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Italy, Groceries and Supermarkets = Fun

One of the things I like very much about staying in AirBnb’s is the ability to cook meals for ourselves and especially to visit the supermarkets, stores, vegetable and fruit sellers and the weekly farmers markets for food and other good stuff.

Going to the supermarket in another country is always a rich cultural experience. And I find it helps improve your understanding of the local language. Now don’t think Wal Mart or Safeway here. I am talking about the much more usual small Supermercatos found in every little town and large city in Italy. These stores while small by our standards, are chock full of everything you may need.

Shopping for food in any other country is always fun (I think) and can be a bit confusing. But you have to plunge right in. Now that we are more than halfway through our month stay here in this seaside hamlet in the Salento we have been shopping a lot. We have tried supermercatos in several of the surrounding towns and settled on our favorites. We are becoming known and recognized by the guys behind the meat, cheese and olive counters. And while I always order everything in Italian they don’t expect it to be perfect. But I always get exactly what I wanted so it is working.

Finding what you need may take a bit longer but you do stumble over a lot of interesting products along the way. While the markets in France took the prize for the absolute best vegetables I have seen anywhere, Italy’s are very very good. There is often a person who will handle the vegetables you want and weigh, bag and put the price on them. Or there may be plastic hand covers and bags and you may have to bag them and use a computer scale to price them.

Eggs like most of the world outside of the US and Canada are NOT refrigerated and YES they are fine to eat.

Well after all of that it’s time to check out. Bring your own bag. But they also sell them cheaply. This is where things get interesting as there is so much interaction. But everyone has been patient with us and now that we are up to speed with the process we are not holding anyone up.

Prices for many things we have found to be cheaper in most cases than the US and on some things drastically cheaper. We buy olives in bulk from the big jars behind the case near the meat and cheese section and while these same kinds of olives are about $8.99/lb in the US they are only about $4/lb here (yes I converted it from kilos and Euros). Cheese and wine are the other big bargains. We bought a hunk of Parmigiana Reggiano that weighed more than 1/2 a pound and cost 3.24 Euros or about $3.82. That cheese in the states would have been $10 - $12.

Good wine has been very cheap and much of it very good. You can get a good drinkable bottle for as little as 2 Euros but spending a bit more gets you some pretty good stuff.

This all makes for the wine and antipasti tray we have most every evening as we are waiting for the BBQ to get fired up a real deal and a real learning and cultural experience too.

We have been in Italy since May 9th and this is our 4th Airbnb in the country. While we didnt cook a lot in Rome or Florence or Naples we have done a lot here. We are now in the far south in the Salento, this is the “heel” of the Italian boot and we have a marvelous little 2 bedroom house overlooking the Adriatic. This coast of Italy is stunningly beautiful and lacks the hordes of tourists that infest Amalfi and the Cinque Terre to say nothing of Rome and Florence.

For those of you with more time to spend and want to delve more deeply into the Italian way of life this is a great way to do it and a great part of Italy to do it in.

Posted by
32825 posts

How is Jake doing with the foreign food?

Posted by
3941 posts

We've had some interesting trips to grocery stores. I have a bit of a sweet tooth, so always interesting the see the different types of soda, chips (Crisps), cookies, chocolate bars...Bolognese Lays chips were an interesting find in France. And I think we had orange Coke one time - can't recall where. Or picking up breakfast cereals, yogurts, juice, trying to decipher the milk cartons...I enjoy our forays into the grocery stores.

Posted by
2116 posts

I considered it a small triumph when we went to the COOP in Greve and did our shopping without speaking a word of English.

Posted by
550 posts

Thanks for this great and detailed post! In September, I'll be in Florence for a week on my own in an apartment and plan to do some shopping and cooking there. Your insight is most helpful.

Posted by
8468 posts

aarthurperry, I agree that visiting supermarkets is an interesting way to see what everyday life is in other countries. Its not all 4-star restaurants, artisanal hand-crafted foods, and colorful grandmothers with secret recipes. Noting that stores in Italy do sell jars of red sauce, and French stores have plastic-wrapped bread, puts a different perspective on things.

Posted by
5836 posts

COOP in Asiago was a great insight into local shopping. The cheese counter person would offer samples of the aged cheese and the older cheeses were definitely more flavorful than the younger cheeses. (And Asiago cheese is on a whole different level than Wisconson's "Asiago" cheese).

COOP clerk was also patiently helpful in using my ziplock bag of small denomination Euro coins in paying for my purchase.

Posted by
5538 posts

Going to grocery stores and food markets is one of my favorite things to do while traveling. When I’m staying in a flat, I am perfectly content to have a meal of bread, wine, and cheese. I also love some of the packaging; you can find a lot more food items in a tube in Europe, which I think is brilliant for things like mustard and mayo.

With regard to the unrefrigerated eggs, this article explains why in the U.S. (and a few other countries) we must refrigerate eggs
https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/09/11/336330502/why-the-u-s-chills-its-eggs-and-most-of-the-world-doesnt

Posted by
2304 posts

Hey aarthur
love your post. one of my favorites places to explore when we travel. i browse up every aisle looking for anything to bring home or send to family back in hawaii. great memory i have on first trip ever to rome, never heard of lemonciello, walking thru pantheon there was a tasting in a shop, i probably tasted every brand of it! thank god apartment around corner in piazza navona. shopped at campo de fiori and bought 2 bottles there plus italian shaped pasta and spice packets. nowdays we stop in and buy whatever we find for the appetizer tray with wine, flowers on the table and sit out at terrace or balcony and enjoy.
How's jake and has he taken a dip in the ocean yet? Woof Woof
aloha

Posted by
336 posts

I too love the supermercato experience. We try to hit one daily, even if just for a soda & chips.. Last year we learned to bag and weigh our produce, this year we helped another couple figure it out. I also like going to the laundromats!! Great post, thanks for sharing!!!!

Posted by
7318 posts

I also love to stop into the grocery stores for some picnic foods or apartment meals. Also, we will pick up a few items if we're taking a train the next morning to eat for an early lunch. I enjoy checking the aisles to see the proportions of categories of food. For instance, in the US, an entire aisle will be used for cereal; in many other countries, the breakfast cereal is just 1-2 yards wide. Switzerland had a large area just for jams & coffee. The vegetable/fruits are great to see which ones they favor during that season, and my sweet tooth likes to check out some local candies.

Posted by
5226 posts

Arthur,

We are now in the far south in the Salento, this is the “heel” of the Italian boot and we have a marvelous little 2 bedroom house overlooking the Adriatic.

Sounds lovely!

I also enjoy shopping at the local supermercato on all my travels, even if not staying in an apartment.
In fact, that’s one of my first questions to the hotel staff, or B&B owner, when they hand me the map; “where’s a supermercato nearby?”

I often get food for a picnic lunch, and always buy fruit, and those sweet cherry and picadilly tomatoes!

Thanks for sharing!

Posted by
546 posts

Thanks for all the nice comments. And Jake thanks those of you asking about him.

Jake has had a great time from all the signs I can discern of Pooch Happiness. He travels a lot in the USA with us but here we take him out with us more as he is accepted and welcomed at cafes, bars and restaurants everywhere. Most of the time the restaurant will bring him a small dish of water and after a drink he lays down to wait patiently for the waiter to bring him something delicious.

Nigel asked how Jake was doing on foreign food. I am not sure if you mean the dog food or the table stuff he may get. Either one he loves it. Of course Jake grew up in Cambodia where I got him as a puppy so he ate mostly fish heads and tails and rice then. My staff spoiled him terribly and bought fish just for him. Now he loves the juice from the tuna fish can which gets poured over his dog food. The other night I BBQ’d a big fish here and he got that head so he is in dog heaven.

In Naples Jake was walking along with me down a busy street near the railway station and found an ICE CREAM CONE! Abandoned on the sidewalk. He is lightning fast at times like that and had some down before I could react. He has found his version of European street food to be wonderful. There was a lot of it in Paris and especially in Naples.

Jake has been to the beach but has resisted the water at my suggestion so far. He wont go in unless I do. But he digs a big hole in the sand under the umbrella and lays down in the cool dampness of that turned up sand....he loves that.

@Stan...Yes I agree with your remarks. It isn’t quite the same as what one sees on the TV or the travel Mags for sure. But where we have 25 yards of cereal in the store, here there is an inordinate amount and choice of tomato sauce. Not the prepared pasta sauce which is here for sure but in much smaller quantities. But pure jars of tomato sauce. Of course I am in far southern Italy which makes a difference too.

One great thing here is the amazing diversity of Pasta that is available in the supermarket. I love Pasta and love fixing it in new ways. The other night I made some spaghetti with fresh cherry tomatoes and asparagus.

For two Saturdays now we have been going to the Farmers Market that is held in the nearby small town of Gagliano del Capo. It is a great market with every kind of food imaginable, clothes, dishes you name it it’s there. They have these huge trucks that turn into mobile butcher shops with coolers and rotisserie’s and big huge display cases. Other big trucks are fitted out for seafood and cheese. The Egg man is there and lots of Italians enjoying their Saturday shopping catching up with neighbors and buying food. this is where your Italian is tested. But maybe not so surprisingly we have encountered a few sellers who spoke English.

It is notable here because we rarely encounter another non-Italian tourist unless we go to one of the bigger towns like Santa Maria di Leuca or Otranto or Lecce. And even there we are few and far between.
Thanks again for all the nice comments.

Posted by
1949 posts

Last two trips, we've rented apartments in Florence and Rome. In Florence, the tiny-but-jampacked CONAD grocery near the SMN station yielded some great stuff. In Rome, just off the Campo de' Fiori piazza was a nondescript Express grocery that was anything but. Maybe 25 feet across but at least 250 feet deep, there was a stone wine cellar and a deli counter to die for, with no less than 10 different kinds of prosciutto and speck. Made our stay at our apartment only steps away wonderful indeed.

One tip. If you desire American-style coffee to sip with breakfast (even I get tired of espresso all the time, for me in the early morning it's a 30-second quick downing at the local tabacchi shop, in the afternoon it's more of a pick-me-up while wandering around) we made sure the apartments had something to heat water, and we brought with us a Melitta plastic cone filter, along with some paper sleeves to fit inside. Bought a shrink-wrapped package of Lavazza breakfast blend (or something similar, still plenty strong) at the grocery for 1,20 Euro, and we had our morning coffee for the week. A beautiful thing.

Posted by
3127 posts

I/we always stay in apartments; and I just love grocery shopping in Italy or France or the UK.
Lots of stuff to bring home in there too; such as spices, chocolate, soap.
If someone is new to grocery stores in Italy; you may think the shop front holds only a tiny shop inside; but be prepared for a very big area with many aisles: a great surprise!

Posted by
7737 posts

One of my former Italian instructors heavily stressed the importance of NEVER touching any produce in Italy with your bare hands. This was true even for those items that will be peeled, such as oranges or bananas. She said it was because all the produce had been washed and touching it would contaminate it.

Posted by
7049 posts

The above comment sounds like it's from the Onion. I don't remember seeing outdoor market produce sellers anywhere (Italy and elsewhere) wearing gloves when handling fruits and veggies, and I don't remember all fruit and veggies being thoroughly washed either (some have dirt and roots attached). At the same time, produce sellers handle lots of bills and coins which aren't exactly clean. So if they handle your stuff with their bare (and sometimes unclean) hands or dirty gloves, how is that any better? And, even assuming it's "contaminated", all you have to do is wash it off again when you get home. Does anyone really wash bananas or oranges? I understand why they don't want you to squeeze or drop the produce, but it's not for reasons of contamination.