I'd like to visit a market in Rome during our trip there in June. Originally, I entertained going to the Campo dei Fiori market, but after some reviews that mentioned that the Campo dei Fiori market is now less of a real market and more of a tourist attraction, I am having second thoughts. Has anyone been to a market in Rome that they really enjoyed? We will be staying in an apartment near the Piazza di Spagna/Piazza del Popolo, so a location nearby would be ideal, although I would not be adverse to traveling a bit. Appreciate any suggestions.
Porta Portese of course.
The food market in Testacio is very real. Lots of fruit, vegetables, cheese etc.
Real market/tourist attraction?! Chicken or the egg?
We just stayed at an apartment overlooking the Campo de' Fiori market for six nights. With our windows open to the piazza, I would be slowly woken up around 5:30 AM by the guys setting up the stands, their voices reverberating off the buildings in the quiet--quite nice. By 7:00 I'd go for a walk along the river, catch a quick caffe, then shop for my fruits & vegetables for the day, bs'ing with the vendors. At that time of the morning there were few tourists, just the real market as it's been forever.
Of course by noon, the perimeter restaurants (that we never tried while there) were open with the hawkers trying to draw tourists in, and the vibe was totally different. Not worse, but it's a popular place. Then, about 4PM, the vendors pack up, the cobblestone is washed down and cleaned, all is quiet again for awhile, except for the occasional musician in the middle of the square. BTW, it never got real busy at night either as a supposed social gathering place, but we're talking late February.
My point is, don't discount going somewhere because you heard it's a tourist attraction. Hit Campo in the early morning and you'll see it as it was meant to be.
The Testaccio market is certainly real, but it's not at all convenient for someone staying near P. del Popolo.
On Via Andrea Doria in Prati, beyond the Vatican, is the Mercato Trionfale. Fabulous! You can take the#2 tram from Piazza del Popolo a few blocks to Minestero Marina and change to a #19 that will take you to within about 3 blocks of the market.
Oh-by-the-way, we went to Campo dei Fiori a lot and bought a lot of produce there. One benefit is a great cheese shop there, the best salumeria in Rome (Viola, north side of the piazza), and Roscioli nearby.
Mercato Trionfale is great, lots of variety, real people shop here.