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Morning in the Aventine and Testaccio areas (before the Borghese)

On a Friday in mid-June, we have a 3:00-5:00 visit planned to the Borghese Gallery (we plan to arrive by 2:30 to pick up tickets). I'm looking at ways to spend a relaxed morning slighly off the beaten track.

My idea was to walk around the Aventino (Orange Groves, Knights of Malta keyhole), then walk over to the Protestant Cemetery, and finally have a quick lunch at the Nouvo Mercato di Testaccio before taking a taxi to the Borghese Gallery. We'll be starting out from our hotel in Campo de'Fiori around 9:30 AM.

What do you think? Too far? Too hot? Too much? or just right :)

Thanks in advance!

Posted by
415 posts

I think it's doable, but you will have to watch your time carefully. Are you walking? Taking cabs?

If you like cemeteries, you might find it interesting but time consuming. I took the tour in English and as I recall it was maybe 45 minutes? Also I think it's a bit of a hike from the Aventino to the Protestant cemetery. If I were you, I would be prepared watch the time carefully. You certainly don't want to miss your visit to the Borghese Gallery. It can take some time to get from Testaccio to the Borghese.

I haven't been to the new Testaccio market so I don't know about the food options there for lunch or whether or not a quick lunch is possible. The Volpetti "deli" is a great spot for cheese and salami. I don't know if they make sandwiches, but their food quality is really good. I understand that they are under new ownership and the space around the corner which used to be a tavola calda (cafeteria) is now a tavern with table service, so likely good food, but also more time consuming than the old place. Volpetti is not in the new market, but it's close and on via Marmorata 47.

I also try to plan extra time to do anything in Italy - it always just works out that way. Also it's likely to be quite warm so you may be walking more slowly than expected.

Posted by
415 posts

Actually it looks like the Taverna Volpetti still has a buffet at lunch time? That might a good spot for your quick lunch.

Taverna Volpetti
Via Alessandro Volta 8

Posted by
11838 posts

We walked the Aventine several times and like the area very much. Your plan is doable but I would depart earlier in the morning and give yourself a buffer. It could be quite hot by midday, but much of the area is tree-lined.

Posted by
59 posts

Thank you so much for the replies and suggestions! I will keep a close eye on the time. I'm really looking forward to seeing these areas of Rome. My kids are fascinated by the keyhole and I've heard that there can be lines, so I'll have to factor that in as well. Thanks again for your advice and the restaurant recommendation!