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Lake Como or Lake Maggiore - where to stay?

Hello,
we would like to spend about 3 days (and 4 nights) in the Lake Region at the beginning of September. We would like to explore both lakes and may be take a day trip to Lugano. We are flying into Milan Airport and I want to go directly to the Lake Region. Do we need a car to travel from one lake to another? Most of the posts suggest the car will be a liability there, but is there a public transportation between the lakes? how often it runs? how long does it take? Also, if we do rent a car to travel between the lakes, how are the roads in the region? Are they very windy mountain roads or they are not so difficult to drive? how lond does it take for a car to travel from one lake to another? The same question is about Lugano. Can we venture there for a day or half-day without a car? My husband used to drive in Europe, he is ok with it, but if the roads are too challenging I don't want him to get stressed on his vacation. Looking for the advise. Also, what will be a good base to do that?

Posted by
32222 posts

Kira, For visits on Lake Como, most here prefer to stay in the small town of Varenna, which is about an hour from Milan by train. You can easily travel there on the day of arrival, but the easiest route is from Milano Centrale (which you can reach from the airport via Shuttle or train). It's a beautiful location with a lakefront promenade (which has some great Gelato shops!). Lugano is also about an hour by train from Milan, and it's a very easy trip. You could (for example) travel from Varenna to Lugano for the day and then continue to Lake Maggiore. The travel times wouldn't allow much time, but it is possible. For Lake Maggiore, my preference would be to stay in Stresa. It's a beautiful city and while there you could tour some of the Borromeo Islands. The large mansion and gardens on Isola Bella are beautiful. Rather than visit Lugano, another option would be to visit Locarno (Switzerland) on a day trip from Stresa. Travel in one direction via the scenic Cento Valli railway, and return by boat. It's a long day, but very enjoyable! The Hotel Owner kindly arranged the tickets for me, and they were delivered to the Hotel within half an hour! I prefer travel by rail in that area, as it's usually quicker and no worries about parking, IDP's, ZTL's, etc. Three days / four nights is not a long time to visit three locations, but I suppose it's possible. Happy travels!

Posted by
247 posts

Spend two nights in Stresa and two nights in Menaggio. There's no need to drive. Lake Maggiore is the nearest lake to Malpensa. Take the Alibus from Malpensa directly to Stresa. http://www.safduemila.com/alibus_2011_malpensalagomaggiore.html Take the Alibus back to Malpensa and take the Le Nord line to Como Lago, also known as Como Nord Lago, with a change in Saronno. http://www.malpensaexpress.it/ There's a fast ferry from Como to Menaggio. http://www.navlaghi.it/eng/index.asp http://www.navlaghi.it/file/PDF_vari/NLC_Serv_Rapido_estate11.pdf Lake Como's middle area is beautiful. Menaggio has a ferry port and bus service to Lugano, SPT C12. http://www.asfautolinee.it/Lineeeorari/Orariolineeinpdf/Reteextraurbana/tabid/245/language/it-IT/Default.aspx
http://www.asfautolinee.it/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=UEW6HJooj4M%3d&tabid=245&mid=2289&language=it-IT

Posted by
13 posts

Thank you Giovanna.
It was actually my next question. If we spend two nights at one lake and two at another is it a better option. That will allow us to avoid driving back and forth which I understand can take long time during the high season with all the traffic. The downside to it though it that we would have to pack and move after two nights and that is not relaxing. What hotels would you recommend at both places. We are looking for a true 4-start hotel. it doesn't have to be white glove service but something really really good.

Posted by
247 posts

Lake Garda is a beautiful lake, but not with flights to Malpensa. Are you now driving? That would completely change recommendations. Two lakes better make better use of your time. Star ratings are not what you think in Italy. Each region has its own rules and there is no common grounds for comparison. You could find some 3 star hotels with a better level of service than a 4 star hotel. The stars reflect the hotel's amenities like a restaurant, pool, or porter. If don't rent the car, take a look at Hotel Residence La Luna Nel Porto in Stresa, but if you do rent a car, Hotel Cannero in Riviera Cannero is worth a look. With a car, you could stay in Bellagio, or even Hotel Stella d'Italia in San Mamete Valsolda, still in Italy but on Lake Lugano and half an hour from Menaggio.

Posted by
5 posts

Lako Como or Lake Maggiore? I would say Lake of Garda. Almost unknown to american tourists but very popular with european, specially germans, is the biggest italian lake and, to my opinion, the most beautiful. And if I can suggest the northen part with Riva del Garda, a wonderful town with one of a nicest beaches of the lake.
Well, now I must say that I come from that part of Italy, but no jokes, it's a pity that almost no american come to there, I'm sure it would be a nice discover...

Posted by
32222 posts

Kira, A few additional comments to my previous post.... If you decide to visit locations that are easily reached by rail, there's absolutely no need to rent a car. Varenna and Stresa are very easily reached from Milan, and even Menaggio is only a short ferry ride from Varenna. If you do decide that a rental car will fit your plans better, here are my "usual comments" about driving in Italy: One important point to note is that for driving in Italy, each driver must have the compulsory International Driver's Permit, which is used in conjunction with your home D.L. These are valid for one year, and easily obtained at any AAA office (two Passport-sized photos required, which in some case is offered at the issuing office). Failure to produce an IDP if requested can result in fines on the spot! Have a look at This Website for more detailed information. You may also want to have a look at some of the other posts here concerning the dreaded Zona Traffico Limitato areas that are becoming increasingly prevalent in many Italian towns & cities ( especially Florence!). EACH PASS through one of the automated Cameras will result in a €100+ ticket! A GPS along with a good Map would also be a good idea. Be sure to also give some thought to the question of CDW. If you accept the CDW offered by the rental firm, it will be expensive but will provide "peace of mind". Some "premium" credit cards provide rental vehicle insurance, however I've found this to be somewhat complicated so I just accept that offered by the rental firm. Check the Car Rental section in Europe Through The Back Door for further information. Cheers!

Posted by
13 posts

Giovanna,
what would be your recommendation of we are driving? Initially I was thinking of renting a car at the airport, get to Lake Como, spend there the rest of the day and the next day. On the third day take a drive to Lake Maggiore for a day. Day after may be trip to Lugano. Or may be stop in Lugano on the way to L. Maggiore.

Posted by
247 posts

Are you going anywhere else after the lakes? That could decide the direction of your route. If you rent a car, you could base on one lake, and you might find that more relaxing than moving around. Lake Lugano is easily reached from Lake Como. Locarno on Lake Maggiore (via Lugano) is only an hour and twenty minutes from Menaggio. If you prefer to base on one lake and not move around, stay on Lake Como. If you'd like to stay on each lake, your initial plan with two nights on Lake Como, then Lugano, and Lake Maggiore would work. You could change your direction and begin on Lake Maggiore depending on your next destination.

Posted by
13 posts

Giovanna, thank you for your reply. The full itinerary for 15 days (14 nights) looks as following: Fly into Milan on September 2nd, pick up rental car and drive to Lake Como 3.5 days (4 nights) at Lake Como then move to Ligure coast, base most likely at St. Margerita, spend 2.5 days (3 nights) there with visit to Cinque Terre, drive to Ravenna to see their frescoes, not sure if we will overnight there or not drive to Venice for 2 or 3 nights drive via Padua to Verona, overnight in Verona drive to Milan for 2 nights there (returning the car as soon as we get there) fly on 15-th day out of Milan I appreciate critique and suggestions/opinions on this itinerary. I know that for some people it would see a lot but we've done similar trips in the past and enjoyed them. This seem to be to have a good combination of big cities and small towns, cultural sightseeing and nature. Are there ways to make this itinerary more efficient or more pleasant?
In Ligure we would love to enjoy the beach in the morning and then drive to CT in the afternoon. Someone suggested to stay at Forte dei Marmi. Would that suit us better than St. Margerita? Should we try to make day trip to Genoa from there or keep it for the next time?

Posted by
247 posts

It's a bit of a trade-off. Judging from your comment about not finding it relaxing if you were to move after two nights, you would probably prefer one base, and since your itinerary indicates Lake Como, it does appear that you have decided to spend all your nights on Lake Como. But given that you will be driving to Santa Margherita Ligure from the lakes, you could base two nights on Lake Como and two nights on Lake Maggiore. The drive from Lake Como to Santa Margherita Ligure is about three hours and fifteen minutes. The drive from Stresa to Santa Margherita Ligure is only two and a half hours. Santa Margherita Ligure is far more charming than Forte dei Marmi. Take the train to the Cinque Terre from Santa Margherita Ligure. The trail from Corniglia to Manarola is closed, so plan your day accordingly. Expect a three and a half hour drive from Santa Margherita Ligure to Ravenna. Driving is insane in Milan. Return the car in Verona and take the train from Verona to Milan. Although the lakes are relaxing and a good first stop, you might find it more relaxing to reverse your itinerary and begin in Milan, avoiding a car rental on arrival after jet lag. You could take the train from the airport to Milan, and then take the train to Verona and Venice. Rent the car as you leave Venice, drive to Ravenna and the Riviera, and base on Lake Maggiore since Lake Maggiore is nearest Malpensa.

Posted by
13 posts

Giovanna, great suggestions! the reason we are going to Venice at the end is that there is film festival running there till Sep 10, trying to avoid visiting at this time. I have several options for stay on Lake Como. Hotel Du Lac - mini suit on top floor, lake view from terrace Albergo Lenno -lake view room, no balcony Hotel Darsena - side room with lake and road view and balcony.
Which one to choose?

Posted by
247 posts

All great choices, but Hotel Du Lac would be your best room with terrace and views. However Lenno and Tremezzo are well located for seeing Lake Lugano.

Posted by
247 posts

Hotel du Lac would then be your best room and Bellagio would be your best location. You can ferry over to Menaggio when you go to Lugano, or even Argegno for Stresa.

Posted by
32222 posts

Kira, If you have a LARGE travel budget and want to stay in Bellagio, you could also consider Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. It's not cheap but I'm sure you'd be VERY comfortable! Cheers!

Posted by
13 posts

Hi Ken,
The only room I saw for Villa C. was a suit for over EUR 3,000. I don't think it's worth it. I do like nice surroundings, comfortable room and bed, clean bathrooms, lake view, stylish furniture. I hope that I can find some of those qualities in Hotel Du Lac. Also, staying in Bellagio we may reconsider renting a car for this leg of the trip. transportation options seem to be good in Bellagio. We may get there from the airport either via hotel shuttle if such exists or by getting a taxi (we are not light packers so taking non-direct train is a hassle), spend 3-4 nights and then get back to the airport, pick up rental car there and continue to Ligure from there.

Posted by
32222 posts

Kira, Actually, Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni currently shows Deluxe Double Rooms with breakfast starting at €520 (depending on date). I'm sure you'll be very comfortable at Hotel du Lac. Taking a Taxi from MXP to Bellagio will NOT be cheap. If you're not renting a car for that portion of the trip, my usual suggestion would be to take the train or Malpensa Shuttle (Bus) to Milano Centrale, and then train from there to Varenna (1H:03M from Milano Centrale). On arrival in Varenna, walk down the hill and take the Ferry to Bellagio (dock is right across from Albergo Olivedo - travel time about 20M). The walk down the hill won't be difficult if you have rolling luggage, as it's not far. However, there may be Taxis available at the station in Varenna. However, as you're not "light packers", another option would be to take the TreNord rail line from Malpensa to Como (I believe Como Nord Lago is the correct station). Travel time will vary from 59M - 100M depending on which train you use. From Como, use the Ferry or Aliscafo (Hydrofoil) to Bellagio. The Hydrofoil will of course be faster, but they don't travel as often as the Ferries so you may not be able to connect with one. You may find it helpful to have a look at This Website. Cheers!

Posted by
13 posts

Thank you Ken and Giovanna forl your suggestions. Decided to take a room at Du Lac. We will stay there for 3 nights and then will take flytolake shuttle back to the airport, pick the rental car and drive to Stresa for one night. Should get there in the early afternoon which will allow us to see at least one island and may be see something next morning and then off to Ligure. Will be taking flytolake shuttle on arrival as well, it comes to 100Euro for 2 of us one way. Still not cheap, but cheaper than taxi and less hassle than train/bus/ferry with luggage.
How do people move around lake Como when they don't have a car? How to reach Villa Carlotta? How to reach the restaurants? I read that ferries stop running in the evening. What time exactly? Are limited to Bellagio for all our dinners? What are recommendations for Bellagio dining? It'll be my husband's birthday, looking for a special place.