'Italian Ways,' by Tim Parks Enjoyed it. It centers on the rail system.
A fabulous book. Neat insights into life in Verona, Milan and the south of Italy. Interesting insights into Italian points of view, and one man's view of Italian tradition and how it changes all around the country. I couldn't put it down. It has prepared me for my next trip and explained some of the things I have seen in previous trips. For anybody considering the train ferry to Sicily, reading the last several chapters in this book will give plenty of food for thought.
Also "Beautiful Ruins" by Jess Walter and always "The Agony and the Ecstacy" by Irving Stone before seeing the Sistine Chapel
If you enjoyed that, you should read two of his earlier books: 'Italian Neighbors,' and 'Italian Education.' They're very good. He wrote one more, on Italian soccer, but you have to be a real soccer fan to appreciate it.