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2nd trip to Italy | Sorrento/Cetara (Amalfi Coast) | update, trip complete!

Well, that didn't take long. After doing a big trip to Italy last April (Rome, Florence, Venice, Cinque Terre, various Tuscan hill towns) we will be doing a bit of a slower pace trip to the Amalfi Coast in Late May into June for 10 days.

Fly into Naples
5 nights in Sorrento http://www.aminta.com/
5 nights in Cetara http://www.hotelcetus.com/hotelcetus/

Debating renting a car, have read a lot of the old closed topics here on that. I loved driving in Italy last time, and I've done mountain roads here in Vermont, as well as RT1 on the Pacific which is the greatest drive ever. However, we made not need one but it could be useful especially the second 5 nights. We would like to visit some of the coastal towns like Postiano/Amalfi perhaps Salerno.

*Edit: not going to rent car for Sorrento, seems unnecessary. I'll need to figure a way between Sorrento and hotel in Cetara. As well as back and forth on the coastal towns via bus or similar.

We expect to visit Pompei (the ruins specifically), and MT V as well as perhaps a day trip to Capri. Otherwise, mostly eating, relaxing, and hopefully some floating in the sea. We love to walk, and wander without agenda.

Any recommendations? Advice. Cheers, and thanks!

Posted by
5745 posts

General advice: don't discount Naples because of what you have heard--it is amazing. At least visit the archaeological museum.
The hiking is marvelous, and there are a couple of guides to the hikes on the coast and islands (see Amazon or library).
Late May is a lovely time to be there--the season is underway but not oppressive, and the weather should be great.
You will not need a car in Sorrento unless you plan on going up into the hills, probably not worth the cost since you have ample opportunity to take the commuter train and ferries. I think beach access is cumbersome from Sorrento but I have not been there. Others will advise on that. The sea will likely still be pretty chilly though.
For Cetara, it is a toss-up on the car. The Amalfi coast bus passes through, and because the town is off the radar so to speak, you can typically grab a seat if it is not full coming from Salerno. The restaurants are great in Cetara, which is known for its fishing. We loved staying there so we could walk to dinner, but it does take a bit of time to get to the other towns. We went to Amalfi to access some hikes. One day we hopped off the bus at Minori or Maiori and walked to Ravello, then down to Atrani and last got the return bus in Amalfi. The bus schedule on Sunday was an issue so plan well. You can get on the train south to Paestum in Salerno and possibly in Vietri, highly recommend it!

Posted by
285 posts

Thanks for that information valadelphia! I'll be sure to check out those other locations to see if they would be a good fit for us, glad to hear about the food in Cetara! Excited that it's a more relaxed spot, a bit less touristy as well. I for sure want to hit the other spots along the coast.

Sounds like a car for the first bit doesn't make much sense, that should save me some money and that isn't a bad thing!

Posted by
11613 posts

Take a look at Paestum, it's easily accessible from Salerno. Greek temples, very good small museum, a beach, mozzarella farms.

Posted by
2383 posts

Really love Sorrento-Amalfi-Capri Car Tours and Walks by Julian Tippett - even if you just read it as fiction!

Posted by
285 posts

Great thank you, I'll take a look at that book. Now two folks have recommended Paestum!

Posted by
285 posts

Little bump here, decided not to rent based on what I'm reading. I'll have car service from Naples airport to hotel in Sorrento, then somehow figure out how to get from Sorrento to Cetara. Then hop buses and such on the coast? I'd love to have a car to get back to the airport but maybe going to Salerno then by train to Naples?

Thanks for continued help.

Posted by
5745 posts

Little bump here, decided not to rent based on what I'm reading. I'll have car service from Naples airport to hotel in Sorrento, then somehow figure out how to get from Sorrento to Cetara. Then hop buses and such on the coast? I'd love to have a car to get back to the airport but maybe going to Salerno then by train to Naples?
Thanks for continued help.

Yes, you can use bus from Cetara, and perhaps make use of the ferry by taking the bus to Salerno and hopping on there (or vice versa). You will just need to see where the ferry ports are.
What time do you need to be at Naples airport? There are some express buses that go direct to the airport from Salerno.

Posted by
285 posts

Thanks for the reply valadelphia we fly back from Naples (to Rome as luck would have it) then back to NYC beginning at 11:25 local time out of Naples.

I was initially excited about a car, but it just doesn't seem needed. In Sorrento we can train to Pompei, Naples, and ferry to Capri.

Our hotel does offer parking if we opt to rent one for the Amalfi coast portion of our trip but based on everything I'm reading that seems like a poor choice.

Posted by
5745 posts

Thanks for the reply valadelphia we fly back from Naples (to Rome as luck would have it) then back to NYC beginning at 11:25 local time out of Naples.

That is not terribly early, so you could take a bus to Salerno (or Vietri--it has a train station, just perhaps more limited in offerings) and then train to Naples, then cab to the airport. But I would hate to do all that on my last morning--I think I would splash out on the transfer to the airport unless the direct SITA airport bus from Salerno works in your schedule.
You should be fine without a car in Cetara--just watch on Sundays, when the schedule is limited.

Posted by
285 posts

Still taking any day trip advice, thanks for all the help thus far.

Here is what I am on now, order is not set in stone, just loose. (hotels are both booked, not changing those)

Tuesday May 30th - Arrive Naples (10:40 local time) transfer to Sorrento arranged by hotel door to door from Airport (100€)
**relax, eat, etc... no major plans
Wednesday 31st - Naples by ferry? (suggestions here beyond pizza)
Thursday June 1st - Capri by ferry? (blue grotto/chair lift/touristing)
Friday 2nd - Pompei & Vesuvias
Saturday 3rd - Sorrento area relax/explore
-----(hotel switch)
Sunday 4th - check in to hotel in Cetera (likely going to need a private transfer here?) SITA bus could take a couple hours but that might be an option...relax cetera
Monday 5th - explore coast Postiano?
Tuesday 6th - explore coast Amalfi?
Wednesday 7th - Salerno and/or Paestum?
Thursday 8th - relax Cetera
Friday 9th - check out, private transfer arranged from Cetera hotel to Naples airport. (110€) Fly home, be sad to go back to normal life.

I could be over doing it on the coast, but nothing will be booked so largely play by ear I suppose. Glad to not be renting a car although it would have some benefits.

Any and all suggestions welcome, our hotel in Cetera has a nice private beach. I expect we will use that often to just relax.

Posted by
490 posts

Just wondering why you would leave Naples by expensive car transport and then one day later go right back? I have been to the area many many times over the years. I advise you to stay in Naples the first night, you are pretty much jet lagged anyway, so relax at hotel and eat a nice dinner/lunch, if feeling energetic go to the archeological musuem. I think it makes sense to head to the the farthest point and work your way back to Naples for your flight. 2nd day take Direct train from Naples to Cetara. Visit Amalfi/Positano from Cetara. That time of year you can head to Sorrento by ferry. See Sorrento ( stay) and or Capri on the way back, stay in Naples on your last night ( see archeological sites from Sorrento or Naples) I recommend traveling light ( one carry on suitcase and one small daypack) Driving in the area in high season is not advised. Good public transport between the towns is available. Maybe choose 3 places and settle in for 2- 3 nights or so. Honestly, Sorrento is worth a visit but I don't understand why people stay there and do these long exhausting day trips to A/C when they could just save all the traveling back and forth for hours and spend a bit more on a hotel in the prime areas for 2 nights. Sorrento is fine for Capri or archeological visits but to do the A/C on a day trip makes no sense to me! :) Pack cheap/flat water shoes and leave them behind to lighten your load, you cannot get into or out of the rocky waters without them and they are hard to find in U.S. sizes in small towns.

Posted by
285 posts

Sorry my post wasn't clear, I have a hotel for 5 nights in Sorrento (Naples region day trips from there) and a hotel for 5 nights in Cetera (day trips on Amalfi Coast from there)

Good call on the water shoes!

As far as the first night is concerned, my preference is not to bounce around to hotels like I've done in the past. Just wanted to set a couple roots down and chose Sorrento as a spot based on recs on this forum, and Cetera as a base due to the hotel we got and quiet location.

I may not go to Naples the next day, was just one day trip we plan on while in Sorrento. Car service is just for ease, the cost doesn't concern me too much. After a long flight, I just want to get settled in somewhere and go from there.

As for luggage, we each just have a backpack that suits our needs so that is easy! Thanks!

Posted by
4105 posts

Rather than the car transfer from NAP, why not take the Curreri Viaggi bus. Takes about the same amount of time, cost is 10 E. Then take a taxi to your lodging.

Ferry and bus timetables on the AC.

http://www.positano.com

Travelmar.it offers ferry service from Cetera. It's not posted yet,
So keep checking.

Naples is a UNESCO world heritage site. There are an unlimited amount of things to see. Have spent over sixty days in Naples and Amalfi coast and still not seen everything. Check...

The Campania Arte card for the list of places to visit.

IMHO the Blue Grotto is the biggest tourists trap! Not worth the time invested to visit.
Spend your day on Capri just absorbing the island, it is beautiful.

For your train back to Naples, go to Salerno. It's a 30 minute bus ride from Cetera. Then taxi to airport.

Posted by
285 posts

Thank you @gerri I did not know there was any ferry from Cetera so that will be great to see what options we have there for moving around.

I'll look at the bus/tax option as well, I chose not to stay "in" Naples due to mixed reviews, I figured we stay close and I can go more than one day if we love it! As for the Blue Grotto, that is what I'm reading also. Dang, it looks so beautiful but sounds like it might not be worth the hassle. Appreciate the advice so much! We are very excited to see more of Italy, and what will I assume (hope) becomes an annual tradition until I can figure out how to move to Europe in general!

Posted by
285 posts

We're back! What an amazing time! Already thinking about the next trip, and possible locations.

Sorrento was fantastic, great mix of local and touristing options. English was mostly available, found some restaurants where it wasn't as well. Glad we used this place to start. Hotel was magic, what views! Happy we paid for car service direct to hotel, well worth the money.!

  • From Sorrento we visited several places but also spent plenty of time here, if you come. Don't miss this. https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187782-d4346545-r173312388-Bagni_della_Regina_Giovanna-Sorrento_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html
  • went to Capri, absolutely loved it. So gorgeous, Anacapri even more so. Would have liked to have stayed here over night for sure!
  • Pompei, took the Circumvesuvia and explored it. Had a great time, powerful place. Time didn't allow us to hike the mountain like we planned, but no big deal. Next time!
  • Naples, gritty AF as the kids say. Not really my bag, it's like NYC times a million and I love NYC. Watch peeps try and target us on the Circumvesuvia train, but no dice for them. It was stressful, I would not ride that train to Naples again. We took the ferry back. Had a good time at the museum, and had amazing pizza. Walked around a bit, overall enjoyed it but glad I only went for a few hours.

Took the SITA bus to Positano on our way to the next hotel, gorgeous town. Even better drive. What a view! Not for the faint of heart, I'd love to drive it but only without a passenger. Poked around this town a bit, super touristy beyond words. Upscale, nose turned up kinda place. 100 euro linens? F THAT. We moved on by bus to Amalfi, then switched again by bus on route to our next hotel in Cetera (the place of dreams!).

Cetera is magic, so quiet, so chill, no tourists, very little English. It was a dream for 5 nights for sure. Highly recommend this overlooked spot. We tripped to Amalfi, and Salerno, rented a car for a few hours to go to Cervinara in the mountains where my GF family is from. Relaxed, and ate like seafood kings and queens. Anchovies are huge here, tried every variation!

Travel mar ferrys are amazing by they way, way better than the bus and pretty cheap! Took them everywhere.

Anyway, thanks for all the help!

Posted by
11613 posts

So glad you had a great time! Thanks for posting.

Posted by
490 posts

I suggest touring Naples on the way out or at least a few days after arrival/ jet lag. Pair it with Archeological museum and Herculaneum ( my strong suggestion for better preserved and more compact site) or Pompeii.

I visit Campania every year. I would take the advice of not seeing Blue Grotto on a day trip, it is a waste of time when the real beauty of Capri is seen from up high! Don't fall into keeping up with the Jonses and ticking off tourist sights on your trip! ;) The 2 hours that you spend getting into the grotto could be better spent.

Posted by
17058 posts

Delighted that you such a great trip, Dan!
Soooo, when's the next one? :O)