Lake Como and Cinque Terre

Hi Julie. I've never managed to get to Lake Como on my previous trips to Italy, but I have been to the Cinque Terre a few times, including last month. (I consider going to Lake Como on my recent trip, but it was rainy while I was nearby, whereas it was clear for a few more days in the Italian Riviera.)

It's easy to get to the Cinque Terre by train from Milan, and late September/early October is a great time to go. You may still get good hiking weather. But as you've probably learned by now, the place has become very popular and sometimes unpleasantly crowded. You can avoid some but not all of the crowding, most likely. If you want to hike, there are ways to avoid some of crowds e.g. by hiking alternate trails. Last month (not my first visit to the Cinque Terre), I hiked from Levanto to Monterosso and from Manarola to Corniglia via Volastra - a steep, steep hike up many steps to Volastra but with amazing views down. The latter hike was not exactly clear of other hikers, but it was surely much less busy than the ones between Corniglia to Vernazza and Vernazza to Monterosso. The one between Levanto and Monterosso was even less crowded.

People have different preferences for which village to stay in. I've actually never stayed in any of the five villages - always stayed in Levanto, one town north of Monterosso. It's a little cheaper and quieter up there, and the trains to Levanto are still included in the CT hiking/train pass. Levanto is a nice town, too, though much more conventional than the five villages.

If I didn't care about cost, I might prefer Riomaggiore, Manarola, or Corniglia. Manarola is the smallest. Corniglia is more isolated because it's up the hill from the train station, and the ferry doesn't stop there. Vernazza is nice but very crowded (Rick Steves's favorite CT town.) Monterosso is the largest and more "resorty" with the biggest beach area of any of the five towns, if that matters to you.

There's more to the lovely Italian Riviera than just the Cinque Terre, FYI. The Portofino peninsula to the north of the CT for example has some nice towns (Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Rapallo for example) and its own hiking opportunities - but it's much less crowded than the CT.

In the Lake Como area, sleep in the mid-lake area (Varenna, Bellagio or Menaggio), not in the town of Como.

Regrettably Lake Como and the CT not really in the same "area." For a bucket-list trip with three half days currently devoted to travel (1/2 day start to destination 1; 1/2 day to destination 2; 1/2day back to start) maybe pick one area and really enjoy it. For example, it is at least 4 hours from the Como area to the CT towns.

https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html

For Lake Como/Lugano: Lake Como is in a beautiful area, and Lake Lugano is also really pretty. Lots to do. You will only have six nights on site and can spend the time doing local travel. Come back for the second part of the list entry.

If I wanted to spend some time doing something really different in the Como area I might splurge and take the Gotthard- Panorama Express from Lugano to Lucerne across the Gotthard pass and down Lake Lucerne by boat to Lucerne, stay overnight and take the quick train back. The train trip is amazing.
https://www.sbb.ch/en/freizeit-ferien/reisen-schweiz/panoramareisen/gotthard-panorama-express.html?tracking-marketingurl=gotthard-panorama-express

If you pick the CT I second the notion of staying in Levanto - we loved it there and it was much less crowded that the five towns. Hike, eat, wander at your will.

I could not pull myself away from Lake Como to visit Lake Lugano until my fifth trip. It was very nice but not as nice as Lake Como in my eyes.

Julie,
In early June, my wife and I flew into Milan, spent a couple of days in Milan and then drove to Lugano and then to Varenna, where we stayed 2 days. I agree with Suki that while Lugano is very nice, we enjoyed the Lake Como area more. Be advised that you may have trouble getting a place to stay in the Lake Como area as it books up early. Getting to many of the towns around Lake Como is possible by train from Milan. When at the lake, ferries can bring you to most of the other locations on the lake. We enjoyed both Bellagio and Menaggio.
You might also consider spending 2 days in Milan.

Ed

Andrew, Kent, Nick, Suki and Ed - thank you all! I so appreciate the quick replies and the suggestions you’ve offered. It’s a tough choice! I need to give thought as to whether I am better served selecting one or the other rather than try see to both places. And it sounds like I need to do this quickly or I will have trouble finding a place to stay. It’s a bit overwhelming to plan on my own.... I know I’ll fly in and out of Milan and take a train to Como or CT. So perhaps it’s just deciding on where to stay (in mid-lake for Como, in Levanto for CT) and if there are any specific things we want to do (such as the Gotthard train from Como). If any of you have recommendations for places you’ve stayed or great places to eat (we’re not into places too fancy...just great local food/drink in a great atmosphere), I’d love to hear from you. As bucket lists go, these places are both on the list and it’s our 20th anniversary so I’m having a hard time picking! We want this to be a somewhat leisurely vacation, not over-scheduled but still with things planned so we make the most of the trip for things to see and experience, plus the great food and beautiful vistas!

At the risk of throwing a curve ball into this conversation....would any of you suggest a tour of the Amalfi Coast over Como or CT? It wasn’t on my bucket list but suggested to me recently by a friend. I’ve heard it’s beautiful, too, but I’m worried it’s a place that’s a bit too glitzy for a relaxing vacation.

Thanks again to all of you for your help with this.
Julie

Julie,

Do the dates you list include your travel days? In other words, are you flying to Italy on the 29th and back home on the 5th? If so, then I would definitely choose just one of those two destinations if this is supposed to be a relaxing trip. My husband and I spent two nights in Varenna before our Rick Steves tour, and then the two additional nights included in the tour. We spent a day in Milan, a day both relaxing and hiking up to the "castle" in Varenna, and a day in Bellagio. If you were doing a day trip to Lugano too, then there are 4 days right there. While I loved both Lake Como and the Cinque Terre, if I had to choose just one for a relaxing trip, I would go with Lake Como.

I would just clarify that I mention Levanto as more of a budget, not-as-crowded choice, vs. urging you to stay there. If this is a 20th anniversary trip and you aren't trying to save money, look in the five villages. Levanto is a nice town but not as awe-inspiring as the other five. (Although I've never cared as much for Monterosso personally.)

Julie,

You've received lots of great advice so far, and I have a few thoughts to add as well.

To begin with, regarding your question on the Amalfi Coast I would NOT recommend that in this case. Transportation there is more challenging than in the north of Italy. I'd suggest that you stick with the original plan. It's actually not as difficult as it might appear and you can easily do this yourself (with the help of this forum, of course).

I'd also suggest skipping the trip to Switzerland. While it might be feasible, it will take up too much of your very limited time. There is an alternative however. Rather than staying on Lake Como, you could stay in Stresa on Lake Maggiore. While there you could take a day trip on the scenic Cento Valli Railway to Locarno, Switzerland. Return to Stresa in the early evening by Ferry or Hydrofoil. While in Stresa you could also take the short boat ride to visit the beautiful and elegant Borromeo Islands such as Isola Bella - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbKMhAaj40c . If you'd prefer this option, just substitute "Stresa" for "Varenna". It's relatively easy to get to Stressa from MXP. If you need more information on that, post another note here.

It appears that you only have a time frame of seven days to work with. Does that include your two air travel days? Would something like this work.....

• D1 - Sept. 28 - Flight to Europe
• D2 / N1 - Sept. 29 - Arrive MXP - use Malpensa Express to Milano Centrale and then Regionale to Varenna (Lake Como).
• D3 / N2 - Sept. 30 - Varenna, day trips to Bellagio or other towns on the lake, or just relax in Varenna and enjoy Il dolce far niente.
• D4 / N3 - Oct. 1 - Varenna, day trips or visit some of the elegant Villas
• D5 / N1 - Oct. 2 - Train to Milano Centrale (1H:03M) and then train to Monterosso (Cinque Terre) that will be about three hours depending on which train you use. I'd suggest the direct Intercity train.
• D6 / N2 - Oct. 3 - Monterosso, explore five towns using the local trains or the Ferry if it's operating
• D7 / N3 - Oct. 4 - Monterosso morning, train to Milano in afternoon. Book room in hotel close to either Milano Centrale or Milano Cadorna stations.
• D8 - Oct. 5 - train to MXP, flight home

If you haven't travelled anywhere in Italy before, there are a few potentially expensive caveats to be aware of when using trains or other public transit. If you buy tickets locally for Regionale trains, you MUST validate them prior to boarding the train on the day of travel, or risk hefty fines which will be collected on the spot!

I'd suggest staying in Monterosso as it's the largest of the five towns and therefore has the greatest number of accommodations, restaurants and other tourist amenities, as well as the nicest beaches. While it's a bit late to be booking anywhere in the Cinque Terre, you may be successful in getting something at the end of September. However it would be prudent to get on that soon. A few hotels you could look at.....

• https://www.villasteno.com/
• https://www.hotelpasquale.it/
• http://www.laspiaggiahotel.com/
• https://www.portoroca.it/
• https://www.villaadriana.info/

While there be sure to try the local Pesto in the region where it was invented (it's excellent)! One restaurant that's a big favourite with many here is Cantina di Miky, which is just down from the rail station in Monterosso. There are other good restaurants in town also.

Good luck with your planning!

Congratulations on your anniversary! I can think of no better place to celebrate than Lake Como. We stayed for 4 nights in Hotel du Lac in Varenna which was right by the water, and we had a private balcony overlooking the lake. While it may be too late to grab a balcony room, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this wonderful hotel. In Rick's Italy guidebook he recommends others as well. Bellagio and Mennagio also have hotels in tne mid lake region as well.

I also would recommend that you book a group tour of the mid lake with Varenna Boat Taxi. There are different tours available, but we recommend the one that includes a tour of Villa Balbianello. This villa is gorgeous and the boat takes you right to the Villa and picks you up after the tour is over. Check the info for the Varenna Taxi boat online.

Be sure to schedule a romantic supper at some cafe to watch the sunset. There are lovely cafes along the water in Varenna that give you a great view as the sun sets over the mountains and casts a glow on the water.

It would be a good idea to break up the trip from Lake Como to the CT by stopping in Milan. From Milan you can take a direct train (Intercity) from Milano Centrale to Monterosso for a 3 hour trip. We stayed at Affittacamere Da Cesare and would highly recommend this small B and B. The hosts are wonderful, and the home made breakfasts amazing!! The B and B is in the old town section of Monterosso, which we preferred. Be sure to have lunch at La Prosciutteria! The wine selection is great, the music relaxing, and the Italian meat, cheese and fruit tray is superb! In Vernazza, Ristorante Da Billy is supposedly very good, but you need reservations. We did not eat there as it rained every day we were in CT last May! There are also a number of sunset cruises. Angela's leaves from Monterosso. Again, we didn't take one even tough I had researched these. A website you might want to visit is www.cinqueterrainsider.com.

As much as you would love the Amalfi, it is not doable in your time frame. However! I hope you can add that to your bucket list for a future anniversary. You need to see the Positano from the water on a ferry and you definitely need to get up to Ravello to see how the Mediterranean glistens in the sun.

Happy planning!!

Barb, Ken, Andrew and Leslie - you have been a wealth of information, thank you all so much! The added details are awesome. Your suggestions have given me a great start to the planning and made it much easier to know where to begin. I am going to look into the towns, hotels, tours and restaurants you’ve recommended. Fingers crossed that I’m not too late to be doing this. Our plan is definitely to see Como, and I’m not yet ready to give up on CT just because I’ve been saving a postcard from there for at least 10 years. :-)

Ken - thanks, too, for a proposed itinerary!! We plan to arrive in Milan the morning of Sat, 9/28 and will fly back to MD the morning of Sat, 10/5.

Regarding the trains to/from Milan/Como and
to/from Milan/Monterosso....is it best to wait until we are there to buy tickets? Do we do this at Milan airport? It sounds like the train to/from Milan/Como is different than the direct city train to CT which is also different than the train available within CT (if we weren’t hiking). Just want to be sure I don’t miss a step and get charged a fine or something.

If you all don’t mind, I might circle back with a few other questions as I research this more, assuming the forum stays open.

Thanks again for everything....I’m looking forward to this! Julie

Julie,

No, we don't mind the questions. That's what we do here. If my suggested Itinerary is close to what you want, just cut & paste and revise as you wish.

If you're asking about buying train tickets for the day you arrive from the U.S., most of us don't recommend doing that if you'll be using the express trains. The tickets for those trains have compulsory seat reservations which are specific to train, date and departure time. If you miss the train because your flight was late arriving or whatever, the tickets are worthless and you'll have to buy more at full price (Base fare) anyway.

If you're committed to starting your trip at Lago di Como (and I'm assuming you'll be staying in Varenna), there's absolutely no point in buying tickets in advance since both trains you'll be using will be Regionale, and there are no price discounts for those. You should be able to buy your tickets for both trains at the airport. Here's my usual "boilerplate" on arriving at MXP and going to Milano Centrale.....

TRAVEL FROM MILAN / MXP TO MILANO CENTRALE
The quickest and easiest way to get from MXP Terminal 1 into Milan is to use the Malpensa Express (train). There are several departures each hour and the trip takes 52 minutes. You can buy tickets at the airport station either from a Kiosk or staffed ticket office, and the cost is currently €13 PP. Note that some departures have a change at Milano Nord Cadorna, so try to choose a train that goes directly to Centrale, unless Cadorna is your desired destination. There are a few important points to note. First, the M.E. has two routes, one to Milano Centrale and one to Milano N. Cadorna, so be sure to board the correct train! Next, it's necessary to validate (time & date stamp) your tickets prior to boarding the train, or you'll risk hefty fines which will be collected on the spot! You'll arrive at Milano Centrale on Track (Binario) 1 or 2, and will then have to walk into the main hall to either connect with another train or exit the station.
If you're arriving on a budget flight at Malpensa Terminal 2, you can use either the Malpensa Shuttle (Bus) or the Malpensa Express (train). Travel time for the bus is about an hour (depending on traffic), and the Bus also terminates at Milano Centrale. Travel time for the train is a bit longer than from Terminal 1. You can buy bus tickets from the driver or at ticket machines inside the terminal. The Malpensa Shuttle also serves MXP Terminal 1, so if you'd prefer to travel by Bus that's also an option.

You'll receive two tickets, one for the Malpensa Express and one for the trip to Varenna. You'll need to validate both prior to boarding the train. The trip to Varenna is 1H:03M. Try to sit on the left when facing forward for the best views. The train will go through a tunnel just prior to arrival at Varenna, and be sure to disembark promptly as it doesn't stop for long.

We visited Lake Como and Cinque Terre last year as part of a longer trip

In CT we stayed in Monterosso at a wonderful B&B called il Giardino Incantato. Hosts were very nice, room was a good size, convenient location - just down a side street from all the "action", but still very quiet. They have a lovely garden where we went in the afternoons to relax with a glass of wine. Owner makes her own limoncello! Yummy.

In the Lake Como area we stayed in Varenna at Albergo Milano. Gets glowing reviews, but we didn't care for it at all. Would not stay here again, but to both places. Be prepared for lots and lots of hill walking 😊

Instead of taking the train to Mid Lake Como you might consider a private driver. It isn't too much more then the train and will fit your schedule. I believe it was 300 Euro return from MXP to Bellagio. I can get the name of the company we used - highly recommended on TA and I would give them 5 stars for sure.

Just a note that you need to be careful when speaking of, and making travel arrangements to Lake Como. There is a town called Como which may or may not be where you want to go, and then there are the popular destinations like Varenna-Esino, Bellagio, etc., that are on the Lake. The way you get there is different and you dont want to buy a ticket to "Como" when you mean Varenna-Esino.

My addition is to think carefully about how you wish to spend your days. A week is good for two locations, but then do you also need to deduct a day to be near the airport before departure? Can you arrive early enough to get to the coast first, and then find a lake location that you could get to the airport from for departure?
I think there are more places to spread out in the lakes, but the Cinque Terre villages can get pretty crowded. I think of it primarily as a hiking destination, and if I were not interested in hiking, I would pick a different riviera location. Look at options in both areas if you get rain.
congrats!

Hi All – thanks for the continued posts and advice. It’s made the planning so much better! There have been so many great suggestions that I wish we were staying longer than 7 nights/6 days. CT has been on my bucket list for so long that I’m not able to pass on the chance to see it on this visit, but I really appreciate all the advice about seeing other great places near it or even staying outside it. I hope to go back to get more time to explore the ideas you’ve all provided. I can’t thank you enough!

I’m circling back with a few questions….seeking more opinions/tips and some questions about trains, and apologies in advance for the long note!

LENGTH OF STAY
I have decided to make a “go” of it and do two destinations: Lake Como (staying in Menaggio) and Cinque Terre (staying in Monterosso). We arrive in Milan at 10 AM on Sat (9/28). My best guess is that it will take us until mid-afternoon to get to the hotel. We’d have part of a day (Sat) to explore plus Sun – Tues. My plan is to leave Lake Como on Wed AM (10/2) and I’m estimating we’d arrive in Monterosso by mid-afternoon. We’d have part of Wed afternoon, Thurs and part of Fri before leaving via train to return to Milan/MXP. I’m thinking of staying at the Sheraton MXP just to allow us until mid-afternoon to leave CT and get us as close to the airport for an early flight on Sat morning.

All in, if my estimates on time are correct, it gives us 3 ½ days in the Lake Como area and 2 days in CT (but it’s really 1 full day and 2 half days). Two questions:
- Would it be better to switch the amount of time spent in each and do 2 ½ days in the Lake Como area (1/2 day Sat plus Sun/Mon) and 3 days in CT (1/2 day Tues plus Wed/Thurs and Fri morning). I really want to see both and I’m struggling with how to allocate my time. I’m interested in seeing Varenna, including a boat tour and maybe visiting Villa Balbianello, and possibly a day trip to Bellagio. At the same time, I don’t want to short-change the visit to CT and want to be sure there’s a good amount of time to explore some of the towns (don’t necessarily have to dive deep into all 5 but also don’t want to be short on time and just do walk-by’s).
- Based on the above (and comments below re: train/ferry), should I look at staying in Varenna to keep things simple? After realizing our hotel in Menaggio (Hotel Garni Corona) is across the lake, I’m seriously considering looking again in Varenna. Barb recommended Hotel du lac but they’re booked and I’m concerned about Sue’s comment on Milano Albergo even though it gets rave reviews. Anyone else try this or Hotel Olivedo?

TRAINS
Below are the trains I believe we need to take (please let me know if these aren’t right!) but I need a little help figuring out some details. At the moment, we are planning to stay at Hotel Garni Corona in Menaggio and I just realized that this has added some time to our travel from MXP. According to the hotel’s website, our options are 1) the “FS” train (not sure what this is) from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino and then a ferry or a bus to Menaggio. Or 2) take the Malpensa Express to Saronno and switch to get a train to Como, then it’s a ferry or a bus. In both cases, the ferry or bus are about an hour. Is it as complicated as it sounds?

(MXP to Varenna/Menaggio is TBD, until I hear your thoughts on the above.)
- After our visit to the Lake Como area:
* Depart Varenna: take Regionale train to Milano Centrale (do I wait to buy this on our departure date?)
* At MC, switch to a different Regionale train (direct Intercity train) to go to Monterosso. (do I wait to buy this at MC on the day we actually travel or can I buy in Varenna?)
* Returning to MC: take Regionale train from Monterosso to MC
* Switch to Malpensa Express to get to MXP

Thanks again for your help and for your patience with all the questions! Julie

Julie,

A few further thoughts in response to your latest plans....

I'd suggest trying for about equal times on Lake Como and the Cinque Terre. I'd have to give some further thought on how to accomplish that.

It would be simpler to stay in Varenna as it would minimize transportation times. Although the Varenna - Menaggio trip is only 20 minutes or so, there's also waiting time, boarding times, etc. I've stayed in Hotel Olivedo and based on my experiences I would absolutely recommend it. It's an older hotel but clean and comfortable and that's good enough for me. Some people have found the owner a bit brusque, but I get along fine with her. It's located right at the Ferry dock, so very convenient. You could also look at https://www.royalvictoria.com/1/1/EN/Home_page.htm which is in the main part of town by the Church, and very comfortable. I wouldn't have any problems staying at Albergo Milano, although it's a bit high for my budget.

TRAINS..... to begin with, it would be a good idea to buy the train tickets for your outgoing journey from Varenna to the Cinque Terre either when you go through Milan on the way to Varenna OR when you arrive in Varenna at the helpful Tivano Tours office, which I believe is in the station now. Don't forget these are Regionale trains so you MUST validate your tickets prior to boarding the train on the day of travel or risk hefty fines.

"FS train" refers to Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane S.p.A. which is the main operator of rail services in Italy. There's also Italo Treno (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) and many other smaller rail networks. As I recall, TreNord operates the Malpensa Express and the trains on the Varenna line (among others).

Regarding your train questions.....

• MXP to Milano Centrale and then to Varenna will both be Regionale trains. Don't forget to validate!
• Varenna to Milano Centrale - as mentioned above, I would buy the tickets for your outgoing trip when you arrive in Varenna.
• From Milano Centrale to Monterosso, I'd recommend using one of the direct Intercity trains as there are no changes. I'd suggest the departure at 12:10, arriving at 15:05 (time 2H:55M). As mentioned above, buy the ticket when you arrive or sometime during your stay in Varenna. Note that tickets for these do not have to be validated, as the tickets come with compulsory seat reservations which are specific to train, date and departure time, and therefore can only be used on the ONE train listed on the ticket. If you board any other train by mistake, you'll be subject to hefty fines.
• From Monterosso back to Milan, again use the direct Intercity train. Buying tickets in Monterosso is very easy as they have a small full service ticket office and the agents speak some English.
• one other comment about rail tickets in Italy. It's possible to buy tickets online using resellers such as Trainline.com, Trenit, Loco2 or others, or from the rail network websites. Some ticket sellers have smartphone Apps (I use Trainline, even though they charge a small fee for ticket purchases now).

If you have an early flight on Saturday morning, staying at the Malpensa Sheraton would be a really good idea. It's very pricey but you can walk directly into the terminals. The rooms are large and posh, but don't order room service unless you have a large budget ;-)

Hope this answers your questions.

Julie, If you can book a hotel in Varenna I'd do it. We took the ferry to Mennagio one morning and found it to be rather lacking in comparison to Varenna and it's lovely promenade by the water with all the cafes. I'm confused about needing to take a ferry or a BUS to Mennagio. A bus would have to go alllllll the way around the Como leg of the lake to reach Mennagio. Not an option!! Once you got off the train at Varennna-Esino stop, you don't need a ferry ride across the lake if you stay in Varenna. You might, however, want to grab a taxi from the train station to a hotel. Varenna is hilly!

About the trains, I'm obsessive about planning ahead whenever possible, so I bought the Intercity train tickets online at www.trainline.eu. I can understand the process much better on this site. You will receive a voucher you can print out and show to the conductor as he makes his rounds. You will have a specific carriage number and seat assignments so there is no need to validate your ticket before you board. I purchased both Intercity trains going to Monterosso and back to Milano Centrale from Monterosso.

When I was planning our trip to Varenna, I read that there is no ticket window in the Varenna-Esino train station. You needed to purchade tickets at a travel agency. I wasnt comfortable with that, so I bought tickets for both ways at Milano Centrale. They are good for up to 4 days ( at least they were last May). There is no seat assignment or time of travel associated with these Regional tickets, so you will need to validate them before boarding each way. It worked for us. BTW, the ticket offices in Milano Centrale are on the ground floor. You can check out a map of the station at www.milanocentrale.it It seems to me you need to pay for the restrooms also, so have some Euro coins handy. Oh, and be prepared for the beggars. We were approached many times as we waited for a train.

I would return to Lake Como in a heartbeat. You will not be able to adequately describe it to the folks back home. Make some anniversary memories! My husband and I celebrate our 50 th this month, and we have wonderful travel memories.

Given your 10 AM arrival into Milan, I would go to CT 1st and do Lake Como at the end.

This would mean you could leave Lake Como late afternoon to get to your Milan lodging closer to bed time and be in position for your early departure the next AM.

Hi Barb – thanks so much for your message about the recent visit to Varenna; it sounds like you had a great time! I also appreciate your tips on navigating the trains. It was very helpful and like you, this is one part of the trip that worries me so I also want to understand the details! I am working through my logistics as you’ll see below…feel free to chime in!

Hi Ken – I appreciate your continued patience with my questions as I’m back with a few more. 😊 I found what I suspect is a post of yours from years ago on the train logistics which was detailed and very helpful. The level of detail gives me some peace of mind as I figure out what I need to do when in the crowded train station and trying to be sure I’m buying the right tickets, remembering to validate and getting on the right train. I’ve outlined a plan but still have questions. Do you mind reviewing to be sure it covers everything?

1. Collect luggage at MXP, get through customs and find the airport rail station in Terminal 1 (I see online it’s in the basement; hoping it’s easy to find).
   — I see the kiosks take cash or credit card. I’m assuming a counter agent does the same.
   Purchase round-trip ticket for Malpensa Express (MXP to MC to MXP), traveling on consecutive Saturdays.
   
   — Validate ticket prior to each “leg” of the ticket.

2. I’m a little confused about when/where to buy the tickets from Milano Centrale (MC) to Varenna-Esino and then from Varenna-Esino to MC. I understand buying the ticket for Malpensa Express in Terminal 1 at MXP. I’m unclear if I’m buying the tickets from MC to Varenna-Esino at the airport or once I arrive at MC.
   — Ideally, I’d like to purchase a round-trip ticket MC to Varenna-Esino to MC but I’m traveling first on a Saturday and returning to MC on Wed so I’m not sure if that’s too much time between train trips to do a round-trip fare. Also, if it’s possible to purchase a round-trip ticket, is it better to do this at a ticket counter vs a kiosk to avoid me making a mistake when I buy tickets?
   
   — As a back-up, if I’m unable to purchase the Varenna-Esino to MC ticket on Saturday, I understand I can buy that Regionale train ticket in Varenna-Esino at the station or Tivano Tours..
   — Validate each ticket before boarding. Validation machines/kiosks are located throughout the station, right?

3. Barb suggested purchasing the InterCity train tickets online in advance (www.trainline.eu) just to save time on figuring things out, picking a seat, and that’s an appealing idea. The only concern I have is that I’ll be coming from Varenna-Esino to MC and if that train is late, I could miss the InterCity train and have no option except to buy a ticket for the next train.
   
   — Are these trains reliably on time? And do you know if the InterCity train leaves on tracks in the same general area as Regionale trains?
   — Another reason I’m hesitant to buy in advance, at least for the Monterosso to MC InterCity ticket, is that I’m not sure what time we’ll leave CT on our last day. We have nothing to do but get to our hotel at MXP so I’d rather stay as long as I can, leaving mid/late afternoon sometime and get to MXP early evening. I can take the Malpensa Express until late that night so I should be fine.

4. On the return from Monterosso to Milano Centrale, purchase the InterCity train ticket at the Monterosso train station (if not purchased in advance online). Is it best to do that upon arrival in Monterosso, or just as easy to do when I’m leaving?

5. Once at Milano Centrale, purchase the ticket for the Malpensa Express to MXP (if I was unable to get a round-trip ticket the prior Saturday). Can do this at a kiosk.

Thanks again for your continued help! Julie

Julie,

As I recall, you have to buy the Varenna-Esino train tickets in Milano Centrale. When we were there in September two years ago, you had to go downstairs to buy the tickets for the regionale trains. As you are arriving on a Saturday, do check the departure boards by the tracks in MC to make sure your train actually stops in Varenna. When returning from a day trip to Milan on a Saturday, we managed to get on the one train that didn't stop in Varenna on Saturday afternoon--our own fault for just hopping on the train that was waiting without actually checking the stops. It all turned out okay in the end (helped by passengers and the conductor we were able to transfer in Lecco), but it made things a bit tense for awhile.

There are validation machines by each set of tracks in Milano Centrale, and the station in Varenna is tiny, so there is just one machine on the single platform there.

You should probably be making your hotel reservations very soon. Though the end of September is not the "high" season, there were still plenty of people in both Varenna and Monterosso al Mare when we were there in September/October. We stayed at Albergo Milano our first two nights before our Best of Italy tour and loved it--much more so than Hotel Cipressi where our tour started (though that hotel was fine, just not as nice as Albergo Milano, and a little more confusing to navigate).

I hope you have a wonderful time on your trip. I'd go back to both Varenna and Monterosso al Mare in a heartbeat!