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Mini-report from Cinque Terre

If you’ve read my other posts about traveling this summer in Italy, I’m not going to go into that much detail, but for those who might be thinking about coming to Cinque Terre this summer, I’ll give a short report. I spent three days in Vernazza this week (Mon-Wed). My host said the weekends are pretty busy because the Italians come and spend the weekend when they’re not working. But during the week it’s pretty dead.

The trails are open and most shops and restaurants are open. However, I did notice that a lot of shops and all the gelato places closed for the evenings. Maybe they stay open later on the weekends when it’s busier? The restaurants were all pretty empty. Everyone I spoke to, my host, all the restaurant owners were ALL thrilled to hear that Americans could come for tourism again. They were so excited. There’s been a lot of debate on this forum about when you should travel, and that should always remain an individual decision based on your own situation. But I wanted to communicate what I experienced here in Cinque Terre.

What I heard from restaurant and shop owners was that they need tourists to come back to be able to survive financially. And they’re so excited for Americans to return. That’s just the opinion of the few that I spoke to, and that can’t reflect the overall opinion of every Italian in the country.

This was a unique opportunity for me to be here with so few tourists in high season. When I did the trail from Vernazza-Corniglia I saw maybe ten people at 9AM. The trains are mostly empty. I am very grateful for this experience.

Lastly, a few recommendations. There are hundreds of posts you can search that have similar suggestions, I’m sure. The best hike I did (and the easiest!) was the vineyard walk RS has in the Manarola section. The views are stunning. The best food experience I had was at “Il Pirata delle 5 Terre” here in Vernazza. It’s up the street from the train station. The views are terrible (apartment buildings) but the food was great and the owner speaks great English and is so warm and friendly. Even though I speak Italian, when he asked where I was from he insisted on speaking English the rest of the evening. And then treated me like I was a guest in his home back in Sicily.

Posted by
759 posts

Bill - Thank you for taking the time to post about your ongoing adventures in Italy. It is greatly appreciated!

Posted by
5687 posts

Thanks for the report, Bill. I've thought about what it might be like being in Europe now in places like the Cinque Terre that are usually mobbed with tourists. This was one of the last places I visited in 2019 on my last trip to Europe. I'd love to be there too right now - this is truly a unique opportunity. I did that "vinyard hike" in 2019 and yes, the views down are stunning - the best of any of the Cinque Terre hikes I've done.

Posted by
9420 posts

Thanks Bill, I loved reading your post!!

Posted by
32202 posts

Bill,

Thanks for the report on current conditions there. The Cinque Terre is one of my favourite parts of Italy, and I've been wondering how they were doing under the current circumstances. It would certainly be a different experience to be there in less crowded conditions. Were you able to get to Monterosso during your time there?

Posted by
400 posts

Ken,

Yes, I was able to go to all five towns. The weather is always unpredictable in the Cinque Terre, so I wasn’t able to quite do everything I had planned, but such is the way of all travel!!

Posted by
9565 posts

Thanks for this report, Bill. I am so glad you are getting to enjoy the Cinque Terre like that ! Thanks for the tips on the walk and the pizza place.

Posted by
1034 posts

interesting trip report. I read a similar report last week - most things are open, limited hours, but the crowds aren't quite back. My one and (so far) only trip to Cinque Terre was in 2016, another year in which Americans stayed home due to some unfortunate terrorist incidents that spring. We were a group of four, and for the four+ days we were there, we never failed to get the four facing seats on every local train, tables without reservations at good restaurants, and enough personal space to feel comfortable. I was resisting going back due to the previous years' reports of mosh pits at the train stations. Sounds like we had better take up the chance quickly!

So I just booked a week in Imperia for late June, for our usual pack of 2 parents, adult daughter and French bulldog. It will be our first trip outside our province, and very nearly outside our little town, since we returned from Monopoli last October. We'll putter around the Riviera, and possibly all the way to CT, as our post-COVID-life-restart trip (while still avoiding indoor crowds.) We are only half vaccinated, so we will be careful. Still very much looking forward to it!

Thanks for the push, Bill and I hope you continue to enjoy and report on your extended trip.

Posted by
338 posts

Bill
Thank you for the update! I’ve been to the Cinque several times and the scenery is spectacular. If you get back to Monterosso try to find the enoteca that serves the local sweet wine - dip a biscotti and enjoy the opera music they share.
It must be surreal to be there with so few people. I would like to make Italy a part of my summer travels but right now that’s not possible. Maybe soon.
Ciao!

Posted by
88 posts

Thanks for the report Bill! Glad you are enjoying your time there.

It has been a few years since I was in the CT, also staying in Vernazza!

My favorite food by far was also at Il Pirata delle 5 Terre, with the Sicilian twin brothers. SO HAPPY to hear they are producing wonderful food yet. They made me feel very welcome, remembering us the 2nd time we ate there. Their pesto was outstanding. Looking forward to a return visit someday, hopefully soon!

Posted by
10218 posts

We had the same experience at Il Pirata in 2010. After our first visit they greeted us like family each time we returned. They even took a picture with us on our last visit. The food was delicious and ooohhh...the cannoli was to die for.

Posted by
5581 posts

We really enjoyed the vineyard hike around Manarola as well. When we were there in 2019 that was the only path that was open. The The views from Manarola are wonderful and its fun to walk thru the grapes.

Posted by
7354 posts

Bill, your mini-report is much appreciated. What lodging did you have, and when did you book it? What method did you use to get it? We’re looking at being there in October, and not certain whether to get rooms ASAP.

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400 posts

Cyn,

I booked this whole trip a week before I left because I didn’t know if it would even be possible until the last second. I booked this Airbnb apartment in Vernazza:

https://abnb.me/4yk3uJpKYgb

The views were AMAZING!! The apartment itself is tiny. And there are a LOT of steps up to it. I’m so glad I booked it, but I’m not sure if I’d do it a second time. It was OK for me, I’m traveling alone. I think it might be too small for a couple. I book almost everything on Airbnb. For this trip there were a few places where I couldn’t find what I wanted/needed and I booked a few places on Booking.com. We’ll see what they’re like, they’re later in the summer.

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21 posts

I’ll be there in 3 weeks…. So excited!! I will do those hikes. And eat at that restaurant I’m staying at Airbnb in manarola I was hesitant booking Airbnb again as there were several refund issues with covid last year but I’m crossing my fingers this works out this time. Rest of my trip booked refundable hotels mostly on bookingditcom

Posted by
7354 posts

Bill, thank you for the link for your lodging. That view is truly phenomenal! You’re right, though, the 2 of us were looking for something a bit different, and that inspired looking further. We’ve now booked a place in Riomaggiore, with a terrace view, and other amenities like A/C, a nice kitchen with dishwasher, and a clothes washer, too. This’ll be a return to the Cinque Terra after 20 years, and I expect some things may have changed since then. Great food and a genuinely magical location are expected to still be there. Thank you again for this first-person account!

Cyn,

We are also thinking about CT in October. I have heard that October can be rainy. Have you heard that as well?

Stephanie

Posted by
5581 posts

In terms of October weather, we were in Italy at the end of October, 2019. When we arrived, the forecast was for 5 days of rain. We had one moderately nice day on Lake Como, and one day of all day rain. In CT, we lucked out a bit, when we arrived at about 3pm, it was very nice, but the forecast for the next few days was for rain. We did all of Manarola that afternoon. The next day, because the forecast was for storms, all the paths between the towns were closed, and they wouldn't cell the cards for the trains and restrooms. It didn't rain a drop until evening, tho it was overcast. In Florence we had 2 nice days and 1 day of all day rain, luckily we had the Academia and the Uffizi booked for the day of rain. We had 5 nice days in Rome, and a day of all day rain. In Amalfi, we had one nice day and two days of rain. We made the best of the weather and enjoyed Italy but decided we wouldn't go to Italy in October/November again. Every city, we would try to load weather dependent activities on the front end when the weather was nice. It did become stressful.

Posted by
32202 posts

jules m,

I'm assuming you mean that you were in Italy at the end of October 2020?

Posted by
77 posts

We will be there in 3 weeks for 4 nights so thank you kindly for a great report. This will be our first visit to CT. We will also be in Lucca for 4 nights so if you have any tips or suggestions - - that would be awesome.

Posted by
6 posts

I've been to Italy a number of times and always looking for something new, but also always like to find out more about the places I loved like the 5Terre. So thank you for your insight and recommendations; between now and May 2022 I hope to read more of your posts.
I'd also like say though, that it's not just Americans who are looking to travel soon. I am from Canada, and I'd like Italy to know we are also looking forward to going back once again. We know how important tourism is for many countries, and small businesses, mom&pops, boutique hotels, etc. so I like to spend my vacation dollars on those types of things. Bill, whenever you are talking to the locals about the reopening of borders and travels, give your Canadian neighbours a mention too and tell them I'll see them next year :)

Posted by
297 posts

Bill....you said the trails are open. Are all the trails open, like the Via Dell'Amore?

Posted by
400 posts

I only noticed that the major trails between the towns were open. I didn’t investigate any further beyond that.

Posted by
15806 posts

As Charlotte said, Via dell'Amore is closed and is not expected to re-open until 2023 at the earliest.
It is marked as closed on the park's official website: see the black "closed" line running along the coast from Riomaggiore almost to Manarola? Just a short section of that trail is open partway between the two villages (blue line) but doesn't go thru.

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/Esentieri-outdoor.php

Scroll down the page to "592-1 (SVA2) Riomaggiore-Manarola", which is the formal name of the Via dell'Amore, and note that it's labeled as closed. Also from the useful and usually reliable "A Path to Lunch" website for regional info:
"Italy's Famous Path - The Via Amore - Reopens in 2023/2024."
https://www.apathtolunch.com/2019/10/the-via-dellamore-is-reopening.html

Posted by
297 posts

I guess I was just so excited to think it was open, that's what I wanted to believe. Thank goodness we were able to walk the path in 2003 and 2010. We are going, hopefully, in May 2022. Thanks for the info.

Posted by
1 posts

Thank you so much for sharing and the information you provided! My husband and I are headed to Cinque Terre this week! We are so excited and will look into your suggestions!

Posted by
38 posts

Thank you for the update! I am planning a visit in October & am trying to get a feel for whether they are welcoming tourists again.

Posted by
14 posts

We have just been in Italy for a day, Milan and so far the Italians we have talked to are very happy to see Americans and have gone out of their way to be friendly. Perhaps for them seeing Americans again is a sign that the virus is under control after having been so horrific for them (and us).

Posted by
328 posts

Grazie mile per l'informazione! We will be staying in Riomaggiore for 6 nights in August (our 5th visit) to le Cinque Terre. Good to hear about how everything is going there. Thanks for the heads up on the gelato. I can taste the melone liquor and Sciacchetrà now!

Posted by
427 posts

Thank you for the report! I’m looking forward to checking some of your ideas out, especially the hike above Manarola. Like Jeanine, we will also be in Riomaggiore in August.