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Naples ancient history sights questions

I noticed in Best of Italy that three sights I had seen elsewhere that intrigued me in the Naples area weren't mentioned. I'm into ancient history. What words of wisdom do you have about the following that aren't mentioned?

Herculaneum
Naples Underground
MAV Museum

Also, about Pompeii and the National Archeological Museum, would you recommend seeing Pompeii first or the museum?

Is the trip to Vesuvius worth it?

Also considering Paestum.

Would like to do these along with a bus trip along the Amalfi Coast in 4 days out of a 15 day Italy trip. (2 1/2 days each in Venice and Florence to this then ending with 4 days in Rome).

Posted by
2075 posts

All I can speak to is Pompei and the Archeological Museum in Naples. We walked through Pompei in March 2015, then the Museum in March 2017. And I think that's the order to do it, although not 2 years apart!

I believe you have to understand the scope of the ruins before you can appreciate all the Pompei art at the Museum, and there is a ton of it. Also, don't forget the Farnese Marbles exhibit. Fascinating!

Posted by
11294 posts

If you mean Rick Steves Best of Italy book, note that it is cut down from his Italy book, which itself is not mean to be comprehensive.

For his main books, Rick covers places he feels are highlights in great detail, and omits everything else. His Best Of series is relatively new; it has less information, but more color pictures. (I don't see the appeal, but I guess pictures sell).

Rick's regular books are designed for the first time US visitor with "average" interests and limited time. The more a person diverges from this, the more a person will need to supplement his books with other sources. So, if you are particularly interested in ancient history, you'll want to visit places Rick doesn't cover.

To see what's covered in any particular RS book, go to its listing on this website. The "What's Included" section will have the list of places covered. Then "Is This The Right Book For Me?" section will compare it to related titles. For instance, if you look at the listing for the Italy book https://store.ricksteves.com/shop/p/italy-guidebook, you'll see that it does cover Herculaneum.

No, I don't work for him. But a full understanding of his strengths and weaknesses is essential to getting the most out of his books.

Posted by
2075 posts

Yes, there are provinces in Italy that are interesting to me, like Puglia, Le Marche, Molise and Calabria, that don't garner much of a mention at all in the RS books. That's OK, different strokes. But don't think for a minute that those areas don't have a rich palette of history and cuisine. They do, and it's mostly unfettered and un-screwed up by tourism.

Posted by
1562 posts

Seventeen years ago we spent one whole day exploring Pompeii and another large part of a day seeing Herculaneum --- I totally recommend seeing both. The two sites are quite different. Go when they open in the morning. Pompeii got really, really crowded mid-morning. We did not go up Vesuvius, but later in that same trip we went up Mount Etna in Sicily and enjoyed doing that (it was starting to erupt!)

Three years ago we stayed in Naples for a week and spent a day in the Archeological museum --- great museum, loved it! If you are already familiar with ancient Rome, I don't think it matters whether you visit the museum before or after Pompeii.

I hope you have been to Ostia Antica. In Rome, for ancient Roman sculpture we also loved the Montemartini museum.

Posted by
15777 posts

If it's what I think it is, the MAV Museum is in the modern town of Ercolano about half way between the Circumvesuviana train station and the Herculaneum ruins. (the walk is about 10-15 minutes down hill from train to ruins) It's mainly a 3-D "experience" of the eruption of Vesuvius. I didn't have time for it, but I met a French couple who did see it, after Herculaneum, and they said it was worthwhile and enjoyable.

There are at least two Naples Underground sites, close to each other. I didn't enjoy it that much, but I had the sense afterward that I'd chosen the wrong one :-)

I don't think it matters much which order you see Pompeii and the museum. At the archaeological site, there are some original bits and a good many replicas where the originals have been removed. At the museum, you can get up close to the artifacts with good lighting and of course, there's a lot from sites other than Pompeii.

I stayed in Salerno and had a rental car. I drove to Paestum and loved it. The temples are impressive, though the ones in Sicily are in a better state of preservation. The archaeology museum there is worth 1-2 hours, though not comparable to the one in Naples. It's about an hour's drive from Salerno. If you're staying in Naples, you could take Trenitalia to Salerno, then train or bus to Paestum. I believe the bus stops much closer to the temple site than the train.

If you are staying in Naples and near the train station or a metro that goes to the train station, you may be able to do all in 4 days - but bear in mind that 4 days means 5 nights. You can get to the Amalfi Coast most easily by train to Salerno. The buses to Amalfi leave from the train station. The ferry pier is about a 5-minute walk from the station.

Posted by
2768 posts

I have not been to the MAV museum. I went to Pompeii a long time ago and I choose not to return on my recent visit. Instead I went to Herculaneum and I’d highly recommend it. Go to Pompeii also, but I think I prefer Herculaneum. It’s smaller, less busy, and I felt like you could see more color and structure to the buildings. Be sure to go through the tunnel to what was the seashore and see the casts of people who didn’t quite manage to escape on boats. It’s eerie and powerful.
I ended up seeing the museum first this time due to scheduling. I think the general advice is Pompeii/Herculaneum first museum later if possible because you have the context to visualize the location of the artifacts. However it’s possible that seeing the museum first lets you visualize the artifacts you already saw in the sight. In short - either works, IMO.

Naples Underground - I did one (there are a couple, and I couldn’t really tell which was which). You enter through a church, but there was a different one across the street. I found it interesting and worth the time but I wouldn’t schedule around it or make a huge plan of going. If you have time then I think it’s well worth a visit.

Posted by
4105 posts

I've spent almost 6 months in the Naples area.
While it is possible to do the items on your list, here are my impressions. Keep in mind this would have 2 very long days.

Day 1. 8-9am departure from Florence. Arrive between 11-12 hotel by the train station, or this cute "little" BnB. Good bus &metro connections to the rest of the city.

http://www.booking.com/Share-PsPW7qw

In the Centro Storico. Short 5 min walk to the Archeological Museum and metro (line 1). 10 min ride to the train station. All the famous pizza places 5-15m walk.
Today, visit either/both Capella Sansevero €7 pay out of pocked for this site. or Castel Dell Ovo. Free.

Look carefully at this. For the sites you wish to see, it will save you money.

http://www.campaniartecard.it/artecard/en/content/luoghi

It's a 3 day pass which includes 2 free sites, use the most expensive first, with discounts to others. Transportation on metro, busses funiculars and regional trains. If you see Pompeii, Archeological Museum and Ercolano, it pays for itself. Not including transportation you'll use.

Day 2. Pompeii Scavi 38 min. allow 3-4 hours,or 6, a guide here is a good plan and then Archeological Museum.

Day 3. Ercolano Scavi. 20 min. To me, it's not worth a 2 hr 15 min bus ride 1:35 to, 40 back,to Naples to spend an hour on the summit.
My daughter and granddaughter have lived here 15 years and just visited last year. If you do decide to do this, you need to walk (30 min) or taxi (5 min) to the Pompei station to board the bus to Vesuvius. €10.

So, 2 choices here, head back to Naples and see some other sites, or continue to Sorrento and and maybe Positano. 1 hour bus between the two. Then Circumvesuvian back to Naples. 1hr.

Dependent on adventure 8-10 hr day.

Day 4. Regional train to Salerno, 43m, ferry to Amalfi 35 min. Towns along the way. Maiori, Minori, (stop at the fab pastry shop Sal de Riso in Minori). Arrive Amalfi, bus 30 m to Ravello. Villa Climborne and Rufolo are beautiful (discounted) return to Amalfi, 1-2 hrs then bus
back to Sorrento. Circumvesuvian to Naples.
8-10 hour day.

Timetables for transportation in the area.

https://www.sorrentoinsider.com

Edit: ferry schedule for Salerno to Positano.

https://www.travelmar.it/en/hours

Sita bus on the AC is not included in the arte card, scroll down to see prices.

Prices on some of the sites I've enjoyed with prices and discounts. All prices are in Euro.

Pompeii Scavi. €15/9,00.
Arch. Museum. 12/6,00.
Ercolano. 11/5,50.
MAV, typical 3-D. $$ better spent on souvenir book.
Naples Soltternea. 10/5,00.
Palazzo Reale. 6/3,00.
Castello dell Ovo. Free.
Castel Sant' Elmo. 5/2,50 Combines well with...via funicular.
Capodimonte. 12/8,00.
Caserta Palace. 3 tiers.
Palace & Garden. 12/6,00.
Garden only 8/4,50.
Palace only. 9/4,50.

Villas Climborne Rufolo 11/7,00.

Hope this is of some help.