Flying into Naples (October 22) with 7-8 days to explore and then on to Rome for 2-3 days. We typically are an off the beaten path couple, love to explore, hike, culture, prefer smaller quaint lodging in cities and small villages and love good food. Would be grateful for suggestions for backdoor favorites, places to visit stay, eat and explore and feel the local vibe.
Do you want to spend any time in Naples or is it just your jumping off point? Do you want to rent a car or stick to public transport? Is Pompeii in your plans?
I would leave it open-ended and go somewhere on the coast for hiking IF the weather is good; stay in Naples otherwise.
Thanks for the reply - we were thinking 3 days in Naples and maybe Pompeii - Vesuvius. But we would like to get off the beaten track also. Would prefer local transportation but if having a car once we leave Naples is an option we are open to that also.
Look at Caserta.
Look at Ischia. We were there for just a one day trip. I would have loved to spend a few days there and toured the island, rather than just walking through Ischia Porta and Ischia Ponte. But alas, our 30 day trip to southern Italy ended with just 4 nights (3 days) for Naples, Pompeii and Ischia. (We spent a couple of days in the Cilento before we went to Naples.)
One advantage of Ischia for you would be no car and no train. Just a ferry from Naples. And buses on the island. I wanted to get to Forio or a thermal spa, but my wife prevailed on just walking through the two adjacent towns of Ischia Porta and Ischia Ponte. She was probably right; we had a delightful day.
To listen to RS and some of his guides talk about Naples and environs incl. Ischia, go to https://m.soundcloud.com/rick-steves-audio-europe/naples-and-nearby-audio-europe. (Ischia is discussed at about 23 to 24 minutes into this podcast)
The Cilento is another off the beaten path region a couple of hours drive south of Naples and we enjoyed our two days there, as described in our TR. You will be well served to have a car, there. Our two nights there, plus the day driving from where we stayed in Pisciotta up to Naples was not enough time to take in some other hikes and sights the intrigued me.
Fortunately you have about 8 nights total to cover what we did with 6 nights.
For our TR see https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/southern-italy-30-days-three-ways-to-travel. (We discuss the Cilento/Naples/Pompeii/Ischia part of our trip in the third reply to the original post.)
For other ideas on Naples and environs, perhaps advice that others gave us might help you.
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/naples-and-environs-suggestions-per-favore
Finally, the Lonely Planet regional guide for Naples and the Amalfi Coast also covers the various islands near Naples (Capri, Ischia and Procida), as well as Salerno and the Cilento region a little further to the south.
Buon Viagge.
It depends on how you ultimately decide to spend your time in Campania, but the Campania Arte Card might pay off for you. I came out way ahead with the annual card while spending about a week in Naples and 4 nights in Salerno. I believe there's a shorter-duration card.
At the time of my winter 2023 purchase, it was impossible to find a place to buy the annual card in person. It was easy to buy it in the Arte Card app. Should you do that, make a record of the card number as you make the purchase in case the app refuses to open when you arrive at a covered site; that happened to me once or twice.
The card covers all the government-managed excavations in Campania Pompeii, Herculaneum, etc.), the large palace at Caserta and a lot of sights in Naples, including the Archaeological Museum. There are some significant points of interest in Naples that aren't covered--The Veiled Christ for sure, and I think also the chapel with the San Gennaro treasure.
I also like the Cilento area and I think with your timeline that is the most you could add. I don't recommend the Amalfi Coast in high season anymore, but in late October you might find it appealing (not off the beaten path but getting to low season maybe it fits the bill). Cetara was wonderful.
There are some, not 100% authentic, Classical sites very near Naples, like The Cave of the Cumaean Sybill, and "Virgil's Tomb". (These may be like relics of the True Cross, if you know what I mean!) Do you know there are at least three important excavations besides Pompeii and Herculaneum. I've only been to Oplontis, but it was really worth the easy Circumvesuviana ride and short walk. First rate, and deserted. (Admission fee.)
EDIT: I am NOT suggesting that you must see Sorrento, but if you go there, or up to Sant' Agata Sui Dui Golfi for the views (and very local lunch ... ) there is a 99% paved, all downhill walk to the middle of Sorrento. It takes 1.5 hours, I think, and you don't want to wear flip flops for it. This is not "hiking", but it's a very "local" outing, with lemon trees and sweet views. The entry to the walk is a few stairs down from a public plaza, but it's not easy to find.
Monte Faito provides tremendous views of the Bay of Naples and the Vesuvian sites. Take the Circumvesuviana to Casterllemare di Stabiae to get on the bus to the top. There are lots of paths there.
Have you thought of the Path of the Gods?
We are going in September and plan to do the walk around Lago Averno.
I would also recommend Baia and the Museo Aragonese.
Naples itself is worth exploring, with lots of surprises around every corner. We have been going annually to the city for years and always find something new. We have two rules: if there is an open church, go in; and if there is an opportunity to go underground go in.
And, like many touristy areas, good restaurants stick around while bad ones disappear. Any small trattoria, ristorante, or pizzeria will deliver a great meal. The Neapolitans are proud of their culture and cuisine. Drink the local wines.