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Is the smell of wood smoke from restaurants disappearing in Italy?

I was imprinted in the early 1970's with the fragrant smell of wood smoke used by homes and restaurants to prepare food and wonder if there's a way to better define these location today? Have modern appliances or civil codes pushed out this way of cooking? Are there still areas where it's more prevalent than in others? It use to be everywhere. I am planning on a 6-week visit, one town for each week, and would really like to spend my time in the less sophisticated and more earthy towns.

If anyone has the same memories or can relate to the earthy side of travel, please offer any comments!

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Oh, boy! Thank you for that! I will check it out!