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Maremma ...your thoughts?

I am thinking of making my next Italy trip to this region. Any experiences you would like to share?

Posted by
3661 posts

There are some lovely towns and interesting sights that are less heavily touristed than many other parts of Italy. Massa Marittima is one of my favorites. The lower level is medieval; and the upper, Renaissance. It has a beautiful cathedral, a museum of sacred art, and, a surprising gem, a museum of ancient organs. About an hour’s drive away is the monastery and ruined church of San Galgano.
The beach town of Viareggio has quite of bit of Art Nouveau architecture.

The area is honey-combed with Etruscan sites.
Right near Capalbio is Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, a sculpture garden with the fantastic, whimsical works of Nikki de St. Phalle.
There are a number of hot springs in the area, with towns featuring spas. Saturnia is one we’ve visited. Close by is Pitigliano, a town sitting on a tufa cliff, with Roman and medieval remains. It also has Jewish sites, stretching far back in history and extending up to WWII. Sovana and Sorano are near and worth visiting.
We did not visit, but there is a national park of the Maremma.
There is another town - - the name eludes me, but it’s located near the marble quarries - - that specializes in sculpture. All over the town are sculptures in various styles, with various themes.
We loved the area and could happily return.

Posted by
16608 posts

Although neither Viareggio nor San Galgano belong to Maremma, however there are plenty of beautiful towns in Maremma. I think I gave you the official tourist site already. Below is another site.
https://www.discovertuscany.com/maremma/
I used to go to natural spas in Saturnia a lot, especially in winter, which I loved. Massa Marittima, Pitigliano, Montemerano, Sovana, Sorano, Populonia, Capalbio, are just some of the towns you can visit. Grosseto itself has a beautiful historical center. And we all know about the beautiful Mt. Argentario peninsula with Porto Santo Stefano and all of that.
It's probably the most rural part of Tuscany, and least inhabited.
I also liked a lot the Parco dell'Uccellina, which is now called the Parco Regionale della Maremma. If you like nature, you'll love that.
Next to it is Talamone, a town that is famous since the middle ages for weaponry manufacturing. It was also used by Garibaldi and his cohorts, who docked in its harbor to load up weapons before heading to Sicily to start his campaign to unify Italy.
But, interestingly Talamone has been famous more recently. In the 1980s, it was used by the Reagan Administration, in cahoots with the Italian government, to ship arms to the Iranians, in the famous Iran-Contra scandal of the time. Basically the arms headed to Iran were secretly loaded on the docks at Talamone.
http://articles.latimes.com/1986-11-13/news/mn-25349_1_italian-connection
The Italian PM at the time denied, as you can see in the article above, but I'm a witness. One day in those years, I was in Talamone with my girlfriend and saw what seemed to be military trucks and other military equipment totally covered with tarps all lined up on the dock on a Sunday. All you could see was part of the tires and not much more. The colors were strange however, they didn't look like Italian military colors (and I served in the armed forces, so I knew). So, being curious, I lifted a tarp a bit and noticed that there were writings in a language that I thought was Arabic, but apparently was Farsi. I wasn't called by Congress to testify against Oliver North, but you can take my word that Talamone was indeed the place where the US government, was shipping weaponry to the Ayatollah.

Posted by
16608 posts

And don't forget to eat the Acquacotta, Cinghiale, i.e. wild boar (in all possible ways), including tortelli maremmani with wild boar sauce. On the coast they have a great fish soup called caldaro (similar to cioppino)

Posted by
10770 posts

Fascinating, Roberto!!! Thanks for sharing that little bit of personally witnessed history! Wow.