We are hoping to do a very focused trip and do it with 7 nites ideally. We've already been to Seina, Montlcino, Cinque Terra and the southern Tuscany Brunello area. Never been to Florence and chianti. We are wine & food geeks and I know a lot about producers in Chianti like; Felsina, Fontodi, Montevertine and others so don't need producer advice. Thinking of 2-3 nights on the front or back end in Florence. 4 -5 nites in a village with a daily market so my wife can cook a couple nites. Loved Siena except for the crowds during the day. Would like a smaller village with more local feel but also some good restaurants. We're not shoppers. W e use the little packs and travel light. More interested in a village with great architecture and character but we rarely tour the churches. Want a great night time vibe and maybe a 2 bedroom place we can rent with a great view day and night. So my interenary might be 2 nites florencce 5 nites one village base. or 3 nites Florence /4 nites at smaller village base. Thought about Radda but it may be too small. Also thought of a smaller version of Siena like Lucca or Sangimani? Please share your thoughts. Are there other great coastal towns besides the now very busy Cinque Terra?
Posted by
Boston, MA, USA
262 posts
We just got back from Florence and I can't help you with a hotel with a vibe because we stayed at the Hotel Villa Medici which is about 1/2 a mile from all the action of Florence. I can suggest a couple Of great towns In Chianti though, both Greve and Castellina are awesome little villages with great downtown areas. Hope that helps some
Posted by
Rural Georgia
2121 posts
I can suggest a couple Of great towns In Chianti though, both Greve and Castellina are awesome little villages with great downtown areas.
I second Joe's recommendation. I'm including links to two possibilities.
The first is to La Cantina, owned by Alessandro and his mother Lorena. We ate there twice and wished we had time to have taken her cooking class. Alessandro and the entire staff at La Cantina couldn't have been nicer or more welcoming. We were there in December and they were doing a thriving business with locals, all of whom they evidently knew. Alessandro went out of his way to make us feel at home, even teaching us a little Italian! Here's a link: La Cantina.
I don't know anything about Le Cetinelle, but it's a B&B close to Greve that offers cooking lessons.
If you want to rent an apartment with a kitchen, you may be able to fine one in either Greve or Castellina. There's a terrific meat market in Greve, as well as a COOP grocery store for staple items.
We dream of returning to Greve during grape harvest. There's a harvest festival. We'd love to return to Castello di Verrazzano and hopefully participate in the harvest as well as take cooking lessons from Mama Lorena at La Cantina.
Posted by
824 posts
Craig,
While not in Chianti, Lucca may just be your place. We didn't see many other tourists the day we went in October (I think they were all in Pisa) and the place has tons of character.
A couple other respondents mentioned Greve. While I agree that Greve has a lot of character, it may be a little small given your write-up. Google-map it and take a look...
Another option is to just get an apartment in Florence and then day trip to places (on your own or part of a tour) from there. We took a Chianti region wine tour that was the high point of our Italy trip last year. Plus, the central market (Mercato Centrale) has all the local fresh food you could ever ask for AND an Eatily cooking school.
Posted by
32 posts
We have been to Florence twice and are going again next April. We use Florence as a base. We did a private day tour to San Gimingnano then lunch was at a beautiful winery and then Siena. We loved San Gimingnano and thought of staying there next year but because we are not driving it is hard to get around with public transport. We also caught the train to Venice for the day
We stayed opposite the Mercarto in Florence whichwas a mistake- noisy. I have booked next year's apartment from Airbnb 6 nights for $609! Near the Duomo.
Florence can be over run with tourists but we love it. We plan to visit Arezzo and Cortona and maybe a coastal town.
Posted by
5 posts
I can suggest Hotel Gioia in Florence (http://www.hotelgioia.it/ ). It is only 5 mins walking distance from the Duomo! We stayed there with my two sisters during our Italy trip in May 2016. The hotel is cozy, the rooms are spacious and the personnel is very friendly. They even gave us 2 coffee cups with Florence engraved on them as a present before we left. I agree with Joe’s recommendation for Greve and Castellina. They both are small Chianti villages with beautiful shops and buildings.
Posted by
Wyckoff, NJ, USA
7359 posts
Are there any villages with "daily" markets? The predominance of main-tourist-street cheese and olive oil shops must have driven real markets almost out of existence by now. I'd be glad to hear there is some trace of the past, but even locals don't have time to walk around with a basket on their arm anymore.
Although we did not restrict our visits to Chianti, during our recent visit we were struck that the most picturesque towns were surviving as a ghost of what they used to be. For example, Sant'Angelo in Colle has two popular restaurants, but is a sleepy vision of what it once was, and must have no night life. The very scenic Monteriggioni was looking forward to the annual medieval life festival where, no doubt, the merchants and room owners will make 25% of their annual income. Castiglione del Lago and Cortona looked more like a place I'd be willing to sleep, but they had clear differences between the old and the new.
I wonder if "old" Tuscany is finally crumbling under the combined onslaughts of the internet and the Great Recession?
Posted by
seattle
2048 posts
A restaurant to consider if you go to Chianti region is Ristore di Lamole in the tiny village of Lamole. It is up a winding road, but well worth the journey. Everything was wonderful, but we especially enjoyed the antipasti. The beef carpaccio salad was amazing! I think they'll make one for you, even if it's not on the menu. We also like the Chianti wine made in Lamole.
Posted by
616 posts
Markets are where the Italians go to to buy food and I really doubt it will disappear as it is part of Italian life style. There are plenty of them in Florence. I love San Ambroggio
Just check this website and you will find when markets are taking place
Posted by
OP
2 posts
Thanks everyone for your replies. I have printed them out and will be helpful! BTW, does anyone have an opinion about the weather and crowds in November? Would go before thanksgiving.
Posted by
2 posts
Don't buy the Firenze card!! It's not worth the 72 euro.
Posted by
Rural Georgia
2121 posts
I have printed them out and will be helpful! BTW, does anyone have an opinion about the weather and crowds in November?
We were there mid-December last year. The weather was pleasant, we only had sprinkles one day. The highs were in the upper 50's-low 60's, with a little frost most mornings. They did remark that the weather was clearer and milder for that time of year.
Florence was not that crowded, but still pretty busy. It was just before Christmas, so there might have been some folks there for the Holidays. I would imagine November would be similar, if not a little less busy. We were the only guests in our agriturismo near Greve the entire week! It was nice to be pampered, but I missed getting to meet other travelers.
I'm jealous. I really want to go back!