives to want to spend some quality time there in the future. Based on your experience, what would you recommend visitors do and see there? What did you most enjoy?

Great enthusiasm for this fantastic city. We agree with everything you describe. It was of our first landings in Italy years ago and the vibe was great.

However, it’s better to promote it as…

… some lawless hellhole where you are going to get your front pockets emptied or beaten up and robbed at high noon

Better chance we’ll have it to ourselves. 😃

After visiting IT seven times I wish I’d spent more time in Naples and visited the heart, the Quartieri Spagnoli during the day. I too have been on the Circumvesuviana and had no issue carrying my purse and backpack but that doesn’t mean I would haul luggage.
The unemployment rate of Naples staggers between 28 to 40% and is considered to be one of the poorest cities in Europe. When I stood in line at Naples Beverello to take the ferry to Sorrento a guy walked up behind me and unzipped my backpack. A friend I was traveling with quickly handed a woman he was with five euros and said “keep him away from us” and it worked.

I’m happy to read this as we’re planning a 6 night stay in February. Can you tell us where you stayed? I’m looking for an apartment right now and am not sure which area to choose.

The arguments appear to be: There is trash on the street (so what? It's like philly) there's graffiti (so what? There's graffiti in every urban area in the US), there are sketchy people (so just like every other city). So what's the problem?

I don't like those aspects of American cities (or any other) so that's one reason I didn't like Naples. There are far nicer places in Italy for me to spend my time. I didn't feel afraid or on edge in Naples, I just didn't find it a pleasant place to visit and I can see why others may feel the same but each to their own.

So great to hear of another person who loved Naples!
I've spent two vacations there: one for a whole week, and one for five days.
SO much to see and do.
It's also a photographer's dream.
It's a busy working city full of ordinary people...friendly people in my experience, and I love it too.
Everyone is different, otherwise we'd all be crowding into the same place at the same time!

Traveling solo I spent 3 full days in Naples mid-September before flying to Sicily for the RS tour. I'm glad I did! It would be an intense experience as your first destination on your first trip to Italy but this was my fourth Italy trip. Yes there's graffiti. Yes the traffic is intense. I stayed in the historic quarter and am very glad I did. I loved walking out my hotel door and being steps away from Spacca Napoli. My room at Decumani Hotel de Charme was the quietest hotel room I've every had. I always doubled my walking time to any destination in the historic quarter because I kept wandering off course as I navigated the maze of streets. I loved it and never felt unsafe. I did hire Pina Esposito (recommended in RS Italy book) as a guide for the museum and the next day for Pompeii and Herculaneum. I'm so glad I did as I got much more out of those tours than I would have on my own. I also highly recommend taking a food tour with Culinary Backstreets. Great value, local culture, wonderful food. As a solo traveler I love food tours so I get to eat a wider variety of local food. And if you're wondering I'm a 72 year old woman.

I've been to Naples only once, on my first trip to Italy years ago. I was scared away from staying over in Naples too at the time, so I stayed two nights in Sorrento (which I disliked) instead as a base to visit Pompeii. I did a day trip to Naples for a few hours to visit the museum after Pompeii...and I too really liked Naples and regretted not staying there - I'm sure I would have liked it better than Sorrento. Naples is definitely on my list of "must go back to someday."

Agree with you post edwardius. My wife and I and adult son were there last fall for 3 nights. Absolutely loved it. Besides all you said we found the food fabulous. It is true that it is hectic and not a relaxing place .... and can be a bit messy but just make sure you have a quiet room to retreat to when you have had enough for the day. Can't wait to come back.

We loved our brief 3 days visit 4 years ago and vowed to return and will next month for 7 days.

Agree wholeheartedly that it is an under appreciated city. We were particularly intrigued by the history, the neighbourhoods and street atmosphere were fascinating but MOST importantly we noted in our brief stay was the pride of the Neapolitans for their city and their warmth and graciousness.

Having travelled to a range of cities and towns in Europe, the US and Canada, we found it to be unique. It is not a ‘polished’ city and won’t appeal to everyone but if you are thinking about it, go there.

het hey edwardius
totally agree with your observations. my first trip to italy "rome" years back. i was determined to ride a fast train, friend says no time, and i said i'll go by myself. we both got on early train to naples and spent the day, it was fabulous. yes there's garbage, very gritty but that makes the city. the food was yummy, walking down the alleys to window shop and buy things was fun, used our hands to communicate and we all laughed. saw a market shop owner grab a basket dropped down by rope from older resident with euros inside. he shopped for her and raised basket back up to her, personal shopper was fabulous. walking piazzas had the "carbinieris" cops everywhere with their tanks, uzis, rifles on patrol, got a picture of that. people were so friendly and talkative while at cafes,
i would go back in minute. widen your horizons about places in italy, known for different aspects/culture of life. back on the train to rome, we laughed so much and have great memories of that day
many people feel the same way about milan.
so happy about your post, thanks
aloha

People seem to respond negatively to so many unsubstantiated reports. On our previous trip 2019, we landed in Naples in heavy rain and spent 3 nights there without any problems. We were staying about a block back from the waterfront and about halfway between the ferry dock and the main train station.
Day 1 spent at the archeological museum and then wandering around the town, nibbling & eating. Day 2 we went by train to Heraculaneum and then by bus up to Vesuvius and returned similarly. We stopped at a sidewalk cafe / bar for a drink before returning to our room. Day 3 was to the ferry dock and caught the ferry to Capri for 2 nights.
No problems.
If you think that the garbage in the streets of Naples is a problem then never go to Mumbai. It is an order of magnitude worse. My wife was concerned about reports of crime in Barcelona, so we only stayed 2 nights and later she wished that we had stayed at least 1 more day. Similarly we’ve avoided Rome, on our previous 3 trips but this time we flew into Rome and will fly out from Rome for a total of 5 nights. It wasn’t any problem for our first 2 days. It was very crowded.
So just relax but take care.

Excited to read this will be there for only 1 day but looking forward to it. Thanks for posting

Couldn’t agree more. I spent precious little time there, but Naples hosts some of my most vivid travel memories. It’s certainly an urban environment, and having a little street savvy helps up the comfort level. But in a city like Naples, you’re never alone. There’s always people out doing all the things all the time, and personally that makes me feel way safer.

I appreciated the sleepiness of Sorrento after a long day of sightseeing, but next time I am staying a couple days in Naples.

So nice to read this. Naples was love at first sight for my husband and me. Sure, the city is gritty in spots. But it’s so alive. We loved it and are eager to return.

Not sure if I am as enthusiastic about the place as the OP, but it is a fine place to spend time, some decent food, a few things to see, but yeah, a bit gritty and hectic.

Reminds me of my first trip through the area some 20 years ago, took the ferry from Greece, arriving in Bari, took the train to Naples. Getting to the train in Bari, and on the train, ran into other Americans, who were also heading to Sorrento (and most carrying a RS Guidebook). The topic of getting to the Circumvesuvia and taking it to Sorrento came up, with most feeling some trepidation. I shrugged and said it will be no problem. By the time we arrived in Naples, most had asked if they could walk along with me. I was like a pied piper with a group of about 8 in tow. They felt better, everyone made it OK, so no harm done, just hoped that when they saw there was nothing to fear, they got over it.

We spent two nights in Naples on our recent Rick Steves Southern Italy tour. I was a bit apprehensive after hearing all the stories, but I loved it! We stayed in a hotel very close to the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) and we felt quite at ease wandering the streets. We had a local guide take us on a walking tour and then we had the afternoon and evening on our own. Yes, the Quartieri Spagnoli was crowded and dirty and noisy and traffic everywhere was crazy, but it was also very interesting and full of history. Just to get a different view of Naples, we took the hop-on-hop-off bus and saw some lovely neighborhoods.

We enjoyed our two nights in Naples in 2017. We had two half days and a full day to explore, and would have gladly spent another night or two if we had the time.

Our favorite item large Italian city we are fortunate to visit 3 times a year.