I love love Italy. Especially Tuscany, Umbria... the villages, the landscapes, the art.... well, you know! I've been to Italy at least a dozen times over the last 20 years, usually in May, June or October, but once in March (Mardi Gras holidays) and twice in November (Thanksgiving). Recently, my non-profit CEO (employer) just gave us all the week off between Christmas and New Years. By only using four vacation days, I could spend two weeks in Italy! A dear friend who has not been there for over 30 years wants to join me, and make it a "big three plus Assisi" vacation. This actually seems sensible - more to do inside, should the weather be as damp and chilly as it might well be. (I've done some initial on-line checking, and see that the Uffizi is only closed on Dec. 25 & Jan 1; the Guggenheim in Venice is open on New Years Day, etc.) Also, I'm suspecting that much might be closed up rather tight in smaller towns I love like Volterra and Montepulciano?? So, dear Italiaphiles, what advice, wisdom, and insight do you have to share about travel in (and day tripping from??) Roma/Firenze/Venezia/Assisi, at that time of year? Thank you!
I don't find Mediterranean winters to be that dark, even though sundown comes earlier. This isn't Cleveland. November and December can still be quite lovely, with folks eating outdoors, if you get lucky with sunshine and little rain.
If you're talking about this Christmas, you may have to accept over-priced leftovers. I wouldn't wait much longer to pull plans together.
I think you will love it!
Layering is key for me, I hate feeling too warm. I did fine in December with a couple of sweaters and a medium-weight jacket. That was in Roma. Venezia could be chillier because of the lagoon.
Buon viaggio!
Go!! That advice is based on my belief that two weeks in Italy (even in the darkest winter when some places will be closed) will still be better than spending that two weeks at home.
Shorter days so can do less per day, but lack of crowds will be a very welcome site.
Still likely warmer and more pleasant than where you will be traveling from, as long as you are flexible and pack for various weather I don't see why you cannot have a great time.
My complete guess is the cities will work out well but day trips to smaller villages may not be a great idea.
Even though till pretty, visiting a small hill town when it is effectively closed down would not leave the same impression.
I wouldn't book any day trip plans in advance, rather wait until you are there and have an accurate weather forecast to make the plans for the following day or two.
Thanks, NYC. I'm in New Orleans, so anything north of St. Louis seems rather dark in winter to me, perhaps...? I found an Expedia flight & 4-nights-in-Rome roundtrip package (good Delta flights) for $964! I'm almost always a book-it-myself woman, so buying a package from a third party feels uncomfortable, but the price sure is good. I've also been checking hotels and so far (except for Venice over New Years!) am finding availability in some trusted spots. However, your advice is wise and I want to go ahead and book it all very very soon. Thanks, again.
Oh, mreynolds, good idea not to book any day trips ahead of time, but to wait until just a day or two ahead of time and watch the weather forecast. I was considering the Walkabout Florence daytrip that goes to Siena, San Gig, etc. But in the rain that could be .... well not all that pleasant. Thank you!
I haven't been during the shortest days of the year, but I have been several times in February- my estimate is that the days are shorter at year end but the weather won't be any worse. 3 times in Venice in February, each time with a mixture of rain, clouds and sunshine - one day gratefully drinking hot chocolate after a very chilling walking tour, the very next day sitting in full sun and drinking an iced spritz with my coat off. Once I walked through slushy snow in Padua, the next day had to wait for the acqua alta to subside in Venice (wouldn't trade that experience for the world) so I could walk with my wheelie suitcase to my hotel, but again 2 days later, taking off my jacket and basking in the sunshine in Cannareggio over drinks and sandwiches. Even when I was lucky enough to be in Rome during a rare (first in 25 years) snowfall, it was sunny and above freezing as I enjoyed seeing the ancient Roman monuments covered in white.
Verona, Venice, Padua, Florence, Rome . . . all open as usual in low season February - so they must be open during the popular winter vacation time. This past February I spent time in Naples and Salerno - even much of the Amalfi Coast was open . . . though many hotels and B&Bs and restaurants do close off-season, everything in the two big towns was "business as usual."
We rang in 2015 in Florence after spending Christmas in Rome... and then headed to Venice and Milan. I thought it was a great time to visit Italy and we had a blast!!
As for the smaller towns, that might not be as enjoyable depending upon the day and the weather but you should be able to play that by ear and there is more than enough in the "big three" to keep you happily occupied and fed.
As for the weather, even if it's damp and chilly, if you have the right clothing and shoes it's not a problem at all. It rained the entire time we were in Venice but it didn't stop us from doing/seeing what we wanted.
As for clothing, think in terms of layers and throw in a pair of long underwear - I like the heattech line from Uniqlo. Bring a waterproof jacket and a packable down jacket, long pants, a couple of sweaters, long sleeved t shirts, scarf and gloves and you're good to go!
On the subject of travel clothing.
I bought for a recent trip a Merino Wool Tee Shirt (NTS 150 from the brand Smartwool)
They make mens and womens short and long sleeve versions.
I had debated buying one for some time because I heard they were great but couldn't justify the cost.
Most expensive tee shirt I have ever purchased but the thing is worth every cent.
Good for cold, hot, rain, you can basically do anything in it and it will be like new the next day.
I don't think a better base layer exists.
I bought it as a layer for Norway before we left and noticed in one of the hotels I stayed in that was obviously geared toward serious hikers and mountaineering folks in Andalsnes, Norway they were selling them in the hotel lobby ; I saw at most 1 or 2 other products for sale at this hotel and this from a small brand from the United States to be the main product they were selling was very bizarre.
Don't miss the Verona Christmas Market in and around the Piazza della Erbe.
Outdoor Ice rink in the Campo San Polo, Venice.
We are decidedly off-season travelers to Italy, twice going there in late February/early March. Weather? About what Chani described, anything from windy/cold (but not Chicago-biting) in Florence & Salerno to sunny and temperate in Rome and Pompei to rainy & foggy in Sorrento. A mixed bag to be sure, but the trade-off is huge. No lines to get into restaurants or attractions, especially during the week. But with the increasing popularity of Italy as a tourist destination, be forewarned that weekends and holidays in the cities have a fair amount of tourists 52 weeks out of the year--no getting around that.
But especially in Rome, winter is simply marvelous, especially in contrast with the heat wave in most of the country this last summer.
It's a no-brainer. Go. Enjoy. Tell us about it.
And a big part of the allure of traveling anywhere in winter is the need to cozy up in a restaurant, café, pub, enoteca, with a beverage of your choice . . .
December is my favorite time in Venezia. Christmas week might be a bit crowded, but at least no cruise ships!
The Christmas lights add so much in all the Italian towns! Warm coat, gloves, boots, layers. Good-to-go.
We visited Assisi in December, too, on a rather rainy day, but got a feel for the town and saw the Basilica with nary a person in it. (We are, in fact, in Assisi now in perfect weather and enjoying it all the more.)
Thank you all so much for the encouragement and the good advice: layers, layers; carefully chosen long underwear; not planning day trips ahead of time; Christmas markets (ooohh!); maintain flexibility; no cruise ships in Venice (hurrah!); cozying up in local cafes...and be prepared for acqua alta! You all have given me a lot to think about and some really useful information. I'll plan on booking flights & hotels within the next few days. What a marvelous community this is!