Lake Como: Train issues & long ferry queues?…

The route is heavily used by both locals and tourists both staying and daytrippers. I'd avoid rush hours or get a taxi from Milan if not traveling light because you need to line up to catch a ferry from Varenna to Menaggio after getting off the train with your bags and then off the ferry to get to the lodging .June is the start of peak travel season compared to visiting in October,

We went on the Milan-Varenna route two years ago. We traveled to Varenna in the mid afternoon and it was fine. For the return we ignored some very good advice and took a mid morning train right after we had to be out of the rental. It was mobbed, we stood shoulder to shoulder for the entire trip. Probably would have been better if we had left earlier or later.

Pregnant people, regardless of gender, have priority seating on Trenord trains. Look for seats with the handicapped sign (wheelchair) generally located near the exits at the end of the cars. If your DIL is visibly pregnant, I’m sure passengers will offer a seat.

Also on the ferries, communicate to the crew personnel that you may need assistance and priority seating. Tell your son to learn to say:
MIA MOGLIE È INCINTA
Or
MIA MOGLIE È IN STATO DI GRAVIDANZA
you can use Google translate to hear the pronunciation.

The crew will get her a seat, if necessary by throwing overboard any passenger carrying a Rick Steves’ Guidebook, since those people are known in Varenna to be only trouble.

Jazz + Travels, and George,

Thanks for your suggestion to take a taxi.

I think they’ll be okay upon arrival to Varenna to catch the ferry across to Menaggio, and they plan to take an early ferry on day of departure.

Roberto da Firenze,
Thank you!
I’ll make sure my son memorizes those words. But… I’m quite sure we don’t want anyone to be thrown overboard!

maybe I am mistaken, but last May when I was on the lake, there were plenty tickets that could be bought offline right near the ferry without seats booked

everyone sat where it was free

We took the train from Tirano to Varenna on a weekday in April, arriving Varenna 6:36PM. The train had o seating issues. The problem was exiting the train while the huge hoard of day trippers returning to Milan pushed on en masse and not letting anyone off the train. We were almost knocked over in the aisle, I add to scream at them like a madman (since I cannot scream in Italian) and as a 73 year old man lower my shoulder and push like all get-out, while clearing path for my 73 year old partner. - the crowd also did not care that they were pushing down an olde lady. Leaving there mid-Saturday morning to travel to Milan did not present any of these issues.

While you shouldn't face this issue exiting in Varenna as most people are not heading north, be wary of how you board the train going to Milan if this is late afternoon as you will be part of that horde, and seating may also be an issue.

To find a seat on the way back to Milan, if at a peak time, the trick is to backtrack.

When you go to Milan, first take the train in the opposite direction, by going north to Bellano or even better to Dervio.

Then once in those towns, take the train south to Milan. You will have your seat, while hordes of Barbarians will board the train in Varenna fighting to enter the train and get a seat.

Make sure you have a ticket to go from Varenna to Dervio, then one from Dervio to Milan.

Learned that trick commuting on BART trains for years, and it works in Italy as well.

Oh, my goodness!

I’m so sorry I didn’t come back to thank you all for your helpful replies!

adamltisom, Larry, and Roberto da Firenze, Thank you, thank you!

Roberto,
This sounds like a great idea!
Why do you recommends going further North than Bellano?

Is it because Bellano is only 4-5 minute train journey and they have to get off almost as soon as they’ve boarded?