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italy summer 2023

hello all,

i will be in the eu for two months, may 4 to july 5. plan is to start in venice travel west across the top of italy then hop over to spain. i have a thread going for spain; here i want to focus on italy. i have the first and probably the most basic question people ask. how many days in venice should i spend? i travel slow and interested in art and architecture. i mainly indulge in photography. i am thinking 7 days. too little? i want to visit all the islands, museums, and churches, walk, explore, take naps in the afternoon, etc! also, does it make sense to buy a vaporetto and other attraction cards? looking to stay in an airbnb on the main island but perhaps another island is not a bad solution, especially for the price. i would rather not stay in mestre as i like to go out at dawn to catch the morning light and avoid people in my photos! any and all advice is highly welcome.

thanks!

Posted by
567 posts

I think 7 days is enough. Maybe too much? You don't say where else you are going, but there are a lot of other places to see in Italy. Venice is lovely, but also crowded.

Posted by
1147 posts

Hello alomaker,

A week in Venice sounds like such a luxury, but I think it is probably enough time. With that much time it would make sense to explore more of the Lagoon as well. If you are into photography do not miss outlying places like Burano. This will also help take you away from the crush of the day tripping crowds. Exploring Venice in the early morning and evening hours and getting away from the central areas will help with this as well. In May your days are long sunrise just before 6:00 and sunset after 8:00 so you will have nice long days and interesting light.

For a long stay the Vaporetto transit pass probably makes sense - the number of trips you need to do a day becomes easy because the cost per day after 3 days drops off quickly. Do the needed trips per day math but I think the freedom will probably be worth it. Also don't miss the Traghetti for the real Venice canal experience cheaply.

Attraction cards are only worth it if you are really going to go to a number a places. Venice also has a number of different competing cards so it takes some research. I would recommend looking into some walking tours on different subjects that could add depth to the history and culture of Venice.

I would not stay on mestre - that misses the whole point of being in Venice.

Sounds magical - have a great trip!
=Tod

Posted by
560 posts

@alomaker

Just returning from a 4 nights photo trip to Venice. 7 days sounds great :-) You will love it.

Still working on my photos but once done I let you know. You will hardly see any people there when I was taking my photos.

Posted by
371 posts

thank you all for your replies!

@lisa: i haven't finished working out my itinerary yet but after venice i want to head for verona and a few other places north of tuscany. visited several places in lombardia and emilia romanga in the early 2000's. memory is hazy so happy to revisit. went to ravenna, padua and florence (just the uffizi) last year. pretty satisfied with my travels in tuscany and further south all the way to sicily. what would be some of your suggestions? certainly, no one is ever 'done' with italy in a lifetime!

@hiredman: i was in venice for 2 days over 20 years ago. always wanted to return. now's the time so i decided to indulge. found a reasonable airbnb in giudecca (figured it's better than being in mestre). when traveling i tend to wake up early and start wandering around even before the locals are up and about! helps me get photos in the early morning light and without people. a 2nd walkabout in the evening. has worked well so far.

@mignon: i have been following your posts over in the photography thread. can't wait to see your photos!

Posted by
28247 posts

I spent nine nights in Venice last fall, partly to indulge my love of glass. I definitely didn't get to do as much non-glass exploring as I would have liked to, and I am not a serious photographer. I'm confident seven days will not be too long for you.

The one-week vaporetto pass is what you will want. It costs 65 euros, as compared to 9.50 euros for an individual ticket. If you stick with staying on Giudecca, you'll probably be taking at least two vaporetto rides per day, because you have no other (affordable) way to get off that Island. The vaporetto pass will have paid for itself by the fourth day. And then you have a minimum of four trips needed for Murano-Murano-Torcello, even if you cram them into one day. Incidentally, photography was not being allowed inside the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta on Torcello as of last September.

I spent a couple of hours walking around Giudecca last year. I didn't get all the way to the western end. My impression based on that very limited exposure was that Giudecca is attractive and less tourist-trampled than many other parts of Venice, but perhaps lacking enough architectural variety to keep you from wanting to explore other areas of the city every single day. I wonder whether the need to start many/most of your days with a crack-of-dawn wait for a vaporetto, rather than being able to just leave your lodging and walk a few blocks, will get somewhat frustrating. I'd suggest fiddling around with the vaporetto schedule--or perhaps the chebateo app--to get an idea of the frequency of the boats and time required to reach various destinations for early-morning and late-night photography. I do understand the challenge of finding an affordable place to stay for such a long visit to Venice; I was fortunate (and grateful) to have someone splitting the lodging cost with me.

If you're interested in indoor photography, the very inexpensive Chorus Pass will be worthwhile. It covers at least a dozen of the less famous churches. Even though you probably won't end up going to all of them, you should find yourself near enough of them to at least break even. It's nice not to have to keep fumbling for 3 euros, or whatever the individual entry fee is.

You can buy both the Chorus Pass and the vaporetto pass at the tourist office in the train station. I don't think the more costly city sightseeing pass would fit your plans. As a photographer, you're going to want to wander down any calle that beckons, not design a sightseeing schedule that smashes a bunch of high-traffic sights into as short a pass period as possible.

Posted by
560 posts

A vote here for Giudecca as well. I did not explore much unfortunately this time but it is an amazing photo spot.

Posted by
371 posts

@acraven: thank you for your thoughtful insight and suggestions! i will definitely get the 7 day vaporetto pass especially now that i going to be staying off the main island. i will look into the various city passes including the Chorus pass. you have the 'photographer' in me figured out very well, i will be looking for canaletto and belotto in present-day venice!

@mignon: looking at your photos i can't wait!

Posted by
371 posts

hello all,
travel day is wednesday may 3. i am looking at all the options on the 'venezia unica' site and have narrowed down the passes to get. the airport to city transfer, the 7-day actv pass, the chorus pass and the naval museum pass. i am still debating if i want a city pass that includes the 16 chorus churches. i do want to visit the correr but not interested in most of the others on the list. surprisingly, the gallerie dell' accademia is not listed nor is saint marks. do these sites need separate tickets anyway? are these timed entry tickets? insights are most welcome. thanks!

Posted by
732 posts

We purchased the Chorus pass and barely used it. Mostly, I was thinking since it was going to be HOT when we were there, that having the pass would allow us to stop in a church, have a sit down and cool off. It was very hot while we were there, but we never seemed to be close to any of the churches, so stopped for aperitivo instead!

When we finally got to a point to see some of the churches on the Chorus Pass, I had inadvertently separated the QR code from the entire piece of paper and they want the full sheet to begin the process-name, et al!! We ended up visiting two of them is all. This brings me to this: if you are intent on seeing the churches, then purchase the pass. Otherwise, there are beautiful ones to see that aren’t on the pass and there is so much to see otherwise, it may not be worth it for you.

I also think if you don’t do it now, you can still go back and purchase it once there. Price won’t change just because you didn’t combine it with the vap pass, which is really worth time/money!!

Buon viaggio. (Hope you found accommodations IN Venice.)

Posted by
28247 posts

You can buy the Chorus Pass at a booth in the train station. I liked having the pass, but despite nine days in Venice I only did a tiny bit better than breaking even. I don't think there's going to be a big swing for you, one way or the other. For folks making multiple trips during the validity of the pass (which as I recall is one year), it would probably be a no-brainer to buy it.

You can buy a timed entry ticket for San Marco online, but I'm not sure how far ahead, and they may already be sold out for May 3. You can also stand in line. The line looked really long last September, but it moved quite fast, so it only took 30 minutes. It might have been faster earlier in the morning, because a lot of visitors to Venice just day trip in.

There is an entry fee for the Accademia. I don't remember whether the entries are timed, but I just walked right up and got in last September. The art museum where you'd be smart to make a reservation in advance is the Guggenheim. It is very popular (and justifiably so, if you like modern art).

Posted by
371 posts

thank you acraven and sjs! i think i will buy the entrance tickets to the museums and churches as i need them. i will certainly get 7 day transportation pass.

Posted by
732 posts

I definitely missed the photography part! Therefore, the Chorus Pass could be very useful even if you don’t break even. Walk up and show your pass-as acraven says, no fumbling for the euro coins.
I wish I was a photographer. There was so much to capture. I do have lots of photos of dilapidated doors and windows from Venice and especially Burano.

Posted by
371 posts

hello all,
after 7 days in venice and 3 of 4 days in vicenza and i am interested in doing a day trip to bardolino on lake garda. i want to visit the san zeno church there plus whatever else may catch my eye. the question is what is the best way to get there from vicenza? rome2rio says train to peschiera and then a bus to bardolino. trainitalia site says train to verona then bus to bardolino. anyone done these routes and if yes which one is the best? also, has anyone been to the san zeno church recently? wonder if it will be open? can't find much info on the web. I have all day to explore. thanks!

Posted by
28247 posts

I haven't been to Bardolino, but I'd never fully trust Rome2Rio on anything.

It appears that both routings involve the same bus (163 or 164), which originates in Verona and passes through Peschiera del Garda on the way to Bardolino. You have an option as to where you switch from train to bus. The train may be a bit more comfortable, but if for some wild reason tons of people are trying to take the bus that day, you might be glad to board it near its point of origin, in Verona. It starts its run at Piazza Bra, but you'd be making the switch at the stop near the train station. On the other hand, if lots of people take the bus from Verona to a stop before Peschiera, you'd prefer to board the bus after they're gone. In other words, I have no idea which option would be better.

I don't see the summer timetable, which could be different. This is the schedule for ATV 164, labeled as being valid until April 22: Bus 164 winter timetable

Being cheap, I'd be trying to avoid the 9:04 AM departure, which begins with a Frecciarossa train to Verona and costs 2-1/2 times as much as the other departures.

Posted by
371 posts

@ acraven: i agree about rome2rio. they have led me in circles a couple of times. i almost missed the rare bus to stilo last year because rome2rio put me in a dead-end street showing it to be the stop for the local bus. luckily i asked someone and they put me on the right track.

regarding bardolino, someone suggested taking the ferry from peschiera. intriguing option, especially for the possible photo-ops.

thanks for your input.