We're staying in Rione Monti (Rome) for 4 nights at the end of a 2 1/2 week vacation in Italy in early Fall. This is our second time in Rome. Usually by the end of the vacation taking a walk that relies on serendipity is less appealing than at the beginning of the trip; perhaps you've been there, ha! Since we're already taking several guided tours on this trip I'm looking for a self-guided walk in Monti that focuses on the beauty of the streets, facades and shop windows, and that amazing Italian sense of design. The idea is to enjoy the stroll, not so much to sight see. We've not interested in shopping but in taking in street views, facades, little street-side gardens, winding cobblestone streets. We stayed in Trastevere the first time in Rome and just loved the beauty (colors, light, vibrance, every day life) of the old neighborhood. I've spent several hours searching for a self guided walk that is similar to these ideas. I've found several articles that suggest streets in Monti but that's it so far. Does anyone have any ideas?
I would suggest you just Google Rome free walking tour. They are great tours, and work for tips. Often they have nightlife tours that they charge for that take you to reasonably priced restaurants and night clubs, etc.
A good tour guide can show you more than you will most likely see on your own. Especially in such an important travel city as Rome.
I haven't done this but it sounds like it might be decent. It's a Monti self-guided tour that you download from an app called GPS My City. Here is a link to the site:
https://www.gpsmycity.com/discovery/monti-walking-tour-83.html
Thank you both for responding, and on Christmas Eve too! If/when we decide what we're doing I'll try to remember to update this.
BTW the Lonely Planet Rome guidebook has a chapter specifically on "Monti, Esquilino &
San Lorenzo" with a 'Bars and Boutiques" map of Monti. Not quite what I'm after but I can use that map as a starting point.
Here are a few that may be useful in your search:
https://www.wanderlustingk.com/travel-blog/off-the-beaten-path-rome-guide
https://www.turismoroma.it/en/itineraries/walk-termini-station-imperial-forums-through-rione-monti
Hi Lia,
We once rented in Monti. It struck us as both a smallish, manageable neighborhood as well as somewhere where really, a specific walking route would be missing the point. Its charm seemed to invite aimless wandering. What the French call 'flaneur'.
Our Puglia TR included a chunk about Monti and I've posted that below (over on Fodors I go by 'zebec'). Hopefully you might find something of use in it.
I am done. The end.
ROME: THE FULL MONTI
Monti is a gentrified area in Rome with a hilly, village tone. It was known until recently as the wrong side of the tracks, home to hookers and thieves. Its ancient name was ‘Subura’ (‘outside the sacred center and its fire-wall’), hence our word ‘suburb’. Monti is a residential area, but it is also all about unique boutiques, whose products would make superb gifts. We can also attest to its abundance of very good restaurants. There are some real winners there.
We recommend friendly Monticiani, which is at 84 Panisperna. It is a casual caffe-bistro, more locals than tourists and features many Argentine items on its reasonably-priced menu. It is open from 7am and the service is friendly. It is our kind of unpretentious 'local' place, so we went more than once. (Mrs. Z: “Ladies, the tall owner is probably the most handsome man in Monti”).
Locals recommended a bar on v. Merulana called ‘Panella l’arte delle Pane’. It offered a wide variety of good food. Right around the corner on v. d. Statuto, there is a great cake shop. Self-caterers should know that there is a classic butcher, plus a good fish shop, in Monti.
Perennial fave bar, ‘Tre Scalini’ (three flies), seems always to be packed, so with my hearing issues, we gave it a pass. Once as we passed it on the street, we witnessed a patron cradling his tiny baby inside the bar. That was a first.
Other bars: Black Market, Libraria Caffe Bohemian and Analemma.
If you want to buy designer chocolate, then ‘Grezzo’ is a good choice, all modern and run by women. If you want rustic Calabrian deli foods, then 'Delizie di Calabria' on v. Serpenti is pretty good.
Places that we heard were good but ran out of time for:
L'Asino D'Oro, Carbonara, Urbana 47, Enoteca Cavour, Alvino, Fafiuche, la Caseta, Hasekura, Guru and Maharaj. The latter trio speak to Monti's multi-kulti component and are close to the fountain-piazza, Madonna di Monti, which serves as the ground zero/meeting place for Monti. It was at this fountain during a heat wave back in May, that some African refugee men caused controversy by stripping down to their civvies and cooling off by soaking inside the basin. Much Romanesco slang by local curmudgeons ensued. Film fans, note that Woody Allen and Alec Baldwin shot a memorable scene for ‘To Rome with Love’ just one block west on tiny v. Neofiti.
We saved the best for last:
Antico Forno Serpenti—top-quality bakery and they too, do a modest lunchtime buffet as well. Their pizza was the best that we tasted on this trip to Italy.
Which adjective best describes Monti? (circle answer)
Quirky, hip, funky, boho, cobbled, youthful, hilly, arty, bustling, trendy, gritty, twisty, vine-strewn.
A-all of the above
Who Knew? SPQR Historia: Julius Caesar was born in this neighbourhood, back when it was a tough, effluent-ridden, fire-prone slum. Juvenal wrote in his satires that the main cause of death in the noisy chaos of Subura/Monti was insomnia!
Most appealing street in Rome that has nothing whatsoever to do with Monti:
Via Giulia is hardly a secret, but at least this squisito street is right in the heart of the city.
I am done. The end.
The more I learn about the Monti area the more intriguing it sounds. It seems like we won't be short on amusement. Thanks so much for your help!