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Italy in December

Hi guys,

I am a recently graduated professional looking to take my fiancé on his first ever international trip. He is only available from December 15th-January 6th due to his work obligations. I am likely going to have to be working Christmas (us new grads have to earn the good holidays off).

So my question is this, is it better to go to Italy in the weeks before Christmas (December 15-December 24th) or the weeks after Christmas (December 26th- January 6th)?

Obviously I'd prefer a longer duration trip, but I am a little concerned that all of the beautiful Christmas festivities might have died down if we arrive after the holiday. I know they also celebrate Epiphany on January 6th, but I don't know what to expect with that holiday.

We are thinking Florence, Rome and maybe some places further south where it will be warmer? I imagine Venice might be brutally cold that time of year.

Thank you for your help and advice!

Posted by
1528 posts

Xmas festivities in Italy begin on the afternoon of Dec. 24th and go to Jan 6th. On Dec. 25th, Dec 26th, the evening of Dec. 31h, Jan. 1st and Jan. 6th almost everything comes to a standstill; Sundays included in the period are pretty dead too. So, first study the calendar and consider if you can fit your visit around these dates.

Venice isn't brutally cold but it's brutally humid and may be subject to high water. Don't expect Florence and Rome to be much hotter but are not as problematic. Also, in all cities you have the option of taking a taxi if you get tired but not in Venice - a consideration in cold and humid climate.

Posted by
1388 posts

Four years ago we arrived in Venice on Dec 15th, stayed for 6 nights, then took the train to Florence for 11 nights, then to Rome for 4 nights. No side trips. We called it The Art Trip because we were traveling without our kids and because we figured (correctly except for the Vatican Museum) that the big art galleries, churches, and museums would be way less heavily touristed then. In other words, this trip spanned the entire time you are asking about.

We flew into and out of Milan because the tickets were SO cheap, but it would be better to fly into Venice and out of Rome (or, even better, to go to Rome first after Venice and then fly out of Florence).

Venice was NOT cold, although Venetians and their dogs were wearing down coats. It rained a bit one or two days and it was beautifully foggy sometimes. Florence was cold and slightly snowy and windy on only one day. True, we are Minnesotans, but I hate being cold. All three places were wonderfully uncrowded compared to the times we've been to each in warmer months. We actually travel to Italy in November and December as our first choice.

My vote is that you go before Christmas --- between Christmas and New Years we found that more restaurants and also rooms in museums and galleries were closed due to Italians being on holiday. The pre-Christmas markets and street decorations and nativity scenes were fun.

So, with 8 nights in Italy, you might want to pick only two places, but it depends on what you want to see and do. Visiting only Rome and Florence is probably the easiest trip to do. We also, in other years, went to Naples and to Emilia-Romagna before Christmas if you'd like to hear about that.

Posted by
2111 posts

We are,Episcopalians. Like Catholics, Advent runs to Christmas Eve and Christmas runs from then until Epiphany (the 12 days of Christmas).

We were in Italy two weeks before Christmas and had a wonderful time. The weather was cool, but mostly sunny and pleasant. There were lots of Christmas markets and not many tourists.

Posted by
7837 posts

He is only available from December 15th-January 6th due to his work obligations.

That is good a lot of people have less freedom.

Go after Xmas. It seems more fun for an adult to ring in the New Year in a foreign country partying with locals than being away from family on Xmas eve and day.

I imagine Venice might be brutally cold that time of year.

That is the big drawback living in warm climate all year round. Take it from someone from Chicago Venice is no where near ever brutally cold

Posted by
15582 posts

And as an ex-Chicagoan, I'll chime in that winter in Italy isn't half bad. Venice can be cold, but high 40s cold, if that, and only windy if you take a walking tour to some of its extremities - but there's yummy hot chocolate to warm you and ubiquitous espresso machines. Florence can be colder, but you won't be outside for very long at a time with so many sights to visit. I've been in Rome in snow and it wasn't really cold either - after the snow stopped, the sun came out and it was a wonder to behold.

While there are probably Christmas markets that you'd enjoy in the week before Christmas, I'd go with the longer trip. More is more in this case.

Posted by
1388 posts

Ok, two more nights in Italy is the better deal, so I switch my vote. Be sure to wear red underwear for New Years!

Posted by
31 posts

First of all- thank you so much for all the replies! I am definitely feeling more confident about the weather! It sounds like its nothing a thick coat can't fix! Texas has some temperamental winters as well, so it actually sounds quite a bit like home.

Do you think there will be many markets/public festivities after the 25th or do they all close down after Christmas Day? I don't mind a few days of just wandering and doing Rick's audio tours, but I was rather hoping to show him some more cultural events as well. Since neither one of us would be able to spend the holiday with our families anyway, it would be so nice to capture a bit of that seasonal spirit on the trip.

I agree, though, more days is always better!

Thank you again, everyone.

Posted by
90 posts

I've done both - before and during/after Christmas. Both were great.

Venice in the winter is MUCH quieter and really interesting if you are there during acqua alta. I was actually really nervous about it but it was great and something to see. The flooding doesn't last all day. I haven't been there during the Christmas week, so the crowds might be greater.

The week of Christmas is fun and busy - and the weather was brilliant for us. (New Yorker here, where we have had 3' of snow for Christmas.) If you have never been and only have 10 days on the ground, I would split between Florence and Rome and throw in a day trip to Siena (from Florence) or Ostia Antica or Orvieto (from Rome) if you are itching to get out of a city. That way you can really enjoy the holidays. One of the things we enjoyed is looking at nativity scenes (presepe in Italian) at different churches. Some of them are extremely elaborate.

Posted by
7837 posts

Do you think there will be many markets/public festivities after the 25th or do they all close down after Christmas Day?

I 've been going to Europe the last 5 years starting on or around December 26. I find except for the really small towns there is always a lot going on through the end of the first week of the New Year before people go back to work

Posted by
1540 posts

I read through this thread pretty quickly, so excuse me if this topic has been mentioned. I love the many Christmas Markets all over Europe - covering most of December. Here is a link to the various Christmas Markets in Italy.
The locals really love them and at night they are spectacular.
Italy Christmas Markets

Posted by
15582 posts

I'd guess that the nativity scenes would remain in all the churches through Epiphany and indeed they can be elaborate and beautiful. They began with St. Francis of Assisi. While the markets may close before Xmas, decorations won't come down as fast.

Posted by
2111 posts

There’s another treat in Italy in December- roasted chestnuts! I’d never had them before. Street vendors set up their stalls on street corners. We bought a bag while on an evening stroll in Siena. They enhanced an already magical atmosphere.

Maybe we’re a hardy breed but we never needed more than a light/medium sweater. Evenings were in the mid-40s.