We are supposed to go to CT in early July. Should we skip CT since most of the trails between towns are closed according to the Save Vernazza website?? Is there enough to do in Monterosso where we are staying to make it worthwhile for 2 days and nights since only 1 lower trail from Monterosso to Vernazza is open? We are not big hikers and the easier trails are the ones that we had intended to do. I know you can still take the boat, so that would be something else to do.
Personally I though CT was rather boring. We stayed in Monterosso for 2 or 3 nights and took the boat over to Corniglia (I think) and hiked back to Vernazza. It was a nice hike, but there are very steep sections so make sure you are sure footed. It would be better if you had some sort of good hiking shoes to make your trek a little easier because this is not just a leisurely stroll. I just took an old pair of tennis shoes (bad idea) and threw them away at the end. It had been raining and my shoes were caked with mud. When we got to Vernazza it was packed with mobs of people (tourists). The restaurant where we ate lunch was a RS recommended one, and they really really really DID NOT want us there. Don't know why, but they reluctantly served us.
For history - Italy can't be beat. For amazing natural beauty - Switzerland is the place to be. I was bored in CT, but I know there are others who love it.
I want to jump in here and mention that the Italian section of Switzerland in absolutely GORGEOUS. Of course, all of Switzerland is amazing but if you are staying in Italy and can escape for a day or two in Switzerland I highly recommend it. The trains are beautiful, run on time and you can see a lot in a short amount of time.
Oh gosh, I loved CT. I have only been once, last May about this time and stayed 2 nights on the Rick Steves' Heart of Italy tour. I did not hike as I was pooped. On the free day we had, I did not even leave Monterosso. I shopped a little, mostly just to walk thru the old town, had a really long lunch at one of the sidewalk cafes overlooking the sea, sat at a table outside my hotel people watching and looking at the water. I had taken the ferry the afternoon we got there down to Rio Maggiore and took the train back so saw the other towns from the vantage of the water. If I had been more energetic I would have trained to the other towns.
I'm going back in the Fall, probably won't hike as my nephews who did said they did not think I would enjoy it as the cliffs are pretty sheer and I am a big chicken.
BTW, I am usually not a sit and do nothing vacationer and am way past being a beach person. I found Monterosso quite charming and could have enjoyed another full day there.
You should do what you think you will enjoy.
CT is worth the trip. If you just want to see the towns a day or two is plenty. The train makes it easy between towns. However, if you just want to relax or spend some time on the beach spend more time. But just for touring two days and one night is fine.
I think the Cinque Terre is interesting, even though not all of the trails are open. Actually, most of the trails are still open, including both the Monterosso-Vernazza portion as well as the Vernazza-Corniglia portion. Only the southern two of the popular Sentiero Azzurro trails are closed. Many of the other trails that extend further up into the hills are still open, which you can note on THIS website. As you're not "big hikers", hiking the two that are open would probably be more than sufficient.
You could (for example) hike from Monterosso to Corniglia, take the train from there to Riomaggiore and then return to Monterosso by boat from there. If you don't want to hike at all, use the trains to explore the five towns and then return to your starting point by boat. It will be crowded in July, but you'll still be able to enjoy the wonderful food and ambience, and the towns become quieter at night.
They are very pretty and unique. Nothing of that sort exists in North America. Hiking is not necessary, certainly not to the full extent of a trail since it might take hours and some are challenging if you are not a fit hiker. If you don't want to hike, you could visit a town or two, have a nice seafood lunch and spend the rest of the day at the beach in Monterosso. You could also take a boat trip from one end to the other then return by train. Monterosso has the most restaurants and amenities (and a nice beach). I consider Riomaggiore prettier than Vernazza, but Rick Steves is fixated with Vernazza. You should not spend more than one full day (2 nights max) if you fear you might get bored. I've never spent a night in a hotel there, but I've slept on the ground in a sleeping bag in Riomaggiore more than once.
The comparison with Switzerland is not appropriate. It's two totally different environments and people don't go to the Cinque Terre for love of nature. People go there to admire the impact of man on nature, building villages and terraced vineyards in the most unlikely place. If you are looking for rugged nature you can go to Yellostone or Alaska. No need to cross the Atlantic.
We loved CT and didn't hike at all! We found it to be a relaxing, quasi-tropical place and you can be as busy or chill as you like. We had two full days plus an evening and thought it was perfect. We went to the various towns in the morning, came back to Monterosso in the afternoon to she, go to the beach and read,and visit an enoteca. It was our "break" between Venice and Florence-- we'll definitely go back!