Just flew ORD-JFK-MXP a couple of nights ago on Delta.
When we checked our bags the agent asked if we had a negative Covid test. We told Italy no longer requires one. She then proceeded to tell us that they do until July 30. We told her she was mistaken and to read through the docs she had on her screen. She eventually got to the part that says all you need is to be fully vaccinated. After that we were good to go once she checked our vaxx cards.
When we boarded our flight to Milan everyone had to have their temperature taken before boarding. This also required a paper boarding pass for them to stamp. If you had a mobile boarding pass you had to go to the desk and get a paper pass. Save yourself the hassle and just get a paper boarding pass.
Masks of course required on the flight except when eating or drinking. Seemed like everyone complied and I never heard the flight attendants telling anyone to put one on. Flight was 85-90% full.
Upon arrival in Milan we breezed through passport control and immigration. No one ever asked for our ePLF barcode or documentation. Getting through passport control was never easier or quicker.
Lines at the rental car counters were virtually non-existent.
We are in the Dolomites in Ortisei and everything is open. Masks are pretty much required in shops but it seems like the shop workers wait to see if you put yours on before they put theirs on. Wait staff at restaurants are wearing them but outdoors many seem to have them pulled down under their nose.
Italy is as great as ever and the hiking in the Val Gardena is still amazing.