May 2019 trip, 14 nights-questions about Naples/Amalfi portion

Some hints.

1. Naples. We stayed by the water. I could look up area if you are interested. Pedestrian only zone with lots of restaurants. By the “egg. I was there first for a conference and everyone who stayed in this area, liked Naples, while most of the rest did not. Naples is very busy and loud. I actually liked it better than sorrento because sorrento was more like a disneyesque version of Italy. We also had a huge room with balcony overlooking the sea and a tiny room with balcony overlooking the street in
   Sorrento (for same money). We walked to catch ferry to sorrento. About 15 minutes.

2. I would stay in town in sorrento . Views outside town are beautiful for less money than in town but not convenient to Train station and bus station. You arrive by ferry below the town. We took a bus up as we had luggage.

3. You catch the bus to amalfi by train station. I think first is 8 am. Try to sit on right side for view. Unfortunately it was raining the day we did it so couldn’t see a lot.

4. Amalfi is charming but small. We hiked the Path of the Gods which took us a good portion of a day with travel. I don’t think there is enough to do there otherwise for a day and a half. I would spend 3 nights and go earlier to Venice.

5. We had less than a half a day in Ravello because we waited for the rain to stop. I would have spent more time. I would plan for a whole day and you can return when you want. We were there in july but the buses were ridiculously crowded. We walked back on a path through farmer fields and then through a tunnel into Amalfi.

6. Positano is cute but without any real sites but still I would go for the day. The ferry ride is great. We came back on it. We also rented chairs and spent a day at the beach. Very rocky beach and the one without the ferries is preferable to sit at (although we walked to the other one for lunch). You could wander and then veg out.

Enjoy!!

Beth

Your itinerary looks great. The only change I would make is to take one nite from Amalfi and add it to Naples. While it's a chaotic city, there's much more to see there than you could imagine.

Positano, Amalfi and Ravello are all small towns.
With three nites. You'd have plenty of time to cover them completely, and still have time to ferry to Minori and Maiori and explore them too.

You'll love this area, have a great trip.

I would allot a full day to Ravello. It has two villas with beautiful gardens and an interesting cathedral to see. By the time you do that, wander, have a good meal in one of the restaurants, and add in bus travel time, a day will pretty much be gone. If you are music lovers, you should check on the possibility of attending a performance. One of the villas - - I can’t remember which - - is a venue for concerts of various kinds. If you do attend a concert, it’s a good idea to pre-arrange a taxi for the return to your hotel..

Thank you all for the great suggestions/tips. Have to admit I am pleasantly surprised nobody told me that going from Salerno to Venice is nuts! We loved Venice and wanted to return, on a whim I booked our RT flight from there, so it’s locked in. We spent 3 nights there and did all the sights, Murano/Burano, cicchetti tour, secret itinerary tour etc. This trip we just want to wander the backstreets and probably visit Torcello.

Same for Rome- we spent 5 nights there and did all the major sights. This trip we’ll probably revisit Colosseum and try to stop in St Peter’s because we were not able to get close to altar when we were there before. We’ll be staying near the Pantheon again and look forward to just wandering and enjoying the neighborhoods we liked so much. 
I’m considering a food tour of Trastevere- we discovered how much we like food tours on a trip to London and while in Nice last month. We only spent a brief evening in Trastevere last trip and it didn’t go so well- need to revisit that neighborhood to erase that bit of a bad memory!

To clarify a few things and I will add more detail.

Naples- I just could not see us only changing trains there on our way to Sorrento and not stopping to experience Naples. My husband had to be convinced that it will be fine. I’m not too worried about all the negative things said about it, so I think 1 day will work for us. I booked Palazzo Doria d’Angri- near Piazza Sette Settembre- looks very nice and I got an amazing rate of 81€, 5 min walk from Dante Metro and 15 min walk to ferry. Has anyone stayed there?
I thought if we arrive by 10ish- we’d have time for Archeological Museum (if we chose), do the RS walk, stop in a few churches and I did want to visit Cappella Sansevero.
However I am always open to making changes- convince me 2 nights in Naples is the better choice! Would you recommend 2 Naples/2 Sorrento and use the 2nd day in Naples to visit Pompei?

Sorrento- our hotel is in town near Piazza Sant’Antonio- looks like a 5 min walk from elevator, 10 min to bus/train. I do have the RS Naples/Amalfi book- Rick recommends the elevator over the bus. I guess either will be fine- we’ll decide when we arrive. Usually we would rather walk a bit even with luggage than use public transportation for such short distances. Is the walk from ferry to elevator reasonable/doable? We’ll each have a roller bag and a knapsack.

Amalfi- We chose Amalfi over Positano as a base because can’t deal with too many stairs/steep climbs every day. Positano seemed too tiny and too steep! We have a sea view room at Hotel La Bussalo- which is along the water, 5 min to bus/ferry, 8 min to center.

A “1/2 day” to us just means we head out after bkft- 9:30/10 and return about 3-4. If a day trip takes longer than we thought- no big deal! We do want time to just relax, enjoy our sea view room, drink wine on the terrace.

Both Maori and Minori appeal to us- could add that on Thurs, Fri or Sat- as I said all those days are interchangeable.
How is the walk to Altrani? Perhaps we’ll walk to Altrani- then ferry to Maori/Minori.

Does anyone know how early the ferry to Salerno will run on a Sun in late May? Current schedules show first ferry at 9:00.
https://www.positano.com/en/ferry-schedule?from=amalfi&to=salerno#
Since it is close to a 6 hour train trip to Venice, we’d like to get on earliest train possible.

Again thanks- and please keep the suggestions/tips coming!

I think you have planned it quite well.
I totally understand the impetus to spend time in a village vs. a city, but the opinions of Naples sometimes can border on hysteria. I very much enjoyed my day there, and I would not have passed up seeing all of the things removed from Pompeii.
You have it organized nicely, but if you wanted fewer hotel changes, to me the choice is between Naples and Sorrento, as Pompeii can be visited from Naples or en route to the Amalfi Coast, and Capri can be visited from the Amalfi coast. I just mention that because a change would allow you to stay in Salerno a night and get that early train, but I don't see it as a big deal either way.

Atrani is a short walk from Amalfi--it seemed like about 20 minutes. We also walked from Minori or Maiaori (I forever confuse the two so just use them interchangeably) to Ravello and then to Atrani/Amalfi. There are tons of great hikes in the area (was not sure if the aversion to stairs would preclude hiking, but just wanted to mention it).

I stayed in both amalfi and positano. I much preferred amalfi. The view from our balcony in positano was gorgeous but it was tiresome to have to cope steps to do anything. Funny thing is on hotel website there was an elevator down to the sea. Turns out it had been broken for 7 years!!

Beth

I for sure didn’t tell you that going Salerno Venice is crazy, because I did it last trip and am doing it again next year! (Well, actually not Venice, but Verona, the same departure though this time haha) The 6:12am train looks like the best to me, to get the most of my northern part of the day. That would mean staying in town the night before.

I like Amalfi better than Positano, it seems “less” touristy if that is a thing on the Amalfi Coast :) plus it has better transport connections (aka most buses start or end there, meaning easier to get ON a bus at its first stop)

It does seem like a lot of moving hotels around Campania, I would encourage people to stay in Naples, but it would wear me out to switch hotels that much in such close of an area. I do agree that you can see Pompeii on the way to Sorrento, but after thinking a bit, I would forego nighttime strolls in Sorrento for strolls alongside the water in Naples.

I won’t add too much here, but I did want to mention a highlight of the area, especially since it is just 30 minutes from Salerno, by either bus or train. That would be the incredible Greek temples of Paestum, three intact temples from 550, 500, and 450 BC, all in a row within a setting of less impressive Roman ruins. These are among the most intact Greek ruins anywhere, including Greece. Evidently, the Romans especially valued and honored religious sites, so they demolished everything else, but left the temples intact. The best time to visit the temples is late afternoon, for the light. There is also a modest-sized museum right next to the ruins, which includes murals, mosaics, pottery and other works of art from the temples. Most memorable for me, the museum shows how the temples would have looked back in the day, incredibly colorful and ornate, so different from the quite drab gray stones that ruins display now. The museum only takes an hour or less to visit, as do the ruins really, but check the days and hours. As I remember, while the ruins were open for visits every day, the museum closes one day a week, maybe Monday. I went to Salerno and Paestum as a day trip from Naples, by train, but from Salerno it would be a snap, if you schedule for that. At least google Paestum during your planning.

Here's a site that will show you all the interesting sites in the campania area.

http://www.campaniartecard.it/artecard/en/content/luoghi

Click on the catagory, scroll down click the site,
Again scroll down for prices, opening hours..
Below this is an advertisement go past that for pictures and a map.

You're staying in a very central area, but your walks may take more time then you think.
The port is 20-30 minute walk, (M)Dante more like 15. Capella Sansevero could take an hour dependent on how many times you stop just to look at something. While it is a chaotic city, the people are warm and helpful.

For a great pizza, where you'll see very few tourists, try Restaurante Bellini. It's a 2 block walk from the Archeological Museum. Go upstairs, food is fabulous, and has good AC.

Have spent 6 months in the area in the past 15 years, as my daughter lives a half hour away,
So I spend time in the area while she's at work.

Have I convinced you to spend 2 nights??

Edit: check at the port in Sorrento to see if the elevator is actually working, half the time it's not.

Oh boy- lots to think about!

We don't want to visit Pompeii en route from Naples to Sorrento. I am trying to avoid that Circumvensia train and with luggage in tow, it's even more important. Thus the reason we decided to ferry to Sorrento and visit Pompeii from there.

Paestum- yes I know it's there, I'd have to rearrange everything to have the time to visit and pretty sure we do not want to give up any time in Amalfi/Sorrento- those locations are the main reason for this trip. Yet I am interested so will give it some thought.

Google maps says 3 min walk from our Naples hotel to Dante Metro, 18 min walk to Port. We'll be fine with that
Thanks for the warning about elevator- we'll check for sure before we walk in that direction. Bus is always an option.

For now I have booked a hotel near train station in Salerno on Sat night- just until I figure out how early ferry can get us there on Sun am. Don't like adding another 1 night stay at all, but we will do what works best- really don't want to worry about getting to train on time and would like to get to Venice before it is dark!

I guess this might work and gets us back to just one 1 night stay (if needed)
Rome 3
Naples 2- visit Pompeii 2nd day
Sorrento 2- visit Capri
Amalfi 3
Salerno 1
Venice 3

I think if you are visiting everywhere you want to, a quick overnight in Salerno is not a bad idea. I'm assuming that you are staying at the Hotel Plaza, which is definitely sufficient for a quick stop. That way, you have a few hours to enjoy a stroll along the Corso for shopping, the Lungomare for scenery, and get to explore the old town. I'm planning on taking the last ferry back from Positano/Amalfi on our coastal day to get back right before dinnertime on our trip in May as well. Being close to the station is perfect for luggage and an early departure from Salerno the next morning.

I am staying in the historic center during our stay, and with a possible 6:12am departure, our B&B owner will be calling us a taxi (I have been burned by a no bus when I need it for 30 min before an early trip to Pisa and I ran onto the platform as the doors closed and the train pulled away UGH) to ensure we are there in time.

Just to clarify, I meant seeing Pompeii en route if you were skipping Sorrento altogether. There are many options for transit and luggage storage--sounds like it's a moot point, but just so later readers know the options.
enjoy!

Looks good, Christine, have a great trip.

Consider Paestum instead of Capri. Paestum is simply amazing. Take ferry to Salerno and rent a taxi to Paestum for set time.
Consider Herculenium instead of Pompei. Herculenium is really amazing and much less touristy and much more relaxed to see the whole town.
Ravello and the Villas are well worth the time.
Sorrento is a fun town.
Enjoy

Well now that I think about it- Paestum is actually more appealing to us than Capri.

Why do you suggest cab from Salerno? looks like there is a direct train takes 30 min.

I suppose we could get to Salerno via ferry from Amalfi drop our bags at hotel then train to Paestum for the afternoon

That sounds like a great plan, I'm unsure why a taxi from Salerno is being suggested either, I have taken the train from Salerno to Paestum MANY times.....one thing though, its not the most frequent train back and forth (at BEST, one an hour, but sometimes every few hours), so I would be sure to get the schedule and make sure you can fit everything in. If the train doesn't work, the bus (line 34 that passes through Paestum and Salerno) might be another, yet infrequent and slow, option. http://www.cstp.it/linee/34fe.pdf

edited to add: I think that 34 makes some huge weird loop to Napoli and back to Salerno, but maybe a train there and if needed, a taxi back?

If you only have limited time in Naples I would definitely see the National Archaeological Museum. It could take 5 - 6 hours to see it all. I recommend getting a guide. The audio tours are OK but the place is so large it is easy to get lost and you will spend more time rewinding and fast forwarding the audio guide to find your correct place.

Sorrento, Amalfi and Positano are wonderful places to vist. Pompeii is a must.

We took the ferry from Positano and walked to the taxi stand and hired a taxi for a fixed rate and a fixed time. It was a very interesting drive along the coast. I am not sure why I didn't take the train. I think I was trying to make the ferry times back to Positano and wanted a faster journey there. Paestum is quite impressive with very few people visiting . The Romans built their city around the Temples and respected the greek Temples not destroying them.
You can study the trains and bus schedules and probably figure it out better than me.

Naples archeological museum is another amazing museum that you shouldn't miss if you like history or visiting Pompeii or Herculenium.

Enjoy

gtl646

Do you recall how much that taxi was?

Christine maybe 30 euros for three or 4 hours taxi waited . I would have rather taken train but timing was off for the ferry as I recall. Maybe a dinner reservation.

But I checked a website for trains Loco2.com 3euros each way takes about 30 minutes and is frequent from Salerno. Easy walk from ferry to train in Salerno. Neat town then station walkable to paestum. Country setting Paestum

Just plan in advance. The ferry ride along the coast is great. Worth just to ride. It’s so beautiful. To see the towns from the ferry.

Now I’m no expert on this and I’m sure if you search the site or web there are a few recommendations

thanks
30 euros doesn't sound too bad
If we do this we will stay in Salerno that night to catch train north next day.
(don't laugh but we are probably going to add Verona- lol what was supposed to be a simple trip to Rome/Amalfi has exploded- as usual)
I'lll check all options for bus/train etc well beforehand

no guarantee on that price. I had to gaggle and it may have been more I just don't remember.
I would figure on train to be safe. there probably is a bus tour also. I am sure of that.