Italy in winter

Then up to Cinque Terre, which is the destination I look forward to most. I'll stay at CT 4-5 nights - really want to hike to my heart's content and visit all 5 towns.

• I believe most, if not all of the trails, as well as hotels in CT are closed during the winter due to the weather.

You may want to read Ken's post on this thread regarding the trails in the C.T

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/20th-anniversary-trip-to-italy
Ken's post was on 11/17.

Many of the hotels in CT are family-owned & they look forward to taking a much needed break in the winter (usually November- Mid-March)

I'm sure others will chime in with good ideas for you to enjoy your winter trip.

Make sure you take a raincoat!

Do you recommend a rental car or public transport that time of year?
Winter won't be congested at all. However a car is not a necessity. You can do with the local buses.

Is Vesuvius hikable in winter?
If the weather permits. Hard to predict.

Is Capri open?
Yes. People live in the island.

the Blue Grotto?
Unlikely. Seas will likely be too rough.

ferries to get there?
Ferries to Capri, yes. No ferries to the Blue Grotto. Only small row boats.

(Cinque Terre) Will I be able to hike there in winter?
No. All trails are likely closed.

Will there be enough restaurants and shops open?
Many will be closed, but you won't starve. I recommend staying in Monterosso for a more ample choice of both.

thinking about Orvieto or Assisi?
Orvieto is more on the rail line between Florence and Roma. However Orvieto is an easy day trip from Rome, therefore I would stay an extra day in Rome and visit it from there.

Do my plans sound doable, given that it is winter?
Everything is doable, however the Cinque Terre will be largely dead. I wouldn't bother with it in winter, but if you absolutely must, I would recommend to keep it shorter. You can visit all towns in a day by train, so I wouldn't stay longer than 2 days (3 nights). You won't be able to hike. I would devote more time to cities.

December 2012 we visited Rome for a week, flew to Sicily, then rented a car there that we ferried back to the mainland and drove to Sorrento (stopping in Paestum along the way, among other places). Have been to C.T. in summer but not December, and the Trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola was closed then for reconstruction (as I understand happens occasionally).

We kept the car for a few days in and around Sorrento for an Amalfi Coast drive (which we might not have tried during a busier time of year), using it to get to Herculaneum and also Pompeii (open on New Year's Day!), but we used the train for visiting Naples. Did not visit Vesuvius, but saw it often from a distance.

Some others at our B&B got to see the Blue Grotto on their daytrip to Capri 2 days earlier, as the sea was calm enough for the rowboats to enter. On our day, although the ferry from Sorrento to Capri was able to make it to Capri and back, the seas were declared too rough that day to see the Blue Grotto, so it's hit and miss - and not just in December. There were still tour boats circling the island that day, so you could join one and see the coastline from the water, but we opted to stay on the island and walk to sights.

Our B&B was actually in Piano di Sorrento, north of Sorrento proper, and wasn't on the coast, so I won't recommend it if you want a fine sea view, but it worked very well for our needs, and parking was easy there.

We had an apartment in the Trastevere neighborhood of Rome, and would highly recommend that location for charm, safety, and peace. Our apartment rented only by the week, but you should be able to find a suitable place for 3-4 nights. The #8 tram gets you across the Tiber to downtown Rome.

Be aware that the days are shorter in December, so it gets dark earlier. Rain is likely for part of your stay - locals toted umbrellas, so dress accordingly. Also, it was sometimes cool, but not outright cold, so bring an appropriate jacket and an extra layer or two to wear.

Sounds like you enjoy outdoors activities, Peggy. Unfortunately as others have pointed out, some places like Vesuvius and the Cinque Terre may not be feasible. As mentioned, the CT absolutely closes down and proprietors leave town.

We enjoyed a week in Sorrento in Dec 2011: Cold enough for warms layers and gloves, and all but one day were sunny. We visited Pompeii, Ercolano, Naples (Rick Steves' book has a wonderful one day self-tour), Amalfi Town with a "hike" to Atrani. We have also visited Ravello off-season and though it is quiet there with few restaurants open, it is peaceful with fantastic vistas assuming good weather. We stayed at B&B Auditorium Rooms and loved it. You can day trip there, too of course. Be sure to see Villa Cimbrone.

The same trip we did Venice, Umbria and Rome for about a week each. In Umbria we stayed Spello: Charming and quiet with great food. Visited Assisi, Spoleto (some hiking!) and Perugia. Rome is Rome and there's an endless variety of things to do rain or shine. Florence is also terrific in winter when the tourists are few, the museums accessible, and the hotels cost less.

In your planning, be sure to have some city-options so you are not in a rural area with nothing to do if it rains. We do a lot of city-hikes. Even in Rome you can walk in the Aqueduct Park, up the Gianicolo or Monte Mario, etc.

Where to stay in Rome? The historical center is most atmospheric. Think Campo dei Fiori, Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. It is a very safe city, I never feel threatened or in danger in any way -- except from motorini buzzing too close!

Thanks very much Macy, Roberto, Cyn, and Laurel - really appreciate your advice. I will follow it and rethink especially the CT part. I'll still keep my hopes up to hike Mt Vesuvius!
Ciao,
Peggy

Hotel dei Templi in Paestum is at the edge of the archeological zone, in fact it has its own entrance to the site (you can buy tickets at the restaurant or hotel). The restaurant is excellent. About a kilometer from the ruins is Hotel Poseidonia Mare, less expensive and very good.

In Rome, Hotel Teateo Della Pace near Piazza Navona is very nice.