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Manarola or Vernazza? La Toretta or La Marina?

Our family of 4 (with college-age daughters) will visit Italy for 2 weeks next June. We plan a short (2-night) break for relaxation and hiking at Cinque Terre in the middle of the trip. I have read everything I can find on Cinque Terre, here, in Rick's book, and other travel forums, and have talked to friends and family members who have been there, and am still having difficulty choosing a place to stay. I am hoping you can help.

First off, I will say that I have heard and read the negative opinions about CT: that it is over-crowded, too touristy, the locals are fed up with tourists and sometimes rude, etc. But I've also read how much it is loved by some. So we want to go see for ourselves.

I am trying to choose the most pleasant/charming village, and have narrowed my choice to Manarola and Vernazza. Manarola seems to be quieter, more in the vineyards, but with deep-water swimming available (a good thing for our family). Vernazza looks stunning in the photos, but seems to be more crowded, busier. I would appreciate feedback on these impressions.

For lodging, I am more interested in a lovely view terrace than a cheap price. Not that we will spend all our time at the rooms---far from it. But at the end of a day of hiking, we like to relax on the deck or balcony with a glass of wine and just enjoy the view. Right now I am considering La Toretta in Manarola--at the high end of our price range---and La Marina Rooms in Vernazza. We would have the apartment there, which is built right into the wall you see in the photo: http://www.lamarinarooms.com/index.html
It is right above the water, but I wonder if that rock-bound terrace might be too hot to enjoy?

Anyway. . . if anyone has stayed at either place, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks for your help.

Posted by
536 posts

Lola - I've taken many groups through Le Cinque Terre - It is one of Italy's most scenic locations. As far as touristy - Well, Extremely popular places tend to draw tourists. Cinque Terre was "Discovered" by Rick Steve's and I, for one, am glad he did!! For a nice place to stay please check out Carla's website - http://www.nerinarooms.it/
Located directly on the Harbor in Vernazza and right next to Al Castello, it is a very nice location to use as a base to see the other villages.
The trail between Manarola and Riomaggiore is about a mile long, relatively flat and paved, and has a cafe halfway across for a beverage.

Posted by
120 posts

We stayed at La Marina in Vernazza in September last year. It was lovely and very much the highlight of our trip. We looked forward each night to enjoying the privacy of our own rock terrace and the view is absolutely spectacular. If you want to fall asleep to the sound of the waves hitting the rocks, this is the place for you (as long as you don't mind stairs!) I don't know how hot it will be in June, I don't believe there is AC but if you leave the windows open, it seems to pick up a nice breeze off the water.

Posted by
17436 posts

Terry---did you stay in the apartment built into the walls? I am a bit concerned that the terrace for the apartment might be too hot to enjoy. But I do love the idea of hearing the sound of the sea---I grew up in a place where we could hear the waves all night, and still love that sound.

Posted by
2193 posts

I’ve stayed at La Torretta and can recommend it highly. It's located way up near the top of town. It’s not super cheap, but it’s not the most expensive place either. You’ll enjoy a nice hotel, very clean rooms, CD player, flat screen TV on wall, shower with multiple jets, air conditioning that will run you out of the room, nice balcony with lounge chairs overlooking the sea - not sure if every room has a balcony - ask (great after dark for a drink or two…star gazing…whatever), mini-bar with beer, wine, juice, soda, etc., and great breakfast terrace outside. Manarola is quiet with few Americans and few tourists. There are a couple of ladders (like those in a pool) on the rocks, so getting into the water for a swim is easy. There’s also a small “cliff” for diving…maybe 20 feet. You can’t go wrong with La Torretta.

Posted by
120 posts

Yes, the apartment is built right into the wall - 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and a kitchen/living room area. An extra bed can be made up in the living area. The rock terrace comes off one of the bedrooms and we just left the door open all night - not much chance of anyone being able to climb up from the sea! I can send you some photos if you want. I doubt that it gets that hot in June, you could maybe check and see what the average temperature is at that time.