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Is 2 weeks to stay in Montepluciano without a car?

My wife hates to fly but has agreed to spend 10-14 days in Tuscany in early October 2018. We're really looking for a relaxing trip, not running around a lot (which is what I normally make her do when we visit a city). So I'm thinking rent an apartment in one of the small hill towns (Cortona, Montepluciano). We don't want to rent a car so if anything, we'd like to hire a private driver for a day at a time but for the most part, we'd like to stroll the town, taste some good wine, cook many of our own meals, and enjoy our time living as much like a local as we can. My questions are: Will we go nuts in one of those towns for that long or would there be plenty to do - we love to walk and would probably walk about 5 miles a day without even trying. Or, should we look at something more like Sienna or Florence for that long? Can you give me an idea of what a driver for a day might cost? Also, what does a good bottle of everyday red wine cost in one of those towns? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Posted by
11613 posts

Two weeks in Montepulciano seems like a lot. I would choose Siena or Furenze, which has better bus/train connections for daytrips to other cities. If you want a wine tour, there are some good ones from either city. Be sure to visit Montalcino for the Brunello.

Good wine anywhere from €10-€70 per bottle (or less for a carafe of house wine).

Posted by
1832 posts

Would definitely be too long for me without a car.
What is the big hesitation about renting a car? Driving around this area is no different really than driving in the US countryside.

Posted by
3112 posts

Without a car, 10-14 days in Montepulciano or Cortona would be too much for me. Both towns are rather small. With a car, either would be fine. If you don't want to rent a car, Siena would be a better choice. It's small enough to be relaxing but has good public transit connections (train and bus). Pick a location just outside the main tourist areas.

There are very good wines available for under 10 euro (e.g. Remole, Frescobaldi's tuscan red). For 10-15 euro you can get many excellent wines (e.g. Rosso di Montalcino or Vino Nobile di Montepulcinao). No need to spend much more unless you want to try a super tuscan or a brunello, or maybe an amarone from the Veneto.

Posted by
372 posts

I have stayed in both Cortona and Montepulciano, but with a car. Fourteen days would be too long not to enjoy the many other areas that is Tuscany. So, if you don't want to drive a car (personally I think they are headaches with not just the driving, ZTL's and speed cameras, but also the parking), try another town with good bus and train connections such as Siena, as Zoe said. Also, don't rule out Florence as your hub due to their extensive bus/train connections. There are many tour buses that center out of Florence if you actually run out of stuff to do. Our visit 4 weeks ago, we stayed in a convent in Florence for the second time (message me if you need more info) that was very close to the Duomo and took a bus to Fiesole. We have also been to the American Cemetery 7 miles outside of Florence (think Arlington Natl Cemetery with rolling hills, cypress and umbrella pines). the train from Florence could get you to Cortona in less than 2 hours or Pisa in less than 2 hours (opposite directions). You could go to the coastline from Florence or to Bologna, Verona, etc. Good luck because there are so many magnificent places to visit, deciding where is always the toughest part!

Posted by
5664 posts

I agree that 2 weeks in a small hill town is too much without your own transportation. We had no problems driving ourselves, but it isn't for everyone. I agree that basing yourself in a larger center like Florence or Siena might be better for you. Italy has insanely inexpensive train and bus fares, and these towns have good connections to the smaller towns for day trips. Or you could do a bus day tour if you want to try some wine tastings. Even these larger towns can be as laid back as you like. There's no rule that says you have to hit every museum, church, and palace in sight.

Posted by
261 posts

10-14 days in Montepulciano would not be too much for me. The city has a fascinating history. It's a great town for walkers and hikers, and very popular among that group. I've met several hiking couples who visit every year for a week or more, and some do not rent cars.

Montepulciano offers numerous perches to take in spectacular views on all sides. I'm talking serious postcard views. There are plenty of restaurants to try, a really good one near its base. Superior wines and tastings are abundant. Breakfast every morning at Caffè Poliziano, where they bake their own pastries on-premises, would do me just fine.

However, there are so many wonderful places to visit within a thirty-minute radius, I'd hate to be without a car.

You can find full-day (8 hr) tours with driver in Tuscany for €350. You can get your own rental car for as low as $25-a-day, maybe lower if you know how to drive a manual. Several major rental car companies have offices in Chiusi, which is only thirty-minutes by car from Montepulciano, and the drive is fairly ordinary. A lot of people take the Regionale train from Rome to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme; one-hour, forty minutes, €9.95 a ticket.

Sounds like a great trip to me. Let us know if you need more help deciding.

Posted by
16210 posts

I’d split my stay between Florence and Siena, especially if you don’t plan to rent a car.
If you rent a car, then you can stay in a small town.
Florence needs at least 2 full days. But Florence is a good base for day trips to:
Arezzo, Cortona, Chianti Hills, Cortona, Lucca, Pisa, Pistoia, et al.
Siena needs a day. Siena is a good base for day trips to:
San Gimignano, Monteriggioni, Chianti Hills, Montepulciano, Pienza, Montalcino, Buonconvento, Val D’Orcia, et. al.
Volterra is hard to reach from either, unless you have a car.

The cost of a “noleggio con conducente” (hired car with driver) is at least 30€/hour plus about 0.80€ per km (with the first 100km generally included). For a 8hr deal for a car with a driver you should expect to pay about 350€.
Wine ranges from about 2€ to 15€ for a bottle in a supermarket. But obviously you can find more expensive ones.

Posted by
2333 posts

It's possible to visit other towns in Tuscany by bus from Montepulciano. My recollection is that we went to Pienza, San Quirico d'Orcia and others. You might want to take a look at the bus schedules before you decide, but do know that this is a viable option to see some gorgeous countryside and lovely towns without having to rent a car. (And in our case, even in our budget lodging in Montepulciano, we had a room with a fabulous view.)

Posted by
8687 posts

We have spent two weeks in Montepulciano with a car and loved it; it is a great base, but I would never chose that without a car. Bus travel in Tuscany is designed for workers and school kids and is very awkward for tourists. Trains don't go to hill towns.

I would stay in an area with better connections; Florence for sure, or Sienna which is not as well connected but does have a train station and some good bus connections.

Posted by
189 posts

We spent two weeks just outside of Montepulciano. It's a great town but I wouldn't want to be there two weeks without a car. Some of the best of Tuscany is driving the back roads and enjoying the scenery, the sheep dogs watching over the sheep, etc.

Posted by
1814 posts

Most of the cities mentioned here as alternatives are heavy with tourists - heck, you'll have trouble finding a local in the center of Florence. Consider Arezzo - it has an old center, modest tourist presence, and is well located for excursions.

Posted by
124 posts

We have just returned from Tuscany 3 weeks ago. I feel two weeks in any hill town especially without a car may be too much.
An agriturismo in Tuscany as a home base with parking and most hill towns an hour away is a great resource. We rented a car and found very little traffic on the roads. It was a benefit to have a rental and go where ever and whenever you wish.
Good wine could be purchased for 10 Euro. Some Brunello and Rosso Nobile were in the 25 to 40 Euro range. You could certainly can spend more if you wish.
Good Luck

Posted by
2023 posts

Agree with the many comments regarding two weeks in the same location--especially without a car. Driving is not a problem in Tuscany. But on a positive note I remember shopping at a fair sized COOP supermarket in Montelpulciano so you would be able to get needed supplies. And that town has great wine shops.

Posted by
1825 posts

I've spent several nights in Montepulciano over two visits but wouldn't stay without a car for more than three days. You will be relying on small food shops that cater to tourist buying souvenirs without easy access to a Coop or grocery store and/or the weekly market. Your five miles of walking will be up and down steep hills. Siena would be a better choice but for me...I'd head to Beaune in France.
The Rosso at Contucci is 9 euro.

Posted by
261 posts

"I remember shopping at a fair sized COOP supermarket in Montelpulciano"

You must be thinking of somewhere else.

The large grocery store in Montepulciano is Conad on Via Elio Bernabei. The location (with adjacent parking garage) is outside the northern wall. It's not in the city-center. Conad is about three-quarters of a mile from Piazza Grande, but the walk would most likely not be flat.

The nearest Coop is on Via della Pace in Chianciano Terme, about 15 minutes south by car from Piazza Grande. You wouldn't walk to it.

There are smaller, family-run grocery/supply stores in the city-center. Finding food or supplies is not difficult once you ask a local where to go.

Posted by
2 posts

Wow! Thanks to all of you for the quick replies! Sounds like Sienna or Arezzo might be a better base and a car isn't out of the question entirely...mainly a compromise on my part to insure that I don't run my wife ragged! As the plans progress, I'll be sure to ask my questions here! Thanks again to all!

Posted by
4 posts

Montalcino is my home base in the hilltowns and has wonderful restaurants, great wine, history...and a COOP ( see previous comments). However I’d certainly want to be inside city walls for easy access to everything. Parking is always an issue in any of these small towns. However 2weeks is a bit long and a car is essential. Some rental properties have attached small garages so be sure to ask. I’ve found drives are more like 50€/hour and the rate of 350€/day about right. Guides vary in skills but I’ve found all very reliable and professional. Most I’ve dealt with have large vehicles/vans which is a bit much for 2. Rent a car. Drive. Get lost. Turn back on GPS and drive “home”. Part of the journey

Posted by
2214 posts

Since a car is not off the table, I suggest you consider it. If you plan to stay in a big town like Siena or Florence, don't rent a car. However, if you plan to stay in a smaller town or the countryside, a car would be wonderful!

If you choose the right location, just about everything in Tuscany is an hour or less drive. If you choose a place on or near a bus route, then you can use the bus to get to locations such as Florence where a car would be an extra burden.

We rented a car and stayed in an agriturismo just outside Greve. From there we drove to Montepulciano, Siena, Volterra, Radda and San Gimignano. With the length of your stay you could choose to take a day trip to Pisa/Lucca and Assisi/Cortona. We took the bus to Florence at the suggestion of our friends at the agriturismo. We could also pop down to Greve for dinner and to explore, although there's not much to Greve.

Check for festivals for next October. That's the harvest season and there's a bunch of festivals in the region. Having a car to explore them would make the rental worthwhile.

Driving in Tuscany is easy if you do a little research ahead of time. ZTL's are clearly marked, although it is helpful to check maps of towns before heading out. You won't see traffic cops, but their automated speed systems will check your speed. Drive the speed limit, also clearly marked, and you'll be fine. If a local is in a hurry, just pull over and let them by. I did a few times, but the tales of crazy Italian drivers is out of date (at least for the countryside). We planned our trip to arrive at towns early and didn't have a problem finding parking.

With a car (and some self control) you can pace your trip just like you want. We took a down day and stayed at our agriturismo to take advantage of their tour of the winery and their food and wine pairing. We also left some time open, with no schedule. It was fun just to head out and explore, knowing we could spend as little or as much time as we chose at whatever we stumbled across.

Posted by
28453 posts

Use ViaMichelin to check projected driving times (thought to be a bit optimistic) to the towns you know you want to visit before settling on your base. I have a feeling you'll find Arezzo not quite central enough. It is an interesting place, though. I was lucky to stumble on its monthly antique market, which is a pretty big deal. I think the market will be held on October 6-7, 2018. Online information states that it falls on "the first Sunday of the month and the preceding Saturday".