Please sign in to post.

Levanto or Monterosso as base for Cinque Terra?

I am looking for a spot to base myself for several days (April 6-8) and have a few things to consider. I am driving, so the location must car-accessible and have parking available. I will be with two other friends for one day and then they plan to stay hike to and stay in Vernazza for two nights (not an option for the guy with the car). Obviously, I would like to join them for day hikes, sights and such, then return to my base by train in the evening.
Monterosso seems like the obvious choice although it has far fewer lodging options than Levanto (and a more challenging drive to get there I bet).
What would be recommendations so far?

Next... I am coming back from a knee injury and I'm not sure how well I will be able to take the famed paths, but could end up taking the train between towns. I was considering staying Monterosso and walking the coast path to test the knee, and then bailing to the train at Vernazza if I have to. Thoughts on this? Are there any bailout points between Vernazza and Monterosso? What about paths to the rest of the five towns? I hope for the best, but...

That is the germ of the idea. I look forward to suggestions from those who know the area better than my web browser!
thanks in advance. Joel Johnson

Posted by
4637 posts

Stay in Monterosso. There are no bailout points. Don't test your knee on the trail from Monterosso to Vernazza. That part is the most demanding of the whole trail. Endless steps up; I saw a lot of people giving it up and then walking down which is not good for knee, either. Second most demanding part of the trail is Vernazza to Corniglia. Very hilly. I would suggest go by train to Riomaggiore and then walk to Manarola - easy and almost level trail, it continues to Corniglia train station, also easy. So: by train to Riomaggiore then walk to Corniglia train station and by train back to Monterosso. To get from Corniglia train station to the town you either have to walk on the steep road up or take their shuttle bus which connects train station with the town. You probably won't have beach weather in April but with the global warming who knows. Nice beaches are in Monterosso and Guvano beach in Corniglia. That one is clothing optional. You get to it by walking through an abandoned tunnel from the Corniglia train station. My first time in Cinque Terre we made a mistake and drove to Vernazza. Parked almost two km above the town. There is a very small parking at the edge of the town but of course it was full. Leave your car parked in Monterosso and go by train (I don't know if boats are going that early in the season).

Posted by
16775 posts

Hi Joel -
My vote would be for Montetrosso if nothing else to be a little closer to where your friends will be. We like that one, too.

Unfortunately for your knee, the path between Monterosso and Vernazza is one of the more challenging stretches of the coastal Sentiero Azzurro (#2 Blue Trail), and no, there's really no bail-out spot between them. Certainly no place where you could catch a train to either town. I'd give it a go and just take your time, or turn around and go back if it's clear that it'll be too much.

To add to the complexities, it's not unusual for legs of the #2 to be closed to damage: you can see which ones are currently closed here (if it's current: no updates since May, 2014)

http://savevernazza.com/traveladvisortrailupdates/

If you haven't found the C.T. park website yet, here it is (below). They don't always keep trail status completely up to date but those can also close at any time due to heavy rains or rock slides anyway so it's cross your fingers! There are nice hikes other than the #2, and there's a page of suggestions on the "Save Vernazza" link I provided above.

http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/?id_lingue=2

The Corniglia - Manarola leg of the #2 closed to a landslide some years back and it's doubtful when - or even if - that one will be reopened so, for sure, you will be taking a train between those two villages and I'm pretty sure Manarola and Riomaggiore as well.

There is parking in Monterosso but it's best someone else provide advice there as while I saw the lots, we weren't driving.

Posted by
16775 posts

To add: that easy leg of the #2 between Manarola and Riomaggiore is more of a paved sidewalk than a "trail", and has been closed for a couple of years due to rock fall. It's supposed to re-open sometime this year but I haven't seen an actual date for that.

Posted by
32405 posts

Joel,

Although it's not "officially" part of the Cinque Terre, staying in Levanto is certainly an option as it's only about four minutes by train from Monterosso. Although Monterosso may have "fewer lodging options", I'd suggest staying there if at all possible. Tourist season will be just getting underway at the beginning of April, and you should be able to find accommodations without too much trouble.

As you've probably noted from previous comments here, having a car in the C.T. is about as useful as a boat anchor as it will sit in a lot gathering dust and parking charges during your stay there. It's not possible to drive in the C.T. towns, however Monterosso has car parks at both the end of the "new town" and the end of the "old town". The old town parkade was being constructed last time I was there, but I've heard that it's now open. Which car park to use will depend to some extent on which hotel you're staying in. A few hotels there have limited parking such as Villa Adriana in the new town(as I recall) and in the old town have a look at Hotel Villa Steno. Hopefully Roberto will spot this Thread as he can provide very precise directions on how to drive into Monterosso.

A few notes on hiking (some of which were mentioned in the previous reply).....

  • If you have knee issues, I would NOT recommend the trail from Monterosso to Vernazza, as it's the most challenging of the Sentiero Azzurro trails. There's quite a climb at the Monterosso end, and some of the stone stairs have a high "rise" so it's hard on the knees. You'll also have to contend with the downhill trek into Vernazza, and I find that going downhill is often harder on knees than climbing.
  • There are NO places you can "bail" once you're on the trail. You're committed and will have to finish the hike.
  • The segment from Vernazza to Cornigila is almost as difficult.
  • The segment from Corniglia to Manarola has been closed most of the time for the last few years, so it may not even be open.
  • The segment from Manarola to Riomaggiore (Via dell' Amore) is the easiest and you'd have no trouble with that, as it's more of a "stroll" than a "hike". However it's been closed since Sept. 2012 following a massive rock slide that seriously injured four Australian tourists. It's supposed to be open again this year, but not sure exactly when that will be?

Note that a Park Pass is required to hike any of those trails (there WILL be someone checking for Passes).

Posted by
16243 posts

What kind of friends are they if they leave you all alone in Monterosso? Why can't they stay in Monterosso with you? What's the matter with them? Let me talk to them and they'll have a earful from this nearly old Italian guy.

Once they finish the hike in Vernazza they can take the train back to Monterosso and stay with you in the evenings. It takes less than 5 min. by train and there are dozens of trains going back and forth every day. Besides Monterosso is 1000 times better than Vernazza. There are too many Yanks in Vernazza, it will be like you never left home.

These are the driving directions. I've done it many times. It's curvy but not difficult. The last portion is a bit narrow although is a two way road. Remember that the vehicle going uphill has the right of way by law, the one going downhill has to bear to the side and let to the other vehicle coming up go through the narrow portion of the road.

Take the A12 freeway. Not sure if you come from Genoa or La Spezia, but the exit is the same. It's called Carrodano-Levanto. After you exit and pay toll, turn left toward Levanto (not Carrodano). follow the road all the way to Levanto. Eventually you reach a roundabout. You take the 3rd exit of the roundabout toward the CINQUE TERRE. Follow that road. Watch out it's curvy. Eventually the road splits. If your hotel is in the new part of Monterosso (recommended with a car) go straight toward LUNGOMARE FEGINA. For Lungomare Fegina drive straight all the way to the beach (or your hotel if it comes earlier). On the Lungomare Fegina side there is a large parking lot on the beach. But some hotels have (small) parking too. Otherwise at the crossroads mentioned above you turn left to the old town (MONTEROSSO CENTRO STORICO). Parking is probably not as plentiful in the lot on the historical center side, but I haven't driven there lately, so I don't know. Actually just before the crossroads above, there is the crossroads where you can drive to Vernazza and all other Cinque Terre towns. Although you can drive to Vernazza, however the real problem is the parking there.

If you can't find accommodations in Monterosso, then try Levanto or Bonassola. Both are minutes from Monterosso by train (I prefer Bonassola). No Americans there, so you will feel like you actually went overseas. I don't know if your knees can take a bike ride, but there is a bike path from Levanto to Bonassola to Framura. It's all flat on a decommissioned rail line converted into bike path. Just as beautiful as the "official" Cinque Terre.

Posted by
808 posts

We have stayed in Monterosso several times, and do like the town, and feel that there are sufficient restaurant and cafe/bar choices. The Hotel Villa Steno has several parking spots, in addition to being clean and having wonderful views. So look into staying there.

You've already received excellent advice re hiking the trails.

Posted by
5301 posts

Joel,

You have received sound advise by the other posters.

I agree with the others, Monterosso is a good option for you & you can easily travel to the other villages via train since it only takes about 5 minutes from one village to the next.

I have a question for you since you posted this:

I will be with two other friends for one day and then they plan to stay hike to and stay in Vernazza for two nights (not an option for the guy with the car). Obviously, I would like to join them for day hikes, sights and such, then return to my base by train in the evening.

Is it absolutely necessary for you to keep the car while you're visiting the Cinque Terre?

I don't know where you are traveling from/to, but have you considered renting the car after visiting the CT?

Posted by
506 posts

I agree with what everyone had to say. I just booked rooms for two couples for three days in May in Monterosso and let me tell you it was hard finding hotels with rooms available. April might be lower season but I would first do some checking right away and see if it is possible.

Posted by
16775 posts

So what if you parked the car in, say, La Spezia, and took the train in? Then you could stay with your friends in Vernazza.

Posted by
38 posts

I never cease to be amazed by this group! Thank you for your incredible ideas.

I should probably mention a couple things.

  1. I am actually spending 4 months in Europe, UK and Ireland, and wish to hang out in the more out-of-the-way places not accessible by train/bus. That is why I am driving (leasing a car from AutoEurope). However, I will also be going to places like Rome, Paris and London where I will NOT be driving. I am looking to base myself outside of major cities and take the train in daily. It is a compromise but that's OK. Example, I will stay in Padua while my friends stay in Venice itself, I will meet up with them.

  2. Said friends are a couple, and I will never begrudge them their romantic evenings in Venice or Vernazza. Roberto, as a (nearly old?) Italian, you will understand. :-)

  3. Since I have to essentially pack for winter, spring and summer weather, I am failing to fulfill the packing light goal. I will have a backpack for whatever the current conditions dictate, but a rolling duffel in the car with everything else. Leaving the car in a car park for several days with my stuff in the back would make me uncomfortable, so I look for those places I can store the big bag inside.

All this does complicate travel plans, and I can't just pop off to somewhere by grabbing my pack and jumping on the train. Also, I have never traveled for 4 months straight, anywhere. I will be learning a lot for future trips, which of course is rather the point. I am relying heavily on my readings from Rick and these forums. Thanks to all! j2

Posted by
38 posts

I am confirmed for Monterroso, and all three of us will be there for the duration. We all thank you for your help! j2

Posted by
16775 posts

Excellent! You're going to have a wonderful time, and don't let that knee keep you from trying a bit of exploring. Even if it's not quite up to handling the trails, just some climbs (take your time) to the little village cemeteries and churches in the upper reaches will be fun: great views from up there.

Posted by
32405 posts

Joel,

It's great to hear that you've got a booking in Monterosso, as that can sometimes be "challenging". If you need any information on restaurants or whatever in Monterosso, post another note.

As you're be in Europe four months, I assume you're aware of the provisions of the the Schengen Treaty.

Posted by
16775 posts

Very good point from Ken: you do know you're limited to 90 days within a 6-month period in the Schengen?

Posted by
38 posts

Oh yes, I have the Schengen visa thing covered, and will come in under the 90 days. I am spending at least a month in UK and Ireland. Which I was planning to do anyway, so it works out just fine.