We are looking to go to Lake Como in March 2018. We were hoping to stay in Bellagio or Varenna for a few nights. As we started planning we discovered that many hotels are closed until mid April in those areas. There are a few that are open in Como. We could stay in Como and take day trips up the lake. However, we are now starting to wonder if many shops/restaurants will also be closed in March. Has anyone been there that time of year? Would you recommend it? We often travel in the off season but we may be pushing it this time. Thanks for your help!
The towns are mostly dead in winter. Many year-round residents are gone. The wet, winter chill can be a challenge for some. Very cold and windy. For some like me, the winter visuals can be spectacular. I don't need people around to have fun. But typical tourist services are at a bare minimum.
To answer the original question, my husband and I stayed in Bellagio in 2014 at the beginning of March. I think I contacted every hotel I could find, and the only one open at that time was the Hotel Suisse, a quirky b&b, right across from the dock. We were the only guests staying there, which was a bit creepy at night, as they were not officially open, but we were locked in and safe. We had a fabulous view of the lake from our balcony, and it was romantic being on the lake. During the day workers were painting and getting the b&b ready for the tourist season, so we went out touring. There was a restaurant downstairs, where we were served the included continental restaurant, and we ate dinner, which served the best osso bucco I ever had.
All of the "tourist spots" on the lake were closed until the end of March, beginning of April, but the ferry was running, so we went to Como for one day, where there were plenty of shops and restaurants open, we took the finicular up to Brunate for a hike and great views, and we went to Menaggio another day to catch the bus to Lugano, Switzerland for a lovely day trip. Menaggio seemed less touristy, and there were plenty of locals out and about, with local businesses open. Bellagio was quiet with hardly any tourists, but there were a few shops and cafes open. Varenna, which is smaller and quieter, had nothing going on, and I would not recommend staying there off season.
We returned to Bellagio and Varenna this past June, and the atmosphere was completely different compared to our visit in March. The area was more vibrant and bustling, as the flowers had bloomed and there was much more activity. There were hoardes of tourists, and the weather was hot and sticky, but there were private boats on the lake giving tours, and lots of lakeside dining and shopping, giving the area the resort feeling it is known for. The area is so beautiful any time of the year, so I would not pass up the opportunity to visit off season if that is all that works with your schedule, but be aware that there will be limitations as to how much there will be to see and do.
I stayed in Como in late November and took the ferry to other towns on the lake. Everywhere I went, there were many locals - including schoolchildren - out and about, but most tourist-oriented businesses were closed. Staying in Como might be the best answering terms of amenities available, but you will be living like a local, more than if you travel in high season.