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Looking for advice on CT versus other Italian coasts

This is a question for anyone who’s familiar with the Italian coast. I’m planning a 17-day family vacation to Italy in late May 2010. It will be the first-ever trip to Europe for my wife and our 19-yr-old son (a European history major), so I want it to be special. We’re planning to spend 4 days in Venice, 4 in Florence/Siena and 5 in Rome. But we’d also like to get away from the ruins, museums, urban pavement and crowds, and spend 4 days, mid-trip, in some scenic, low-key coastal region where we can kick back, swim, eat seafood, and do lots of day hikes. We prefer rocky coasts to sandy ones, and favor working villages to glitzy resorts. Cinque Terre seems to fit the bill. But recently, I’ve been seeing more and more trip reports (on this site and others) that mention overbooked accommodations, trails and villages clogged with tourists, evenings marred by drunken students, and surly locals who are growing tired of dealing with it all.

My question to all you Italy experts on this site is: If these reports are true, is there another coastline or island you’d recommend we hit, instead? Ischia? The Cilento coast? The Gargano peninsula? Elba? I’m open to suggestions.

Any advice on this would be most appreciated. At present, our plan is to visit CT for 4 weeknights (M-Th) in late May, hit the trails early, and stay in one of the less popular villages, maybe Manarola or Riomaggiore. But if there is a better option, I’d love to hear it.

Thanks!

Posted by
2163 posts

We've enjoyed several visits to the Cinque Terre,but not for years, so I can't comment on those reports.

But the Amalfi Coast might be a good alternative. We stay at Marina del Cantone, a tiny fishing village on the Sorrento Peninsula. Lots of good hiking there. It's very quiet and kind of isolated, but beautiful and peaceful. We sleep at Hotel la Certosa, right on the beach. You can catch a boat right in front of the hotel and go to Capri (another great place to hike) or Amalfi. Or you can take the amazing bus ride down the Amalfi Coast. Or go into Sorrento and then to Pompeii. Lots to do & see. One of our favorite places!

Posted by
683 posts

If you are looking to escape crowds, the CT is the LAST place you would want to be. We took a train to CT in 2004, from Florence. It seemed as tho half of Germany and a third of England had descended there.
It has only gotten more touristy. Yes, it is a lovely place and a unique one. But it is not uncrowded.
We would suggest a sojourn along the Adriatic , which is far less travelled to.

Posted by
32303 posts

Tim,

The Cinque Terre seems to fit all the criteria you mentioned. Given that you'll be there in May and mid-week, the "drunken students" and similar types will probably be minimal.

The trails between the five towns are beautiful, and staying in that area would also give you some time to explore Portovenere or other villages in that area. There are some trails that branch off and go to small villages higher in the hills, however I can't recall the details.

The Gargano peninsula is also beautiful, especially around Vieste. I don't have any information on what type of hiking might be available there?

The Amalfi Coast is generally more "touristy" (especially around Positano and Sorrento), but there are some smaller places outside the main towns that might be suitable.

Happy travels!

Posted by
57 posts

Tim, I was with a walking tour group in Cinque Terre 3 yrs ago..(thewayfarers.com). We went in mid Sept and I don't recall any of those negatives. Keep in mind Cinque Terre is a group of 5 very small hilltowns virtually built right on the rocks...accomodations are not plentiful, and I would say the level of sophistication is still a bit behind. Santa Margarita is a charming coastal town, bigger and more offerings. If you go to the above website, you can see the hotels the wayfarers use...they typically utilize very nice accomodations.As for "glitzy", I don't think there are a lot of them in CT period!! There are a lot of hiking choices, some are on the old Roman trails and can be quite challenging. Bring good hiking boots with ankle support. Or else sprout cloven hooves to scramble up the rocks. If the spring has been very wet, bear in mind that some trails may well be washed out.

Posted by
319 posts

Although CT has all the activities you want, it is quite swamped with tourists. Like the first response I recomend somewhere further south. We stayed in a village above Massa Lubrense. It was a very relaxing location. Since we were there in November we didn't swim or hike. But I loved the area and wish we had spent more that 4 days there.
You could also look at beach towns near Venice. Caorle is east of Venice. I haven't been, but my best friend loved her stay there. She said it had the fishing village feel, but still a beach to relax on.

Posted by
65 posts

We stayed in Monterosso for 4 nights the second weekend of May(Thurs. thru Tues). Yes, there were a good number of people in town but not horrible. Just enough to let me know that we would never want to go in the summer. We always had a seat on the train, never had to wait for a table at restaurants in Manarola, Vernazza (both for lunch)or for dinners in Monterosso. Everyone was pleasant - no surly Italians. And we didn't run into any drunken college students, but maybe they don't spend their evenings in the old town of Monterosso. And no overcrowding on the trails and we hiked between all the villages. Things could be more crowded later in the month, I don't know. We had a lovely time, great meals, terrific views and would definitely go back - but never in the summer.

Posted by
13 posts

At this moment we are staying at the most wonderful Villa in Lerici. It is a coastal down, south of CT, and absolutely amazing. Check out this site: www.villainlerici.it

GianLuca is an amzing host, the villa is beautiful, the views amazing. We are at the end of our trip, and have found it an amazing place for relaxing and resting.

Posted by
3580 posts

If you start your hike early in the day (7-9am) you will beat most of the crowd. Vernazza is that picturesque little town that is the most over-run of the 5 towns. The other towns are less hectic. I like to stay in Monterosso, and have stayed in La Spezia near the train station. Santa Margherita is an hour away by train from the CT and is less touristy. There is a trail from Santa Margherita to Portofino. I've taken a boat. There is also a bus. Bonassola is another town in that area that is small but not overrun. I think it has a beach.

Posted by
21 posts

thanks for all the advice! it's much appreciated. i'll share it with my board of advisers (wife and son) and see what they think. being that we will likely be slammed with crowds on our other stops (Venice, Florence and Rome), we really want to pick a place that has a quaint, small-town feel for this leg of the trip. your insights and suggestions are a big help.

thanks again!

Posted by
2257 posts

We were in CT in 2005, the Gargano this year, both in May. Stayed in Riomaggiore in CT, Vieste in Gargano. We went "through" the Amalfi coast in 2007 on the bus (stayed in Sorrento). We have also been on the Adriatic coast. For my money, it's CT. I would stay in Manarola next time. I think your plan sounds great. Another town we enjoyed in that area was Camogli.

Posted by
32303 posts

Tim,

If you decide to try the Cinque Terre, I'd also recommend looking at either Manarola or Riomaggiore for lodgings, as they're a bit smaller.

Cheers!