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Naples Archeological Museum and a walk through the city

We will be in Naples on a cruse stop Thursday, April 28, 2023, 7 hr to 19 hr. I've read varying comments on this forum and elsewhere about widely varying impressions of the Archeological Museum. From "its, a relic from the 1950's, not well maintained and many of the pieces normally on exhibit are on loan to museums around the world". Then I read it is a "must see, the exhibits are wonderful, you don't go there for the building that houses the exhibits, and if one visits nothing else in Naples, it must be the Archeological Museum."

So what's the verdict at the current time, and more importantly in April, 2023. Are the artifacts back from loan, if one has only 12 hours in Naples, is the Museum the one stop one must make. We've visited several major "museum" cities in the UK and Europe [London, Paris, Madrid, Florence, Rome], and have always visited the museums and enjoyed each visit to the max.

We are older folks not yet decrepit, but our walking pace is slower than a 30 year old, and after being on our feet for 3 hours or so we're ready for a rest.

With all this said, is the Archeological Museum a worthy visit, and what else would anyone recommend we do in our limited 12 hr visit. I was reading an older [2009] edition of RS Italy and was a bit surprised Naples got only 24 pages out of an 840 page book, [minus appendices] and the third paragraph in the Naples section notes ". . .Italy's grittiest, most polluted and most crime-ridden city." I suppose someone could introduce NYC with similar words, but nonetheless, it is interesting that this made the introduction to Naples. I might add this edition of "Italy" does start the guide to Naples with a visit to the Archeological Museum.

Based on RS' description, a visit to Spaccanapoli seems to have merit. Would a walk from the Archeological Museum down Via Enrico Pessina/Via Toledo to Via Domenico Capitelli through Spaccenapoli up to Via Duomo, a visit to the Duomo, then taking a taxi back to the ship. If my scale interpretation of the Naples map, this is about 2.78 miles or 4,500 meters, is this about right? Any suggestions on places for lunch or a gelato along with way would be appreciated.

Is the walk south from the Archeological Museum on Via Enrico Pessian to Piazza Dante a pleasant one, or is this more a vehicular thoroughfare? Are two slower walking Americans virtually walking with a sandwich board saying "pickpockets we're here". Also, are taxis readily available at the Duomo and is there any special skill required to negotiate a taxi tariff with the driver from the Duomo to the cruise terminal?

Forgive me for so many questions, but in our several travels to Italy, all have been Rome and north except for a one day trip from Sorrento to Pompei and Herculaneum, so we're neophytes regarding the culture of Naples.

Oh yes, assuming we do visit the Archeological Museum, what is the best way to get there with minimal walking? Thanks for any comments.
Jon
Jon

Posted by
23177 posts

Personally I think it is worth it. I loved visiting the room that used to require permission from the Pope to view. How times have changed. We were visit off a cruise ship. Took a taxi to the museum and walked back to the ship with a stop for pizza along the way. It was busy and chaotic but we felt safe except when crossing a street. Personally think Naples has cleaned up a lot since we first visited in 1991.

Posted by
2430 posts

I haven’t been (yet) but I think you’d get a lot out of the museum, especially since you’ve already seen Pompeii and Herculaneum. If you're looking for another stop, you might want to consider the Cappella Sansevero, for its Baroque sculpture.

Posted by
891 posts

It is well worth it. The museum houses the actual artifacts from Pompeii. We walked in Naples and did feel threatened or unsafe at any time. Take a cab from the terminal to the museum and walk back to the ship. As Frank stated crossing the street can be interesting, but that is just Naples. Just follow the signs and go when it is your turn.

Posted by
6264 posts

Please find time to visit the Sansevero Chapel, with its amazing sculptures. The Veiled Christ is the most famous, and definitely worthy of its fame, but we thought the sculpture of a man fighting his way out of a fishing net - carved out of a single block of marble - even more remarkable.

Posted by
3812 posts

Italy's grittiest, most polluted and most crime-ridden city." I suppose someone could introduce NYC with similar words

I don't know if such an introduction would be true about NYC, but what you have read about Naples is simply wrong.

Regarding the number of crimes per 100,000 inhabitants Naples is currently lying tenth in the ranking. Naples football team is performing better than local gangs.

Quite interestingly none of the "Evil Big 3", Milan, Rimini and Turin, is on the US tourists' path.

any special skill required to negotiate a taxi tariff

Negotiating a tariff is the best way to select the worst cabbies. I doubt there is a single honest driver in Naples, but if there is one you won't find Such an unicorn by declaring you are ready to break the rules with him.

Posted by
11052 posts

Taxis have have set fees for certain destinations in Naples. Make sure your driver charges you the correct amount if you take a taxi. I found the set rates online, printed it and took it along. I had to show it to one driver to get the set rate.

Posted by
755 posts

It’s a good idea to take a taxi to the museum and walk back to your ship as others have suggested, to save your energy. I walked alone all over that area near the museum and Piazza Dante and Spaccanapoli a few months ago, and many times before, and never felt unsafe. You can stop for lunch at numerous places in the area including Gino Sorbillo and da Michele, or just about anywhere. The Archeological Museum is definitely worth your time as is the veiled Christ as suggested. And, I’ve taken taxis many times in Naples and have never come across a dishonest driver, but for reassurance you can certainly take your rate sheet.

Posted by
768 posts

Thanks for the responses. I don’t believe anyone mentioned the Duomo; is it worry of a visit, and is it open on a Thursday afternoon in April?

Where along the walking route is the best place for lunch outdoors to have a delicious meal and people watch?
Jon

Posted by
755 posts

Yes! The Duomo is worth a visit. Sorry I can’t remember any restaurants with outdoor seating in the area.

Posted by
633 posts

The veiled Christ, Rick’s suggested walk, and the museum are all excellent and very worthwhile.

Posted by
121 posts

We ate last May at a very good restaurant in Piazza Dante, and it had outdoor seating. It was called Al Vecchio 53. The Archeological Museum is well worth your time. We spent several hours there. The veiled Christ/Museo Cappella Sansevero we hear is amazing, but it was sold out in the afternoon when we got there, even for Campania Arte card holders. In Centro Storico we really enjoyed seeing Caravaggio's Seven Acts of Mercy in Pio Monte della Misericordia (a lovely chapel) and strolling down Via San Armeno Gregoria to see the classical figures of presipio and all kinds of statuettes. Naples is chaotic but we found everyone to be very helpful and we never felt unsafe. One of our taxi drivers even helped us cross a busy street when we were returning to the ferry terminal.

Posted by
1541 posts

We did a one-day tour of Naples, although not from a cruise ship. We took the train to and from Rome for a day trip (April 2019). With plenty of time to spare, we did the museum (well worth it), and then did the RS audioEurope guided walk that includes Spaccanapoli. There was more than enough time for the museum and the walk, including a stop for a leisurely pizza lunch, some treats at a street market, and a stop at a Farmacia for some required over-the-counter med items.

The only thing I'd suggest is looking into advance tickets to the museum. RS books (at least back then) didn't suggest it, but when we arrived we found ourselves behind a huge line of school children. Maybe we just arrived too late in the morning. I'm sure on a cruise port day you could taxi up to the museum and be there before the kids.

Anyway, we did all this and we were still back in Rome in time for dinner. We realized when we got to the train station for the return journey we had much more time than we thought, and could have continued much further toward the port.

I'd definitely do the exact same day trip again.

EDIT : the RS walk went past Cappella Sansevero, and we got in with only a short wait.