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Islands, Spello, Verona, Rome

Hello,
Looking for feedback on this itinerary. My husband, nearly 10 year old son and I will be traveling to Italy for our 2nd time, June 13-July 4. Flights are in and out of Rome and are already booked. (Was much cheaper than doing open jaw out of another city.) We love architecture, great food, hiking, ocean/islands/beach time, medieval villages, history, castles.

Fly into Rome, June 13. Arrive at 9:40 am. Travel to first destination (Ischia or Minori).
Ischia or Minori (4 nights).
If we choose Ischia: will stay in Ischia Ponte. Want to see the Aragonese castle, Negombo thermal spa and beach area,
Mortella botanical garden, Sant Angelo and Forio. There is a festival in Forio called the San Vito Festival that should be happening while we are there.
If we choose Minori: will hike to Ravello, hike the path of the Lemons, and do a boat/snorkeling trip to see the Amalfi coast from the water. No big desire to step foot in Positano or Amalfi, with the expected crowds.
Ponza (4 nights); our final day in Ponza is the Festa di San Silverio for their patron saint. Ponza will be about beach time, taking a boat tour, and relaxing.
Spello (5 nights), will be there for the Infiorata. Will also go to Assisi, Bevagna for the Bevagna Gaite (medieval celebration/festival), and maybe try to see the flowering lentils at Castelluccio/ Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini, maybe Frasassi Caves.
Verona (4 nights); will probably do a day trip to Sirmione; possible day trip to Venice. (We went there last year and loved it. Saw many of the major sights last year, so if we day trip there, it would be mostly to wander/get lost, enjoy some piazza time and the beauty of Venice.)
Rome (4 nights); thankfully there are no Jubilee events on the Jubilee calendar for the dates we are there. I realize it will still be crowded and hot, unfortunately. I have an apartment booked with a pool.

I'd appreciate any feedback or ideas. Especially regarding the first 4 nights (would you recommend Ischia or Minori?) We are leaning toward Ischia but one thing I don't like about that option is the transportation between Ischia and Ponza. (I think we'd have to take a ferry twice that day...once from Ischia to Naples, then train to Anzio or Formia to catch another ferry to Ponza.) One other idea for the 1st 4 nights of the trip could be Orvieto (3 nights), then add another night to Ponza to make it a 5 night stay instead of a 4 night stay.
Any thoughts are much appreciated.

Posted by
1242 posts

You certainly are covering a lot of ground but you're spending good amounts of time places.

I can only help out in detail about Verona. Stay in old city center "Città Antica" which is based on the old Roman city in the bend of the river. The Veronetta neighborhood - north of Via Gaetano Trezza - across the river is nice as well. If your concentration is on Verona then stay in the city and grab a 2e bus or a 10e cab to train station as needed. There is a taxi stand in Piazza Erbe if you want to cab back to the station. I've had good luck with the AppTaxi app for getting cabs in northern Italy.

Verona is a chic, mostly pedestrian, cafe culture like city the bend of the river centered around the old Roman core that feels smaller (to the tourist) than it's size would suggest. It has an intact Roman Arena, Theater which are still used for music with music and opera being a big part of the city's summer schedule. If you like modern art check out the small Palazzo Maffei Casa Museo which mixes ancient and modern art, a palazzo and rooftop tour all into one place overlooking piazza Erbe and is underadvertised. I think Piazza Erbe (looking past the market stands) is one of the prettiest piazzas in Italy. Verona has the 'elegant decay' feeling with faded murals on medieval buildings that the Veneto does so well.

Al Grottino - Osteria e Sbecoleria is a great hole in the wall place off Piazza Erbe for a drink and cicchetti. Cafe Monte Baldo nearby also has great cicchetti and more serious food if you want that. Right near the cafe there is Arcivio a super small, super hip cocktail bar. There is no lack of good restaurants in Verona but read the menu carefully at the older places because the cuisine can be very traditional.

If you want to get off the tourist trail I would also suggest Brescia as a day trip from Verona - especially if you like Roman ruins since they have some amazing ones. Upper Lake Garda is reachable by bus from Verona. The lowest part of the lake is accesible by train but because of that is very touristy. For Palladian architecture fans Vicenza is very close. Venice is easily reachable by fast train and I will always go to Venice.

Hope that helps, have a great trip!
=Tod

Posted by
11858 posts

All great choices and you have researched what you want to do. Brava for having stays giving you enough time to really enjoy.

Take a look at your travel times using the Trenitalia site. You have a couple of long transfers and that might cause you to rethink your itinerary. Ponza to Spello would be via Naples so ferry to Naples then a minimum 4 hour trip by train to Spello. Spello to Verona is a minimum train trip of 5 hours. Do you want those long transfers? Given the transit times, Verona seems like an outlier. And it will be HOT.