We know the Italians are serious about their gelato. Here's proof:
It seems there has so far been no protection for makers of the serious stuff, unlike rules applied to wine, cheese, prosciutto, and other edibles. The proposed legislation targets air content (maximum of 30%; some are now up to 80%), use of synthetic flavorings and dyes, and use of pre-processed flavor powders.
I wish this effort would expand beyond Italy. I know what to look for, but--especially outside Italy--it's difficult to find gelato that isn't mounded high and garnished with things like cheap cookies.