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Italy in the Winter

First, a preface: My family and I are last minute travelers. Last April we took a 10-day trip to France with two weeks notice (Paris to the Dordogne to Provence), and everyone loved it. The kids actually enjoyed Louvre, d'Orsay, and loved all things Paris, and we all fell in love with medieval, small-town, and countryside France. We are now passionate about Italy, and we have watched every Rick Steve's Italy DVD at least twice. The kids range from 9 to 16 with one additional straggler (2) who is quite low maintenance and easy to manage because all of the "big people" surrounding her. My question is this: I'm thinking of taking a spontaneous trip to Italy for the family starting about December 17 through January the 5. 16 days. I had been planning to take this trip in June of 2012 (spring is not an option this year), but I'm getting the hankering to do it now. Am I selling my self way short by not waiting till June? On my list of things to see are the countryside and small towns of Tuscany and Umbria, the biggies (Rome, Florence, Venice) and the Amalfi coast. I've been dying to do the Cinque Terra but that would probably be not be worth it in the winter (not to mention, we might just get in the way in Vernazza right now). The cold doesn't bother us (we're in utah and it will be 30-40 degrees here during that time) but I don't want the cold weather to ruin the romantic visions I have of hanging out in small town Italy. Should I wait till June or do it now? And if you recommend going now, what might you change about my itinerary?

Posted by
11337 posts

Headed to Italy ourselves in 2 weeks! I think you will be fine especially since you live in a colder climate. In the south, even Rome, there will be some of the hangout factor, although it will be more limited in Venice and Florence. Florence had a ton of snow in Dec 2010, so be aware, it can be cold there. Venice is more moderate because of the sea (the climate is much lile we have in Portland in winter). You will "lose" a couple of days Dec 25 & 26 as both days are official holidays. While there are some sites open the 26th, you have to choose and plan carefully. Personally, we'll be in Rome those days (in fact for over a week!) as I think Christmas in Rome offers more variety on days a small town might really shut down.

Posted by
11337 posts

Continued: Here's a possible approach to a trip this time of year with what I count as 18 nights, assuming arrival on the 18th and departure on Jan 5. It hits much of what you listed. I agree this is not a great time of year for the Cinque Terre. When it rains, there's really nothing to do there, and many lodgings and restaurants close down. Dec 18-19-20 Venice Dec 21-22-23 Siena or Florence Dec 24-25-26-27-28 Rome Dec 29-30-31-Jan 1 Sorrento Jan 2-3 Assisi (not too far from Rome, only 2 hours by train, so you get much of two days to enjoy)) Jan 4 back to Rome for one night before flying out Edit: Would be good use of time to fly into Venice and out of Rome if you can arrange it. Here are some good sources on Christmas in Italy http://www.eurocheapo.com/blog/rome-spending-christmas-in-rome.html http://www.revealedrome.com/2010/12/romes-best-holiday-events-christmas-natale-december-january.html http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/everything-you-need-to-know-about-spending-the-holidays-in-italy.html. Good luck and happy planning!

Posted by
1829 posts

Venice can be particularly cold in winter. It is subject to winds coming in from Eastern Europe and they can be eyewatering at times. However we love visiting in the winter, it is never devoid of tourists but nothing like the warmer months, just wrap up well. Also remember daylight hours are shorter, sunset at about 4.30pm

Posted by
524 posts

Jeffrey I would hold out until June, as early in June as you can make it. The longer day provides much more time for walking and seeing the cities and countryside. Allows for time to catch your breath mid day and then go out in the evening when there is still day light. And the warm weather makes it much much easier to pack light and travel with your family. Having spent a fall and winter traveling in Europe many years ago, I can tell you my main memories are grey, damp, and chilly. From what I read, it seems as if you don't mind having many destinations. Another idea might be to stay for 4 - 5 days at an agriturismo in walking distance to a small town or near Siena and do day trips in Tuscany or Umbria. Gives you a chance to settle in and still get a really good feel for the Italian countryside. Let us know what you decide. Bobbie

Posted by
32212 posts

Jeffrey, I tend to agree with the last reply, and suggest waiting for June. "Romantic visions of hanging out in small town Italy" may not be what you have envisioned. The weather could very well be cold and rainy, and while you'll be able to tolerate the cold temperatures, the experience likely wouldn't be too pleasant. In reading over your proposed Itinerary to visit the "small towns of Tuscany and Umbria, the biggies (Rome, Florence, Venice) and the Amalfi coast", that seems to be a LOT to cover in a short 16-day time frame. Regarding your statement that you would "just get in the way in Vernazza right now", you won't be able to "get in the way" at all, as the village has been evacuated and ONLY emergency and reconstruction workers are allowed there at the present time. I don't think you'll have time to fit the Cinque Terre in anyway. My suggestion would be to postpone the trip until June. In any case, I believe it will be necessary to reduce the number of places you'll be visiting unless you can add more time. Cheers!

Posted by
791 posts

Agree with waiting until June. As others mentioned...shorter days, wet weather very possible and cold. While you may be ok with the cold Italians are not. Part of the hanging out in small Italian towns is having dinner on the sidewalk or a morning espresso in the main piazza. You'll find that all the outside seating is non existant during the winter or you'll be inside a tent like portion of the place which usually obscures the vision as well as walls. The fog you're most likely to come across in the Veneto and Tuscany will obscure that vision also. At the moment we have it so thick you can't see more than 20 feet ahead of yourself. Alot of places simply close down for the winter also. Probably would'n't be much of a problem in the bigger cities but the smaller towns.....you're more likely to come across that. Especially coastal towns.

Posted by
653 posts

Jeffrey, loved reading your post! I think Italy in winter is great, if you can take some cold weather and plan on more museums and churches than outdoor cafes, but I would save the coastal areas (Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast) for a sunnier time of year. These areas, which rely on summer tourism, tend to close in on themselves in winter, and the views are not usually sunny.

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you all for your thoughtful replies. Your comments have helped me to have more patience and wait till early June. While the thought of being able to navigate museums and churches in the winter with less fellow tourists seemed appealing, the downside of missing things that cold weather prohibits seems too great.

Posted by
381 posts

Good move to wait until June. We made similiar trips that you have made. One trip was to Paris and the Dordonge region. Another trip was to Rome, Florence and the Amalfi coast. We made both trips in late may and loved them. We also spent a great deal of time researching the places we wanted to see in advance and making reservations for some. It says so much time and you get to see so much more if you plan your trip out in advance. For example, the Borghese gallery in Rome is fantastic and should not be missed. But if you don't have reservations you might not see it. There is so much to see in Rome and you will never see it all in one trip. So buy the Rick Steves guide book and prioritize what you want to see. Also I highly recommend the Scavi tour at the vatican. You need reservations sometimes months in advance for it. Good luck

Posted by
64 posts

I would suggest visiting Assisi after Siena/Florence rather than back tracking from Rome. You may also think about transfering in Rome and go straight to Amalfi Coast and then spend the last days in Rome. I had a rental car for Tuscany/Umbria, so this advise assumes there is a train from Siena or Florence to Assisi.