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Italian riviera/Sestri/Levanto - how is beach & water quality/crowds (late June)!

Hi, we're a 50s couple torn between Sestri Levante and Levanto (and similar nearby) for late June/early July and am seeking personal experience. They both look perfect for colour, romance, charm, laidback-ness, train access, C Terre access and facitilties, but I'm seeing REALLY conflicting reviews on various threads re the beaches, especially about Sestri Levante, and it's hard to know what to believe.

The reviews for the latter seem worse in 2024/2025. Some shocking comments about the water (and crowds) at Bay of Silence (and negative comments about the whole sunbed palaver on the other main beach) , are holding me back from booking . Yet other reviews simply say you have to swim a bit further out to get to clear water and people don't seem bothered.

We're not strong swimmers. Seeking informal or main beaches with shallow waters (not swimming out of our depth) where we can relax and not worry about sewage/condoms/litter we're hearing about...

What's the reality in late June? Were those people just unlucky or is it an increasing trend?

As well as old town strolling, stunning views, boat trips and plenty of great eateries, we're seeking sandy beaches for just a handful of days within a fortnight's holiday where we can find a space late morning without fighting crowds and without seeing dirty water!

Recent trips have been to all Italian lakes, stunning and clean, but too rocky/pebbly for comfort and entering the water easily, even with shoes. Hence the shift to the rivieria.

Happy to consider Levanto instead, but isn't Sestri's unique double-bay shape prettier/more charming and picturesque?
(Don't mind gentle hills but not after steep climbs. )

Happy to consider Bonassola, but would it lack comparable facilities and eateries for evening? Or Monteresso, but wouldn't that be heaving by then?

We don't mind it being touristy in feel (think Ascona, Malcesine. Mennagio in late June/early July were all fine) but keen to avoid ridiculous crowds wherever we turn - we want to feel that we're relaxing. The informal strips of public beach at Malcesine were good for that with top views and a few sunbeds if you needed - sunbeds not essential but nice to sometimes have the option.

It's a massive decision, especially as we'd be coming from London by train (not keen flyers) and so after several connections over 1.5 days, we want to be able to relax easily... and to find find walkable quieter pockets here and there as well as main beaches.

Thanks everyone! I'll keep researching, but your views (given all this info above) would be most welcome.

Posted by
1906 posts

Water quality will be fine in Levanto and most of Sestri Levante except perhaps the Baia di Silenzio which has a narrow beach and sheltered water. You might also look at Moneglia which has good water quality, lots of beach and a nice old italy atmosphere. For water quality, look at the individual beach listings by town on the Banda Blu organization website which has very strict standards for listing - much more reliable than a random review by grumpy Magda from Milan.

https://www.bandierablu.org/common/blueflag.asp?anno=2025&tipo=bb

Posted by
50 posts

Thank you. Just looking at the pics (one main beach only?) and descriptions, Moneglia feels quite a bit smaller than we'd like for ambience and eateries etc. - both Sestri L and Malcesine are ideal sizes - but i appreciate the perspective. Any other suggestions welcome.

If i hadn't read the very real comments about the state of the water/beach in S L , I'm sure I'd have booked it by now, as it looks so perfect as a setting! I know there are grumpy people, but there were a few in this case.

Looks hard to get the balance right . We've loved the charming Swiss/Italian lakeside towns so much, but the rockiness/pebble factor has been a downside, as you just want to fully relax on a beach sometimes and laze in the shallow water!

Posted by
17293 posts

Liguria is neither Sardinia nor the Salento (Puglia), so you need to compromise.

It’s a very mountainous region, therefore beaches will be at best somewhat pebbly, if not outright cliffs, and the water depth drops very quickly in most places. Water quality is way better near rocks and cliffs, but in that case depth drops even more quickly. At that time of the year that sea shouldn’t be rough, but nevertheless you need to be a confident swimmer who can deal with waters deeper than your height.

The Baia delle Favole in Sestri has a larger beach than the Baia del Silenzio. I think the water is a bit cleaner there, since the baia del silenzio is more enclosed and has more boats. Neither is the Bahamas.

I like Moneglia, where I spent many summers in youth. It’s a smaller and more secluded village, which I like, the water quality is similar to Sestri, and since there is a rock barrier, the water is safer for non swimmers or kids. I preferred to stay near the cliffs in the western side of the beach because the water quality near rocks is always better. The water is not that deep anyhow.

At the Cinque Terre the only beach option is Monterosso. I used to go there often as well. I preferred to stay near the “scoglio” (big rock) on the East side of the Fegina beach, as the water was cleaner also. The beach is also similarly pebbly, but the depth drops quickly near the rock. But even away from the rock, a few yards to the west, in front of the train station, you won’t be able to walk 10-15 feet from the shore and already you will be unable to touch the bottom with your feet. Hopefully you are a swimmer confident enough to be able to deal with that, especially with calm waters.

I’ve been to Levanto but never stayed at that beach, but it’s probably similar to the Fegina beach.

Posted by
50 posts

Thanks for that detail/ All very useful. Not confident swimmers and prefer to stay in shallow water and be able to just walk in. I realise you can't have it all! Maybe Sestri L waters are not so awful, but it's hard to ignore the very specific negative comments!

Looked at Lazise on Garda, but no dramatic scenery compared to the North end.

So...starting to veer back towards Switzerland and Austria, but those lakes are COLD, and from experience in both in late June, the weather isn't a reliable mid 20s that we'd favour! Or we go the other way and head to unknown (to us) Corisca and Sardinia for the sand and scenery, but that's a way longer train/boat journey via Nice or Genoa from London!

Looked at Istria too, but again, hardly any sand! Thanks all - more thoughts welcome if you have the energy - I'm stuck!

Posted by
17293 posts

If you go to Sardinia (or Corsica), fly. Unless you drive your own car from the UK. I think that compared to lake Garda (or any lake) even a sewer in Sestri or Cinque Terre, has better water.

Posted by
50 posts

Thanks. As i mentioned, we're not keen flyers. So easy train access from London is vital.
If we were to fly, that opens up the whole world! But train in 1.5 days is the aim for this trip.

Has anyone been to Velden on Worthersee, Austria?!!