With help from a lot of you I slimmed down some overambitious plans for a 22-day trip (not including flights) as follows: Venice 6 nights (including jet lag); Florence 3 nights (been there before); Assisi 2 nights; Orvieto 2 nights (incl stop in Civita on the way to Rome); Rome 8 nights. I was quite pleased with myself (what do you think?)
Here's the thing: Then I saw where Ravenna is and it calls to me (serious art/church junkie, I would kill to see Ravenna mosaics). Do I do what looks like a VERY long day trip out of Venice or Florence (5-6 hr train time, 7 hr in Ravenna)? OR do I do 2-1/2 -3 hr train V to Ravenna, spend the night, and 2-1/2 -3 train next day to Florence (don't know which city the night in Ravenna is stolen from)? (I know, 1 night stands are bad).
OR do I save it for another trip? Trouble with that is it seems Ravenna is long train trips from anywhere except Venice or Florence (not interested in Bologna). Any ideas? Thanks once again.
I can't stay away from Ravenna, so I would say spend a night there. You will want to take your time with the mosaics, and definitely go to Classe (5 minute local bus ride) for the church of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.
Ravenna is a lovely, laid-back little city, you may want two nights. For hotel, I like Hotel Centrale Byron, very centrally located and a good breakfast.
Consider renting a car for the day. Ravenna is about a two hour drive from Venice. You would also have the freedom to make other stops along the way if you want. The mosaics are really beautiful.
Given that you're a self-confessed art/church junkie, I would suggest shaving one or two nights off either Venice or Rome (or one off each) and do two nights in Ravenna, between Venice and Florence on your itinerary. Don't do it as a day trip. (We really hate renting a car in Italy, so we rely on trains and buses.)
Do be sure to pay attention to the days of the week you'll be in each place if there are particular museums you really want to see. Most museums are closed on Mondays, but not all. With churches, be sure to find out their hours ahead of time. A lot of them are closed between around 11 am and 4 pm.
If you are a mosaic junkie spend at least one night in Ravenna, depending upon arrival and departure times. Ravenna is tough to have substitutes. It is almost THE place to explore well. There is a lot there.
We would never have considered Ravenna before reading about it in R.S. but it is one of our fondest memories of Italy, and we have been to many places there. We stayed at a place called Galla Placidia in 2010 and loved every minute of our visit there. The mosaics are nothing short of spectacular. I might save it for another trip, but don't miss it for sure!
They did cancel our train trip to Venice from Ravenna and we had to go the long way around (the only time in a total of 6 months we rode trains, in the 3 trips we took there, that we had to catch one we hadn't planned on. So if you are short of time look for the train that goes through Ferrara it's shorter but this is the one that went on strike in 2010.
We would pick three nights in Ravenna and 4 or 5 nights in Rome. But we have been to Rome and it's not our favorite place to stay.
Happy traveling.
And never assume you wont be back. Our first trip to Italy was in 2007, our first to Europe, in fact, and we are planning our fourth this April and have been to Spain and Portugal. Spending our children' s inheritance one trip at a time.
Since you'll be in Venice for several nights, don't miss the mosaics at the church of Santa Assunta in Torcello. I would take a night from Venice for Ravenna. Rome can give you an easy daytrip to Orvieto, and there are several off-the-tourist track churches with great mosaics in Rome (Santa Prassede, San Clemente and several others).
I want to second what Zoe said about Roman churches (Santa Prassede in particular), but would not recommend doing Orvieto as a day trip. We spent two nights there in 2011 and wished we had stayed three. Here are some photos I took of Orvieto, in case you're interested: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjvcWE1Q
No photos are allowed inside the amazing chapel with the Signorelli frescoes, unfortunately.
I agree with Michael about Orvieto (can't stay away from there, either) but a daytrip is better than no trip. If you have a night or two, definitely stay in Orvieto, but not at the expense of a night or two in Ravenna.
I went to Ravenna by train between Venice and Florence. Yes, it takes a painfully long time, but it is so worth it. I took a late afternoon train from Venice (giving me the better part of a day to sightsee), stayed at the Palazzo Galletti Abbiosi for 2 nights (short, easy walk from the station), then left around 5 p.m. on the 3rd day, so I had almost 2 full days there. If you want to soak up the mosaics - and they are breath-taking, don't cheat yourself. I would take a night (or even 2) from Rome, and since you've been before, maybe shave some time from Florence?
The National Museum of Rome is a group of museums, one of which is the Palazzo Massimo with a wonderful garden fresco from the ancient Villa of Livia and amazing mosaics from that period. You may also be tempted to take a day trip to Naples to the National Archaeological Museum, that houses a large, large collection of the art work recovered from Pompeii and the other towns destroyed by Vesuvius.
Oh dear, too much to see, too many choices.
Thank you all. I'm taking a day from Venice (leaves me with 5) and getting to Ravenna as early as I can, spending one night, and leaving later the next day. Can't wait to see them.
This forum is the best thing I've found on the internet in a long time.
Theresa
I am not the OP, but want to thank everyone who posted here. Your responses and information have inspired us to add 3 nights in Ravenna! Perhaps a day trip to Ferrara as well in that time period.
It's me again. We are recently returned from Ravenna. Beautiful city, extraordinary mosaics and historic buildings. Really enjoyed our time in this pretty, easy going town. Thanks for the inspiration. BTW, we did take a day trip by train to Ferrara...very nice, convenient train schedule, excellent walking tour maps and suggestions from the TI in the castle.