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Italian Riviera

We are going to Italy in early to mid June. We want to do something along the Riviera but I was thinking we would skip the Cinque Terre. (We typically try to avoid really crowded areas and I was discouraged by the crowd tips and cruise ship groups.) What is your favorite town? I was intrigued by staying in Santa Margherita Ligure and hiking to Portofino. But it might also be fun to stay in Levanto and bike to Bonassola. We have two kids (ages 8 and 10) and like to hike and be outdoors.

Posted by
5687 posts

Santa Margherita Ligure is a lovely town. I visited for a few hours in May while staying three nights in nearby Camogli (which I loved). I didn't hike to Portofino - I took a boat through Portofino on to SML from San Fruttuoso (after hiking there from Camogli, a moderate to difficult hike). I would expect SML to be somewhat busy too by mid-June, even if not as bad as the Cinque Terre towns. Camogli is smaller than SML and less touristy, except for Italian tourists who apparently visit in the summer. In May none of these towns seemed very busy.

I also wouldn't expect Levanto to be tourist-free in June, and you aren't really "skipping the Cinque Terre" if you visit Levanto, which is part of the same national park area. Levanto is a nice town - I've stayed there twice, and it makes a very convenient gateway to the five villages, but lots of people stay there when the five villages get booked up or too expensive, and mid-June isn't exactly low season in the area. I haven't done any bike rides from Levanto.

Posted by
32198 posts

I've never stayed in Santa Margherita Ligure but have been there. It's a bit larger than the towns of the Cinque Terre and I suspect it's also going to be quite busy with tourists in June. Portofino is nice to see once, but it's only good for a few hours.

Levanto will probably also be somewhat busy then, but not as busy as the five Cinque Terre towns and it also has a large beach. The station in Levanto is about a 10-15 minute walk from the main part of town, but it's not a difficult walk. The trails from Levanto to Bonassola through the old railway tunnels are an easy trip, whether walking or using a bike.

There's also a hiking trail from Levanto to Monterosso, should you feel energetic.

The Cinque Terre towns tend to be most crowded from about 10:00 - 16:00, but the crowds subside in the evening once the day trippers have departed. If staying in Levanto, it's very easy to go to one of the towns for dinner as it only takes a few minutes by train. For example, the Levanto - Monterosso trip is only about five minutes.

Posted by
744 posts

Last summer we stayed in Santa Margherita Ligure. We enjoyed walking the "red carpet" from SML to Portofino. Also, took an easy day trip to Camogli by bus. All three places were lively but not crowded. SML is the biggest of the three. I'm thinking that Camogli might be fun for the kids because it has a big beach with lots of Italian families.